Mixed Dozens

Shadowfax has taken tremendous strides in recent times, with the team refining the range and proving their prowess with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. With long-serving vineyard manager and assistant winemaker Alister Timms taking the helm in October 2017, these are hugely exciting times for Shadowfax and these wines are better then ever.

The aromatics of this Little Hampton Pinot Noir is seductive and engaging. Floral citrus blossom and rose petal waft from the glass, bolstered by blueberries and dark cherry fruits. Further complexities reveal themselves, such as cardamom and sandalwood spice. Mineral aspects including gunpowder and graphite provide intrigue. Given time in the glass the Little Hampton’s signature aromatics intensify and seduce the drinker gracefully.

Blue and black fruit fall immediately onto the palate. Complexed with sandalwood, bramble and some white pepper spice. A focused and mineral core has drive, vibrancy and poise. Fine and lacey tannins frame the complex cardamom spice and subtle fruits. The wine has energy and lift that can only been seen in high altitude, cool climate Pinot Noir. This Little Hampton Pinot noir is uncompromising in its purity and identity.

Old vines, fermented traditionally (no carbonic) and aged in a bunch of old wood. It's pure, energetic and unbelievably slippery. 

Lifted black and red cherry fruit, dark raspberry, mixed ground spice and a pretty lilt to the nose. It at first seems like a combo of the Brouilly and Villages with a lovely mix of dark and light. The palate is snappy and fresh, etched with fine-boned tannin a wonderful and incisive mineral spike. Lots of energy here and a nice burst of mineral fruit at the end that carries the palate along. Great looking Morgon with a fresh, mineral-driven edge.

Trophy – Best Young Red Wine of Show ( the Jimmy Watson )
Trophy – Best Grenache of Show
Royal Melbourne Wine Awards 2022

I tasted again the 2019 Lg. Valbuxan, the new red from Valdeorras named after Lugar de Valbuxan, a place in O Bolo. The wine is aromatic, expressive and with red fruit and notes of wild herbs, juicy and light, with freshness and energy, a young wine. It's very drinkable now. 6,703 bottles produced. It was bottled in May 2021.

Telmo Rodríguez and Pablo Eguzkiza have fermented their 2021s from Galicia in the new winery in Valdeorras, Ribera del Duero. It is still a work in progress, and there will be new stuff from Rioja in a few more years. The main wines across the portfolio feel very consolidated now. LUIS GUITIERREZ, Robert Parker

Musky black currants, smoky crushed stone, wild herbs and hints of pepper create an inviting bouquet as the 2019 Schioppettino RiNera opens in the glass. This is silky yet finessed, with saline-infused acidity and tart wild berry fruits that cascade across the palate. It tapers off spicy and fresh, only lightly structured, and leaves sour blackberries and hints of citrus through the finale. This is a fresh expression of Schioppettino from Ronchi di Cialla which is refined completely in stainless steel after a two-week maceration on the skins. ERIC GUIDO, www.vinousmedia.com

The Prieler estate, in Schützen on the western side of the Lake Neusiedl, is a historic old farm, once dedicated to many types of agriculture but now specializing in grape growing. Two generations of the Prieler family now run the estate: Engelbert and Irmgard, who in 1972 focused the estate on quality production of several grape varieties, mainly blaufränkisch and Burgundian varieties. Their son, Georg, now heads the estate and continues working to best express the unique terroir of the Leithagebirge.

Freshness and elegance on show here rather than power and structure. Currant and cranberry fruit flecked with dark cherry and raspberry throughout. Some ground coffee and pepper spice intrigue. The palate is silky, fresh and playful with  crystalline acidity, supple tannins and a lingering sour cherry aroma on the aromatic close. Such a great example and really makes you wonder why we don't drink more here.

The Peter Zemmer 2019 Alto Adige Pinot Bianco (with 25,000 bottles made) opens to delicate but steady intensity, blossoming in slow motion before the senses. It shows classic varietal tones of quince, pear, white peach and tangy citrus that is carefully measured against those more neutral fruit flavors. A pretty mineral signature gives the wine linearity and a brilliant sense of clarity. Alto Adige Pinot Bianco is one of the great white wines of Italy, and it shows even at this extremely affordable price point. MONICA LARNER, The Wine Advocate

We were umming and oohing the whole time when trying this wine. Something really unique and special from the hills of the Vale de Osta. A refreshing blend of native varieties Petite Arvine, Prié Blanc and Müller-Thurgau, with Pinot Grigio and Chardonnay.

The interplay of ripe, sometimes tropical sometimes citrus infused fruit is so lovely. High-tone white florals amble through and weave themselves among the fruit.  A seam of quartzy minerality pulls this together tightly allowing the fleshy and sun drenched fruit salad of flavour to shine. It's pure and crystalline but has a lovely gentle and giving warmth at the same time. It really is a sublime combo of vivid flavours, shimmering minerality and mellow white and golden fruits. Delicious

The Correggia family are a small yet formidable force in the sandy soils of Roero, just west of the Tanaro River in Piedmont. After the tragic death of her husband, Ornella with help from friends propelled the wines of Matteo Correggia to even greater heights. She is now flanked by her children Giovanni and Brigitta and the wines have never looked better.
Fragrant aromas of white flowers, citrus and pear on the nose lead into a finely textured palate. Hints of sweet almond arise. Its fresh and tingly finish with a fine phenolic chew carrying the orchard fruits into a long gentle close.

Elio Ottin is the rising star of Valle d'Aosta, the smallest of Italy's regions located in the Alps bordering France and Switzerland. Until 2007 Elio, a passionate farmer, was selling his fruit to the local cooperative, which is common in these parts due to the small land holdings and the intense labour required to work the terraced hillsides.

Fumin is a native Valdostan variety, first recorded in 1711. It is widely grown in the upper and central parts of the valley and thrives in the cold climate. Elio dries his Fumin for one week before the wine is fermented and the grapes aren't pressed into cask for ageing until the end of January. Full bodied with intense fruit aromas of marasca cherry, blackberries and blackcurrants with hints of spice, chocolate and cigar box.

We love these Alpine nebbiolo's a lot and Sandro Fay produce some of the finest in the region. The giddy heights lend a lovely lilting and lifted aromatic and fruit profile that is so appealing.

