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Yarra valley
Part of the Port Philip zone which surrounds Melbourne, the Yarra Valley is located an hour outside Melbourne and is one of the most important fine wine growing regions in Australia. The Yarra Valley’s viticultural history extends back to 1838 when the Ryrie Brothers planted the first vineyards at what is now Yering Station, with the first vintage produced in 1845 by the legendary James Dardel. In 1863 Hubert de Castella established St Huberts Vineyards and Guillaume de Pury established Yeringberg, bringing the total area under vine to 430 acres. This trend continued with the establishment of Yeringa with David Mitchell planting vineyards at Stringybark Creek increasing the area under vine to 1000 acres. This period of growth was followed by a series of poor vintages and tough economic conditions which saw vineyard production completely cease by 1937.
The Yarra Valley’s modern renaissance began when Reg Egan planted Wantirna Estate in 1963 and was followed in the late 1960s and early 1970s by Mount Mary, Yeringberg, Yarra Yering, St Huberts, Seville Estate, Yarra Burn, Chateaux Yeringa (now de Bortoli) and others, From the this period through to the late 1990’s investment and expansion continued, with the majority of wineries small, quality conscious, boutique producers of top quality wine which fetched appropriate prices. The latter period of the 1990’s saw large scale corporate investment, with Moet & Chandon establishing Domaine Chandon alongside acquisitions by Mildara Blass, McWilliams, Hardys and others.
The Yarra Valley is a diverse and cool climate region with a lower average growing temperature than both Bordeaux and Burgundy, the principle white variety is Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, while the red varieties that the region is renowned for are Cabernet Sauvignon (with associated Bordeaux varieties of Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc) which helped put the Yarra Valley on the map followed by Pinot Noir which arrived en masse in the 1980s and followed more recently by Shiraz (which is sometimes blended with Viognier). Both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are also cultivated as sparkling base. Interestingly, vineyards planted in the cool, upper Yarra Valley for the production of sparkling wine are now being used for table wines. Whether it’s global warming or just that recent vintages have been warmer, there is little doubt that the Upper Yarra including places such as Hoddles Creek and other sub-districts such as Woori Yallock have really come into their own over the last 5-10 years.
Chardonnay styles vary across winemakers and site, with a distinctive aromatic profile of melon and fig in warmer sites and white peach and grapefruit from cooler vineyards. Both styles are characterised by good acidity. Outstanding producers include Oakridge, Toolangi, Coldstream Hills, de Bortoli, Giant Steps, Mac Forbes and Hoddles Creek. The Yarra Valley is one of the first Australian regions to establish Pinot Noir of high regard, with notes of plum, cherry and strawberry and a characteristic underlying sappy acidity and fine soft tannins. Outstanding producers include de Bortoli, Coldstream Hills, Giant Steps and Mount Mary and Wedgetail. Yarra Valley Cabernet is almost always blended with traditional Bordeaux varieties and is characterised as a medium bodied wine, elegant, with notes of cassis, hay, tobacco leaf, fine silky tannins and remarkable longevity. Outstanding producers include Mount Mary, Yarra Yarra, Yeringberg, Wantirna Estate. Shiraz is less prevalent in the Yarra Valley and highly dependent on vineyard location favouring warmer growing conditions. Increasingly producers are following the Northern Rhone Cote Rotie blend by adding small quantities of Viognier for added colour and aromatic lift. Classic Yarra Valley Shiraz is almost always of a cool climate style with notes of pepper, black cherry and spice with fine silky tannins. Outstanding producers include Yering Station, de Bortoli, Jamsheed, Yarra Yarra and recently Serrat.
Sources:
The Oxford Companion to Wine, (ed) Jancis Robinson
James Hallidays Wine Atlas of Australian, James Halliday
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Yeringberg Marsanne Roussanne 2021
62% Marsanne and 38% Roussanne. Vines planted 1973-85. The 2 varieties were picked & made separately, blended just before bottling.”
Apple, lime, apricot, ginger and honey, chamomile tea and cinnamon. It’s nutty and savoury, white fleshed fruit with a juicy peach and apricot richness, dusty and spicy, a fine chalkiness to it, a real white Rhône mouth-perfume about it, honey and almond, with a long rich and grainy finish. Terrific wine. GARY WALSH, The Wine Front
2021Marsanne, RoussaneAustralia506$77.00 As low as $69.30 -
Yeringberg Marsanne Roussanne 2022A blend of 60/40% marsanne/roussanne, picked three days apart, fermented together in tank, then aged in old barrels for 10 months. A bright green gold. Aromas of ripe pears and apricots sit alongside some lemon conserve, pink grapefruit and orange blossom scents. It’s a compelling mix that flows through onto the palate, which is gently textured, saline, and very well structured. I really like the touch of the grip on the finish too, and as good as this is now, this will age gracefully over the next five to seven years at least. (97) PHILIP RICH, www.winecompanion.com2022Marsanne, RoussaneAustralia506$81.00 As low as $72.90
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Yeringberg Marsanne Rousanne 2016Marsanne 59%, Roussanne 41%. Our white Rhône blend is a subtle wine that displays restraint and quiet power. It starts subdued, with hints of pear, honeysuckle, lanolin and quince. With air it expands, building depth and breadth, showing notes of honey, lemon and jasmine. On the palate, it's both taut and well rounded, savoury and subtly pithy, but also spicy and gently viscous. It's a fabulous food wine that manages to complement both delicate and more fully flavoured dishes and, unusually, satisfies both white and red wine drinkers. Full of promise, the 2016 is certainly enjoyable now, and will continue to evolve over a number of years. SANDRA DE PURY
A 59/41% split, spends 10 months on lees in seasoned barrels and it's a mighty wine for its depth and precision. Flavour wise, it's perfectly proportioned with whispers of stone fruit, honeysuckle, creamed honey and fine acidity. 95 points. JAMES HALLIDAY
An exotic nose showing spicy loquat, dried cloves, white peppers, sage, green apple ice cream and even some camembert. Full-bodied and very layered with pears and peach pith, which are really intensely flavored. Long and very spicy on the finish. Drink now. Screw cap. 94 points JAMES SUCKLING2016Marsanne, RoussaneAustralia506$110.00 As low as $99.00