Here rose and alpine herbs meld with red currant and lucious cherry fruits with hints of young balsamic and licorice notes that entice you in. It has a resinous texture that draws out the cherry and licorice long across the palate. Mid-weight and full of energy with plenty of snappy goodness. The fine tannins string-up the vibrant fruit beautifully. It feels so light on its feet but packed with plenty of juicy fruit. What a great intro to the wines of Valtelina.

A wine that originated from where the Valpolicella tadition of drying grapes and the freshness and fragrance of grapes pressed during harvest are combined. This gives birth to a wine of great concentration and elegance, where the freshness suprises when countered by the dark, sweet fruits and long persistent palate.

This skirts such a lovely middle-ground and the lighter, fresher style we see from La Dama is given a little oomph and lick of pizzaz that is hard not to love. Pepper and camphor on the nose with dark roasted ground spice and a Campari like citrus flourish. It belies what comes after which seems so pretty and energetic but matched with some lovey dark, broody fruit that swims around a concentrated but focused core. It comes off subtle and persistent and ultimately so readily appealing. A very cool drop! 

A field blend of carricante, cataratto, inzolia, greganico and minella grown at an eye-watering 750m altitude, this finely composed white offers notes of almonds, orange peel and sea spray. The palate is slightly waxy yet driving, finishing off with a cleansing sweep of saline acidity. It's a beautiful original white, just like the place it comes from. It's wild yet delicate.

The most succulent ripe peach aromas complemented by hints of tangerine and fresh mint waft up from the 2021 Grillo Timpa. It is round and fleshy in feel, with sweet inner florals up front that give way to tropical melon and exotic spice. While a bit extroverted in character, there's plenty of stimulating acidity and sour citrus tones within to maintain fabulous balance. The 2021 leaves the palate completely refreshed with hints of kiwi and lime zest that linger. This really packs a punch, yet it never gets cloying or tiring. ERIC GUIDO, vinous.com

Honey, spiced pear, ginger, white smoke and kitchen herbs all roll around the bowl of the glass here. Typical for this wine and the variety, it's more expansive and decadent than the other whites in the range. The palate too has more sideways movement and slinky texture than the out-of-the-gate sprint of them as well. Instead, it  aristocratically strolls along the palate, with depth and richness of texture carried by buried minerality and acidity. The flavours are more about stonefruit rather than citrus but there's a little of that hanging around as well. Like all the wines, it is bristling with energy and such a departure form the resinous and heavy styles that are so common in the area.

Cannonau is one of the most widely-planted red grapes in Sardinia. It is the same grape variety as Grenache, but as is the case with most grapes, it expresses itself differently depending on where its cultivated. There is always a more earthy bent that you so often see in most Italian reds and it colours grenache in the same way.

Contini's 'Tonaghe' is very easy-going with lovely ripe plum and wild blackberry fruit with touched of dried and fresh leather. Some dried herbs give it a wild edge adding a little chirpy lift. Fine-boned tannins cut the compact red fruits nicely complementing the crunchy red fruits that dance nicely on the gentle close.

The 2020 Etna Rosso Erse keeps me coming back to the glass to take in its lively and spicy bouquet, as sour cherries are complemented by dried roses, cloves and hints of fresh mint. This is round and juicy in feel, yet focused on purity, with mineral-tinged red berries that saturate, just as brisk acidity maintains fantastic freshness. A subtle coating of fine tannins and a salty flourish define the finale, as the 2020 tapers off gently grippy under an air of red inner florals. This is an excellent "entry-level" Etna Rosso. ERIC GUIDO, Vinous

Filippo Rizzo's vines are in the middle of nowhere perched in amongst the rolling hills of Sicily. The Lamoresca Rosso" is a blend of Nero d'Avola, Frappato and Grenache grapes. This was a wine the Filippo and wife Nancy wanted to create that captured the soul of Sicily in a glass and we think it does just that.

Plump and fleshy but vibrant and built with total gluggability in mind. The glossy fruit presents with a melting pot of crushed red and black berries all laced together with a smokey earthiness that weaves in and out on both the palate and nose. Its bold but not in your face. The perfect wine for any Italian meal that you could throw it. A light sprinkle of brisk tannin keeps everything fresh and on-point. What a cracker!

Siblings Roberto and Teresa Bruno property is 20 hectares of vineyards planted to a range of classic regional varietals. The vineyards sit at elevations of 400 - 650 meters and are scattered amongst the towns of Arpaise, Lapio, Candida, Chianche and Altavilla Irpinia. Roberto has been the driving force behind the estate and has been in charge of the winemaking since its inception.

These are wonderfully classic expressions of the region that embrace a modern approach to winemaking which at its heart respects the long traditions and history of Campania.

Tahbilk Marsanne 2022

This is a reserved release and that, you’d have to argue, is a good thing. It has all the right components but it needs time for it to flesh out. Blossomy citrus and slate characters come with whispers of fennel and musk. The mouthfeel, dry riverstone-like, is very good, as is the general flow of it. At this early stage this looks to be in a very good/excellent place. CAMPBELL MATTINSON, The Wine Front

A true Australian classic that has been gracing the shelves for decades. If you have never had this wine than you must have been hiding under a rock. Its a perfect cool-weather wine with lovely textural elements and a plush mouthfeel that makes it super versatile with food. 

Yangarra Blanc 2021

The renamed Yangarra Estate Vineyard is the estate base for the operation and has moved to certified biodynamic status with its vineyards. Peter Fraser has taken Yangarra Estate to another level altogether with his innovative winemaking and desire to explore all the possibilities of the Rhône Valley red and white styles. Thus you will find grenache, shiraz, mourvèdre, cinsault, carignan and tempranillo and plantings of picpoul noir and muscardin around the corner. The white varieties are roussanne and grenache blanc, bourboulenc and picpoul blanc. Then you see ceramic eggs being used in parallel with conventional fermenters. Peter was named Winemaker of the Year in the Wine Companion 2016. -JAMES HALLIDAY

Yeah, this gear is good! A classic Rhone blend that is sure to please and from one of the country's greats. Its crisp and crunchy as well as slippery with a gentle grip. Pure and fleshy the combo of orchard fruits sprinkled with spice and white pepper are ever appealing. A mid-weight white that is full of energy and verve that just zips along the palate beautifully. Cracking little white.

Sourced from the bottom section of the North Eastern slope of the Denton View Hill and made by local legend Luke Lambert.

Whole bunch pressed and wild fermented and matured in a mix of stainless steel tank and old French oak. Wild malo-lactic fermentation (100%). Left on full lees with occasional stirring for 6 months. Bottled without fining or filtration.

This shows the best combo of modern Australian winemaking and know-how with incredible quality fruit sourced from a single vineyard in the Yarra. Lemon pith, apple, nashi pear, and white nectarine are framed by gentle spicy oak that presents beautifully against the pure fruits. It's a subtle and elegant nose that has a pretty little floral lilt to it. The palate is at once easy and open yet tight and coiled somehow. It has presence but it doesn't feel big or plump with the sweet, new-season orchard fruit to the fore. A lovely interplay between winemaking and a hands-off approach that gives plenty of detail and subtle complexity. This really over-delivers in every way.

This is a meaty, spicy, grown-up release. It’s a blend of shiraz and pinot noir from various parts of the Beechworth region, both up the hill and down. It offers sweet, toasty spice notes, a rub of smoked meat, black cherry flavours and peppercorn. It flirts with reduction without really needing to go there. The word savouriness doesn’t just hover; it lands. Think herbs, think a clear line of acidity, think fine fingers of tannin. In a nutshell it’s seamless, complex and elegant. CAMPBELL MATTINSON, The Wine Front

The Schmolzer kids are at it again. If you wonder why their wines consistently make it into these packs its because they get it. Wines that are always eminently drinkable, showcasing regional personality and with complexity that is sometime missed given just how smashable they are. Another ripper here with this sultry and smashable red blend.

Blend of 85/15% barbera/nebbiolo and 15% nebbiolo, left about 5 weeks on skins and aged in old barriques for 8 months. Delightfully fragrant with roses and exotic spices; flavours of dark cherries and star anise at first, plus a distinct wintergreen/bitter herbs character. It offers plenty of savouriness and tangy acidity to seal the deal. Nice one. JANE FAULKNER, James Halliday

As he tells it, Bryan Martin established Ravensworth in Murrumbateman with his partner Jocelyn and brother David in 2001 because “it seemed like a good idea at the time.” Well we are glad he did. He's got a bit of a cult following now and we love what he does. This a delightful that charms you with a sweet caress of lush fruits, sweet spice and glugability turned up to 11! The softness of barbera is perfectly weighted against the bite of nebbiolo in a perfect symbiosis here. Great stuff!

The colour of this. The vibrance of youth is on full display here, all purple, dark and glowing, and it sets the tone for the wine to come. Woodsy spice, sweet plums, a bit of crunch, a lot of fresh fruit. More-ish plus plus. Sandalwood notes here too. Clove-like inflections. A positive dryness to the finish. But all the while, eager fruit. One sip and you just want to keep on drinking this. It’s lovely. CAMPBELL MATTINSON, The Wine Front

With 12% merlot and the all-important 2% malbec and 1% cabernet franc! Matured in French barrels for 14 months (20% new). A medium crimson. Lifted and attractive nose redolent of boysenberries and other briary fruits. A simply delicious and approachable medium-bodied wine with fresh fruit, supple tannins and moreish acidity. Great value. PHILIP RICH, James Halliday

Ninth-generation winemaker Dominique Portet chose the cool climate of aptly named Coldstream in the Yarra Valley as home to the eponymous winery he founded in 2000. It was the culmination of a tenacious search for grapegrowing terroir to rival that of his native Bordeaux – but also the start of a new chapter in a winemaking story that has its roots in France in the early 1700s. Today they continue to make a range of classy wines that offer some of the best bang for you buck in the Valley and this Fontaine cab always knocks it out of the park.

Wow! This was such a wonderful surprise and terrific value Chianti from the estates of Andrea Cecchi. Made from 90% Sangiovese and 10% Colorino, the wine does not see any oak and has a tradiotional leaning and plenty of character, particularly for a wine at this price. The Cecchi family has 125 years of winemaking history and have some excellent vineyards at their disposal.

This years version still has that vibrant & fresh expression of sangiovese but looks a touch more broody with some darker shades of fruit slinking around in the background. fleshy and soft fruits throughout with a pillowy texture that is cut with those crunchy sangiovese tannins. Hints of black cherry and wild forest fruits with a touch of leather and some savoury dried herbs.

An ethos that blends attention to detail with the high quality old vineyards to create authentic contemporary classics. Based in the historic town of San Vicente de la Sonsierra, in the heart of DOCa Rioja surrounded to the north by the Sierra Cantabria and to the south by the Ebro river. The microclimate of the area and its clay-calcareous soils generate the perfect conditions for the vineyard, especially for Tempranillo.

A blend of Tempranillo, Garnacha and Graciano from a selection of vineyards with low yielding fruit settled on poor soils of Ebro's terraces in the area of the Sonsierra. Manual harvest and spontaneous fermentation with natural yeasts and small amounts of sulfur are added. Aging: 18 months in French, Eastern European and American oak barrels. 10% of new barrels and 90% of used barrels from 2 to 6 uses.

A heady mix of aromas cocoa and vanilla that envelopes smashed black ripe fruits. Lots of tempranillo liquorice aromas with a spicy lift that leads into an elegant flavour profile matched with juicy black fruit backed by typical tempranillo structure. It finished soft and velvety with a black cherry and delicate cola lift.

Rutini Wines was a pioneer of the Argentinian wine industry with an eye to produce top wines that lead with quality at their core. Today it continues to maintain this essential component of their identity, thanks to the terroirs, state of the art installations, winemaker expertise, and most of all their dedication to consistently create superb quality wines.

Love that nose! Deep, plum and boysenberry with blue fruits, a lick of vanilla and a wild herbaceousness flecked throughout. It delivers its dark fruit and sweet spice cake straight up on the palate but follows up with hints of fresh earth and that same wild herb note that cleans out the back end. All the lovely lush fruit you could want but it all sits up nicely, fresh and bright with a weave of slinky tannins that take this a cut above most that are offered at this price-point. 
 

A blend of 70% Viognier, 30% Roussanne from high-altitude single site at the top of the village of Mauves and at the edge of the Saint-Joseph appellation. Decomposed granite (like Hermitage) that is sand-like in texture. All fermented in stainless steel.

A pretty and inviting nose that sucks you in with some exotic looking, citrus and yellow tree fruit spiked with a mineral, saline edging. Its lush and full with everything held in tight giving plenty of tension and nerve. Love how the slippery, lush fruits ride on tight-rope of fresh acidity and that mineral twang making its presence felt in all the right ways. This is how it's done!

First point to make here is that this is the freshest and most tense version of this wine to date. White flowers, slightly underripe nectarine, you know that feeling? Crunchy, tangy, leaves your mouth feeling refreshed? Second point to make is there is quite a solid little hit of extract here. I think that's what keeps this wine from being bracing, it's kind of a buffering effect. It races across the palate with intent and gets the old salivary glands working. It is so refreshing but I really wanted some oysters to have with it and we were too "busy" at the time. I think another six months in the bottle should see a little more fruit build up too.

Chenin Blanc, crouchen, sauvignon blanc, chardonnay and pinot gris; some skin fermentation, lees time, considered winemaking.

A beautiful, savoury-leaning, medium weight white wine of great charisma. Scents of candle wax, lemon balm, ripe apple and fudge. The palate is more lemony, creamy almost but for a cut of ultra fine tannin lending some chew and chalkiness. Flavours run long and the finish is this cavalcade of briny minerality, sweet spice and nutty savouriness. Wow. It’s just got so much going on. One for not drinking too cold. Super wine. MIKE BENNIE, The Wine Front

From the home block. A serious take on the variety. Fuller in flavour too – lots of proper chardonnay character.

Deep and delicious but lively and fresh too. Very nutty, saline minerally and lashed with ripe apple, lime, nectarine. It feels fragrant, rich in a way but the briny lift in the palate takes things away and refreshes with each sip. Gentle despite the layers of flavour. Moreish, overall. Juicy texture finishes in a fine, light chew of talc-like grip. Succulent. This does a lot of things really well. Ready to roll now. MIKE BENNIE, The Wine Front

Rolet is one of the classic and great producers of Jura making wines of wonderful intensity and palate staining minerality in a modern and fresh framework. These are always some of our favourite wines from the region. The savagnin is fermented in partially filled barrels but topped up to make sure there is very little oxidisation.
So lovely on the nose with chalky, floral notes interspersed with white pepper that flecks the apple and pear fruits. Beautifully textured with waxy white fruits layered into a creamy and crunchy palate. There is this push-pull between the savoury mineral notes and the perfectly ripe fruit that is so appealing. Its savoury and sweet and sweet at once and oh so, more-ish.

One of the great white wines of Australia. A different expression this year, in some respects, where each year varies, but this is a swerve.

Huge energy in this wine, but distinct in its firm, herbal thread. It’s highly perfumed in lemongrass, sage leaf, preserved lemon, green almond. Beautiful, really. The palate is where the business is at. The texture is sublime, slinky, concentrated, grippy and extraordinarily long with a saline, faintly nutty finish with some parmesan rind pleasing bitterness to finish with a light, white balsamic lift also pleasing and bright. So refreshing and moreish too. Lemongrass to taste, apple, mixed peel, supple lime notes, green almond again. It’s an outstanding wine, a wine of character. MIKE BENNIE, The Wine Front

STAGE 2 VIROTIA-GASTEIZ > BILBAO 182km

When Telmo took over Remelluri in 2009 he found that his father had increasingly been buying wines from the villages either side of Remelluri Estate or 'linde' or limit of Remelluri, on the track to Haro right on Basque country. Telmo immediately culled the grower fruit. However, instead of simply cancelling their contracts, leaving the villagers without income, he decided to make a grower's wine from each village.

You can feel how open the valley is below San Vicente, with warmer and redder soils and the influence of the Mediterranean. The sense of sky and space is lower and quieter in register. Open and spicy, dry and earthy, four-square in tannin profile. Cherry fruit has a stony reserve, with herbal aromatics of wispy wild fennel and tobacco in an earthen, granular palate.

STAGE 4 DAX > NOGARO 182km

Matthieu Cosse and Catherine Maisonneuve created Domaine Cosse Maisonneuve in 1999 after taking over the  5-hectare estate in the small region of Prayssac, near Cahors in the south west of France. The property was planted with 40-year-old Malbec (locally known as 'Cot') and they have now moved towards Certified organic and work with some biodynamic principles. Everything is by hand here and the wines are uncommonly elegant and round compared to the more rustic versions we are used to seeing.

No oak in this cuvee and it is so much better for it. That typical mulberry and boysenberry fruit leap out of the glass with a touch of licorice interspersed between wild bracken aroma. Approachable and fruity, with a soft, supple texture and dressed with a fine layer of smooth rich tannin. Vibrant and full of energy but still solidly built without feeling cumbersome or heavy. They really pull this off beautifully.

STAGE 7 MONT-DE-MARSAN > BORDEAUX

Deep garnet-purple in color, the 2018 La Vieille Cure opens with cedar chest, graphite and tree bark scents, giving way to a core of baked blackberries, stewed plums and cherry compote, with wafts of Sichuan pepper and star anise. The full-bodied palate (15% alcohol) is wearing a lot of oak at this stage, with a good core of baked black fruits and loads of exotic spice accents, supported by grainy tannins and just enough freshness, finishing woody. Give it a good 5 years for the oak to integrated and drink it over the next 12-15 years or more. LISA PERROTTI-BROWN, The Wine Advocate

Aromas of plum, blueberry, dark chocolate and walnut husk. Some pine cone, too. It's medium-to full-bodied with firm, powdery tannins. Chewy, creamy and polished all at once. Extremely well done. Try from 2023. JAMES SUCKING

STAGE 12 ROANNE > BELLEVILLE-EN-BEAUJOLAIS 169km

Light-footed and lively with crisp acidity, this 2021 Fleurie has plenty of strawberry and garden herb aromas. The rather firm, clean finish suggests this has some years ahead of it. Drink or hold. STUART PIGGOT, jamessuckling.com

Bursting with aromas of cherries, berries and plums, the 2021 Fleurie Les Marrans is medium-bodied, lively and succulent, with tangy acids and a fine-boned, pretty profile that offers considerable charm in its lighter-weight format. WILLIAM KELLEY, The Wine Advocate

STAGE 13 CHATILLON-SUR-CHALARONNE > GRAND COLOMBIER

Vibrant red and dark berry aromas show fine definition and complementary suggestions of peony, white pepper and olive. Juicy and appealingly sweet, offering Chambord, black raspberry and spicecake flavors that slowly deepen through the midpalate. Smooth tannins frame a long, lively, floral-tinged finish that echoes the spice and red fruit notes. There are qualities here that remind me a lot of a ripe New World Pinot Noir. JOSH RAYNOLDS, Vinous

The 2019 Collines Rhodaniennes La Rosine is another pretty, seamless wine from Ogier, offering classic Northern Rhone black raspberry like fruit as well as some chalky minerality and spice. Medium-bodied, it has fine tannins, and nicely integrated acidity. JEB DUNNUCK

STAGE 18 MOUTIERS > BOURG-EN-BRESSE

Andre Quenards family are second generation here in the limestone strewn vineyards under the majestic peaks of the Massif des Bauges. They are considered some of the best of the best and work some of the most pictureqe vineyards in the regions. Andre continues each season to capture the essence of this unique terrior translated through its native varietals of which there are many.

Mondeuse vines clinging to steep, high-altitude limestone rubble-an extreme terroir that requires serious determination and physical endurance to farm. While Mondeuse can tend toward the rustic, this one is refined for a year in wood foudres before bottling. It has often been likened to a cross between Pinot Noir and Syrah: bright, elegant, and floral, with suggestions of wild fruit, blood, and minerals.

Is it Rhone? Is it Beaujolais? Is it Pinot noir? Floral and pretty with violets and red pastille fruits that leap out of the glass and grab you. Some smoky roasted earthy notes too and pretty but wild. Intriguing! Juicy and plump with a mix of red and black small, wild berry fruits and a bit of red plum sourness that works really well. It's a little bit of the Mediterranean south and the cool marginal north colliding in a beautiful way

Castera Jurancon Sec 2021

STAGE 5 PAU > LARUNS 163km

Franck Lihour is a relative newcomer with only his first vintage in 2014. But within a short amount of time, he has lifted his family's estate, Domaine Castera, to be one of the top producers of Jurançon. His ability to tame the searing acidity with concentrated fruit while keeping the wines bone dry and without ever losing any balance is exceptional. His work in the vineyard, slow & long pressing, time in old neutral oak and use of whole clusters the key to maintaining the knife edge wines he has endeared his fans with.

Waxy citrus, pear and white orchard fruit entice you in while a gentle floral lilt and softly spice nose keep you coming back for more. The palate is refined and electric, with a long, slightly leesy finish, that seems to build and build in on its self as you continue to sip it. This is at once luxurious and broad that seems to paint the flavours across your palate while sitting up, fresh and bright on a web of tightly woven acidity. Very cool!

STAGE 7 MONTE-DE-MARSAN > BORDEAUX 170km

The Chateau la Caussade wines are grown on the typical clay-limestone soil of southern Bordeaux with fossilized oysters in subsoil that give it the minerally freshness and firm fruit. A blend of 96 % Sauvignon 4% Semillon its fermented in stainless steel tanks with some extend macerations and long ageing on lees with frequent stirring.

The team at Caussade have done a wonderful job of building texture and weight into this wine while keeping all the beautiful fresh and mineral laden fruit at the core. The lemon and pepper hit from the semillon at lovely little accents here and there wine flows with fresh apple, citrus and soft peach notes. A little wild herb on the finish just adds another dimension.

STAGE 15 LES GETS LES PORTES DE SOLEIL > SAINT-GERVAIS MONT BLANC 179km

Located at the foothills of the Bauges massif, and bordering neighbouring Switzerland and Valle d'Aosta in Italy, the organically farmed vineyards of Domaine Adrien Berlioz in the Savoie region are as picturesque as you might imagine.

Berlioz took over the family vineyards in 2006, two hectares located near a small village called Chignin at 390m above sea level. With plenty of hard work alongside the pursuit of purity and a certified biodynamic approach to farming, he has grown the vineyard to 5 hectares, transforming it into one of the region's most prestigious domaines.

Lively and electric on the palate, leading with notes of ripe green apple and pear. It's a rich and intensely textured wine, with charming acidity and length to complete the package. There's qualities here similar to a Loire Chenin Blanc, but the combination of the Jacquare with the magic touch and power from the Altesse is really something unique!

STAGE 18 MOUTIERS > BOURG-EN-BRESSE 185km

Golden colour. Deep and honeyed, grilled cashew and white flower aromatic. Fruit spectrum dances around the orchard and something slightly more exotic with a puff of white smoke putting a complexing note into the conversation. The palate follows suits with a lovely attack of sweet citrus and melon fruits spreading across the palate before a blast of limestone-linked austerity and tension pulls everything back into line. It's a wine I just loved drinking. you get Macon generosity and enjoyment alongside enough tension on the backend to keep you wanting another glass. This guys is a "watch-this-space" producer. MICHAEL MCNAMARA, PWS

STAGE 20 BELFORT > LE MARKSTEIN FELLERING 173km

Intensely rich nose. Very biodynamic - such power and interest! This really grabs the taste buds and wrestles them into submission. Yes, ok, you're a great wine - I give in! Persistent layers of something both floral and mineral. JANCIS ROBINSON MW

STAGE 21 - FINALE! - SAINT-QUENTIN-EN-YVELINES > PARIS CHAMPS-ELYSEES

Disgorged in June 2019, Vilmart's latest NV Brut Premier Cru Grande Réserve is showing beautifully, bursting with aromas of pear, wheat toast, yeast extract and confit citrus. Medium to full-bodied, seamless and complete, it's fleshy and enveloping, with a fleshy core of fruit, tangy acids and a pillowy mousse. While it's already showing well it will also age with grace. Derived from the 2017 vintage and complemented by reserve wines from 2015 and 2016, it was disgorged with nine grams per liter dosage. WILLIAM KELLEY, The Wine Advocate

La Cidrerie, created in 1950 by François Sehedic father, has been specialized in the production of drinks from apples to cider of ancient varieties specific to the Breton terroir and particularly to the prestigious Fouesnant. Marie Laure Séhédic and her husband Christian Daniélou continue today to highlight the area. The cider house holds organic and biodynamic certification.
Traditional cider from Brittany with a funky twist to its bright and inviting nose. A touch of sweetness that finishes nice and dry and is wonderfully rustic in its style. This is true farmhouse cider.

Previously labelled 'Unique' Sauvignon Blanc. With a new name and spanking new label designed by the talented French-based artist Louise Sheeran, the package here now reflects the quality of the wine inside. Cropped from mature vines rooted in the sandy clay soils of Cheverny's Fougères sur Bièvre, Blanc de Salvard is 100% Sauvignon Blanc raised on lees without any oak.

This is how sauvignon blanc should be. Racy, minerality at its core but tamed with white fruits, nectarine, a little hint of something tropical delicately in the background and packed with flavour without being a one-dimensional tropical fruit bomb. This a great example of what a little care and attention can turn this somewhat ubiquitous grape into something so freakin delicious.

This is always such a delicious wine and if there was wine that represented what Hugel do and how well they do it, the Gentil would do it with aplomb.
Famille Hugel was established in 1639 by Hans Ulrich Hugel and is one of the regions most loved producers and largest landholders with in excess of 120 hectares of vineyards to their name. Situated in Riquewihr the estate has over the years built an enviable reputation for the consistency and quality of its wines.

Pretty florals, a hint of rose petal, grapefruit and citrus rind, white pepper, sweet spice, it has it all. The 21 looks a little racier then the previous vintage and is all the better for it. The sweet spice notes and ripe fruit are all hung on a fine bead of sherberty acid and fine phenolic grip. Mid-weight but with tons of energy and zip. What a cracker!

The Croix de Bezard make a pitch-perfect picpoul - say that 5 times fast. Selected from older vines (over 25 years old) in prime vineyard locations around the Bassin de Thau, the grapes are harvested at night at perfect maturity and softly pressed to steel to reserve the fresh fruits and delicate aromatics.

A lovely citrus, pithy hit that melts away into a mandarin rind and pear fruit freshness on the nose. Its light and easy but there is a gentle phenolic grip to the palate that takes it up another level from many wines of the region. The juicy lemony fruits coat the palate with a soft white pepper sprinkle and a hit of iodine, ocean spray on the finish. Love it!

The Félicette wines originate from the Languedoc-Roussillon region in the south of France, along its southern-most coastline of the Mediterranean. Coming from vineyards between Narbonne and Béziers, the grapes are de-stemmed, undergo cold maceration and gentle ferments. The Félicette Blanc is mostly Grenache Blanc, with a little Viogner.

Yum! Such and intriguing and inviting nose. A little fresh mint, sliced pear and a hint of apricot are all wrapped in a zest and punchy nose. This is pure and plush, no oak used to trick it up relying on grenache blanc slippery textural elements to carry the long palate. A little more apple and tree fruits smashed together with some apricot and peach for good measure. It's a little spicy, it's a little fruity and it has a ton energy and vibrancy to boot. Not exactly heavy but definitely not light either. A great winter white.

35% Grenache, 35% Syrah, 30% Cinsault

Headed up by winemaking duo Clément Minne and Pauline Giraud, this small domaine will be a force to follow and makes an interesting counterpoint to the 'old guard' Bandol producers currently represented in Australia. All fruit is hand harvested, vineyards not owned outright are leased and fully domaine managed, and the wines are not only spectacular, but exceptional value considering the provenance.

The Little G that all the homies want to be.  Made with a lot of care considering its level - grapes are hand harvested and manually sorted for starters.  Provence style through and through, it's of beautiful salmon shade, with a nose of zesty citrus, mandarin and satsuma, the palate fruit driven and crunchy, with some of Gueissard's house style showing through - a teeny bit of guava skin, red currants, tangarine/mandarin juice, and a herbal undertow.  Summer in a bottle.

Lucien Lardy has been producing high-quality but still relatively unknown wines for some time that consistently deliver exceptional value… JOSH RAYNOLDS, vinous.com

Lucien works across several crus in the region, but it is in Fleurie where he really shines. The vines are old, nothing less then 40 years and in some cases, much older. The vines are densely planted and the poor top-soil gives way immediately to the famous granite bedrock below which all flows trough to give the wines their unmistakable minerality.

Pretty with a touch of wild forest notes on the nose with raspberry and red cherry fruit with a little brambly currant in there too. Plenty of crunch and lots of energy that carries the pure red fruits in a juicy and well-proportioned package. The tannins are fine and give the wine a wonderful pliancy. Vibrant, easy but with a serious edge. A great looking release.

Francois Villard was not born into wine; he started out his career as a chef. Today, makes wine from 64 hectares, of which he owns 40 hectares, purchasing fruit from the balance. Villard farms sustainably and waiting for organic certification. Villard tends to harvest later than his neighbors, optimizing ripeness and manages to captures an opulence and a freshness so beautifully in the glass.

Absolutely beautiful nose here with white pepper and a melange of baking spice are punctuated with heady violet florals and that savoury profile that is unmistakable of the norther Rhone. This taste like baby Crozes-Hermitage and might as well be. Sleek and fine on with crushed black cherry and cool blue fruits that wind a long and lush palate. A gentle grip and smoky spice on the long finish compliment the fresh berry fruits wonderfully. Another ripper here.

Delas Freres is a winery of tradition and renewal. Founded 160 years ago in the heart of the northern Côtes du Rhône, Delas wines are crafted by a panel of experts headed by winemaker Jacques Grange. Together, the team makes wines that have been heralded for their intensity of flavour and excellent value. Delas maintains a philosophy of preserving the authentic characteristics of each appellation through separate vinification of the fruit from each vineyard.

The Ventoux form Delas is always in a slightly lighter fresher style. We feel like it often gets over looked but from year to year it offers up the same quality and drinking pleasure of Delas' other rhone bottlings. Here, a little more red cherry and currant fruit is to the fore with white & black pepper sprinkling that slowly fades giving way to more heady luxe spice in the glass. It tips past the mid-point into slightly more fuller then in some years but is plenty vibrant and fresh. Fine tannins support the supple and open fruits. Another winner!

For at least two decades, the Clos la Coutale's wine has been unmistakable in flavour personality and offered terrific value, DAVID SCHIDNECHT, The Wine Advocate.

The earliest part of Clos La Coutale's cellar dates back to 1779, making it one of the oldest domaines in Cahors. Philippe Bernède has been at the helm since 1985 and is the 6th generation of his family to make wine at the 100ha estate, whose vineyards lie on the gentle alluvial slopes that rise up from the Lot River.

Sweet pastille and coulis like wild forest berries, mulberry crushed with charry rocky notes, bracken and anise. It screams of malbec! Roasted pomegranate, dark cherry, crushed berries and a mineral laden palate that's broad and lush, slowly tightening its grip fine, rainy tannins that keep the warm fruits restrained cajoling them around the mouth. Some fresh ground peppercorn and a soft and savoury meaty note on the finish add even more interest. We should be drinking so much more of this.

The team at Gaffeliere effuse to bend to fashion trends but instead walk a middle ground that embrace both tradition and modernity. Their respect of the terroir is linked to their long history in St Emilion and the family origins that go back generations.

The merlot predominant blend from the slope and the foot of the hillside produces a wine that at once contains a subtle sense of power while remaining racy, silky and smooth. There is a wonderful harmony here with the supple and plush merlot layering damson plumb, spice cake notes, wild forest fruits and black peppercorn between the cabernet francs crunchy red cherry and soft, wild herbs. A perfect example of right bank goodness and for an absolute steel.

The Fontarèche property, at the heart of Corbiere in Languedoc-Roussillon, has a long, illustrious and noble history dating back to 1201. Current proprietor, Jacques de Lamy took over from his father, Count Edouard de Lamy in 1957 where the de Lamy family has been in charge of the property since 1682. The estate works with 17 grape varieties, but Carignan is their jewel in the crown. The vines are planted to the semi-desert Mediterranean climate trapped between the Atlantic and Mediterranean. The Atlantic breezes funnel through the mountain ranges that form the backdrop of the region and help to temper the summer heat in the vineyards retaining freshness and vibrancy in the wines.

Wonderfully lifted notes of violets, mulberry and blue fruits all underlined with gentle minerality. The palate is brimming with a core of dark fruits that come together nicely with a focused and energetic finish. It really is surprising the level of subtle complexity at this price point that remains so easy to drink at the same time

This is classic English ale at its very best. What to say about this incredible brewery? They are of the benchmark for traditional English ales and stouts that employ the same methods for brewing now that they have for the past 100+ years.

Golden malts on the nose with sweet heady florals, chamomile and wild grasses with hints of citrus and fresh bread. These are beautifully clean and clear tasting ales, light on their feet with soft, supple malts throughout that float on a rich and creamy, just perfectly bittered palate. What a beet! An absolute English classic.

We love the wines of AA Badenhorst. They represent not only incredible value given the quality but they are classic examples of South African wine. From top to bottom the crew lavish these wines so much, love, care and attention it would make most producers in the Cape jealous. If you are just starring out with South African wine and just how good it can be look no further!

A touch of honey-blossom and citrus peel entice. That mineral, chalky sprinkle and wafts of apple, pear, a hint of quince and Meyer lemon. The palate is tight and lean then fans out with a rush of crystalline tree fruit and a waxy, citrus note that carries it along beautifully. Nice focus and a little pithy texture to boot. Cracking, classic chenin here.

How do they do it? Every year this is a PWS favourite and it never fails to deliver. Made by Rheinhessen legends Gunderloch with vineyards  close to the Rhines south-east steep slopes. The combination of the red slate soil, the proximity to the river, the exposure to the sun and the steepness of the vineyards - are perfect for producing wonderful ripeness.

This year the cooler 2022 vintage plays wonderfully into the hands of the Fritz giving it an extra shot of energy and nervy goodness. Still plenty of pithy stone frui, apple crunch and white tree fruits with a little exotic hit of guava in there just playing its part. There is always a nice textural element at play even at this level and the balance is spot on. Classic German rizza here.

Sawanotsuru was established in 1717, in Kobe, in the prefecture of Hyogo. The current owner, Mr Nishimura, is the 15th generation family owner.

This is their everyday Junmai. Yamadanishiki (the king of Sake rice) is used generously. By using Yamadanishiki rice, this sake has a depth of flavour with a fruity aroma. The texture is very soft and elegant and the finish is clean and dry.

There is gentle grip here too and nice soft spicy, white pepper overtones that work really well. For those new to sake this is cracking all-rounder. You can serve this cold or lightly warm and its super versatile as far food so have at it.

Fontana Bodegas & Viñedos is a leading producer of Estate wines, owning over 600 hectares, and managing a further 400 hectares of sustainably farmed, high-altitude vineyards in Castile, Central Spain.
Jesús Cantarero, the current owner, has now brought together a highly experienced, eclectic, multi-national team of wine professionals, including Sam Harrop MW, who produce authentic, contemporary wines of great purity and freshness.

This once again delivers exceptional quality for the money. It is one of those how do they do it for the money numbers. Spicy top notes overlay a nose of raspberry, red currant and diced strawberry. It's a touch heavier then light but done with lovely precision and purity. Fresh picked berry fruits are sweet and plush with a little sweet spice weaved in nicely. Its not simple but its not a wine you need to sit and contemplate for hours. Just enjoy it for what it is - delicious!.

Cave de Cairanne is a cooperative founded in 1929 in the heart of the Cru's of Southern Rhone. A total of 65 growers make up the Cooperative with a majority of their vineyard area being run Organically.The vines are predominately located in and around the town of Cairanne and mostly facing the Dentelles de Montmirail and Mont Ventoux.

In the winery the same mindset of the most artisanal producers is followed. Either minimal or no sulphur, concrete tanks and wines spend time on their fine lees for silkiness and protection against oxygen The results are wines of freshness, personality, texture, silkiness, structure, elegance and finesse. All of this is achieved at some seriously sharp pricing. A very very good effort!

A tight and primary nose with a nuance of crushed, dried violets that lift from the enveloping wild black and blue berry spectrum. With time in the glass fruit builds and matches spice and mountain herbs.The tannins are ripe and wrapped in bright red fruit. There is a lovely 2021 vintage stamp of freshness that is laced around the fruit and structure.

Lake Hayes Pinot Noir is named after the namesake lake at the foot of Queenstown's Wakatipu basin. One of the most photographed lakes in the country and a striking place to make wine. Made by the crew at Amisfield, just down the road, so you know it will over-deliver and it does.

Black damson plum with crushed black raspberry and will, fresh picked strawberry. Plenty of charm here that leads with a plush and robust palate that tightens up nicely revealing some sweet and savoury spice with just a hint of flashy oak to bring it all together. Not a lot of Otago pinot around at this point delivering this level of utter hedonistic enjoyment as well as subtle complexity. Anther great release.

Hand picked and fermented wild. Up to 5 weeks on skins. A strident approach to extraction. More should take note! Largely co-fermented. Exceptional. Prosaic, I suppose, but the natural buttress of carignan's astringency, wildness and natural acidity obviate Aussie grenache's inherent sweetness. So good! I am having difficult spitting this, such is the first base of saliva-inducing structure. The kirsch, tapenade, white pepper and lavender, a distant second. My favourite wine of the stable. NED GOODWIN, James Halliday

I feel like the Bernice Ong and Julian Forwood can do no wrong. They have been making stellar wines out of the Mclaren Vale and also Tassie for some time now. While they don't own vineyards they have made great relationships with growers and have access to fantastic fruit.

While we normally talk up the temp-grenache blend this came across the tasting desk recently and we were blown away. Its such a perfect combo of juicy goodness, succulent fruit and perfect poise that you almost lose what wonderful complexity lies underneath it all. We hope they keep making this! 

Fruit is sourced from Forest Hill vineyard and vines in Frankland River. There is a portion of malbec in this wine. Plush and smooth, medium weight and chocolatey. A dense and dark perfume of plum and dark chocolate, faint mint and sea spray with black olive notes in the mix. The palate is molten dark chocolate with raspberry, black olive and bay leaf characters. The wine feels compact and the tannins are lithe and puckering/refreshing. Feels pretty smart and does a good job of being reserved. MIKE BENNIE, The Wine Front

We always feel like we over-look Forest Hill and I don't know why. The wines are excellent and they always punch well above their weight. They were one of the first to establish themselves in the cooler reaches of the Frankland River in 1965 and what they have created there is something pretty special.

The head oenologist of Rutini Wines Mariano Di Paola, is a prominent figure in the Argentinean wine industry, and has been the head oenologist at Rutini Wines since 1993. He was acknowledged as one the world's top 30 oenologists by Decanter Magazine in 2015.

Yes! Bonarda. The other red grape of Argentina and much overlooked though gaining plenty of interest today and this is a great example. Satsuma plums, dark cherry, a little bitter chocolate and some sweet baking spicy notes. Its mid-weight, soft and supple but has some nice detail and light seasoning from a little mix of American and French oak. Really nicely done with strapping fruit, nicely concentrated and perfectly balanced. Super value!

Fontaleoni is a family estate run by brother and sister team, Matteo and Simona Troiani, with a little help from consultant Paolo Caciorgna. They've succeeded in producing a range that is emblematic of the best of what the region has to offer and packaged it up with some of the besta value coming out of the region.

Youthful and pretty nose of flowers, raspberries and fresh plums. Medium-bodied, fresh and juicy, with easy tannins and a simple finish. Tinta roriz, touriga franca and touriga nacional. JAMES SUCKLING

This is a great stating point for the Crasto wines, one of Portugal's still wine stars. The aim for this bottling is always to produce a wine with freshnessa and vibrancy that captures all the warm, beguiling fruit of the Douro. A perfect mix of lifted, pretty aromatics and that saturated, dark fruit all spiced up and ready to go. This sees no wood so an extra level of zing. A beautiful blend of classic Portuguese varietals that is ready to go. If you have never tried Portuguese still wine before this is the perfect place to start.
 

Vinden Pokolbin Blanc White Blend 2023

(An)Gus Vinden is the next-gen in charge at the much loved Vinden Estate in the Hunter Valley. He is reimaging his farther estate with a string of exciting new releases and modern interpretation of the wines of the Hunter. This is Part of Gus new experimental range all from a single vineyard in Polkolbin.

A real treat with musky, rose petal and ginger flecked aromatics sprinkled with a little white pepper chalky goodness. Super inviting and open aromatics that entice but with a little intrigue and a certain je ne sais quoi that capture you even more. Its lovely and pure, crispy tree fruits, some quince, a little citrus thrown in. Its thirst quenching stuff that will appeal to many.

The family vineyard in White Hutt always produces wines of great generosity, and the 2023 No.3 is a uniquely balanced wine that exhibits both richness and delicacy. The nose is richly seductive with aromas of candied lemon, yellow peach, toffee apple and fresh mango. The palate is intensely flavoured yet deceptively delicate; with zesty citrus-driven flavours of tangerine and grapefruit complemented by sweet stone fruit and rich tropical notes. The generous and lusciously succulent palate is deftly bound by a tight line of crisp natural acidity that carries through the long, zesty finish.

This crisp, refreshing Riesling captures the elegant and racy characteristics of steep, slate-soil Mosel vineyard. It's produced with grapes from contracted growers throughout the Mosel River valley who work closely with the Loosens to achieve excellent quality and superb concentration. What the team at Loosen have been able to do at this price point is pretty astonishing and this never fails to impress year-in-year-out.

This has everything you need or want in a good rosé, from bountiful red berries, mid-palate textural complexity and a long-running spiciness across the palate to versatility at the table. Quite an accomplishment. And all of that at a reasonable price. JENI PORT, James Halliday 

La Linea is a partnership of several experienced wine industry professionals, including Peter Leske and David LeMire MW. Peter was among the first to recognise the potential of tempranillo in Australia and his knowledge of it is reflected in the three wine styles made from the variety: Tempranillo Rose,Tempranillo blended from several Adelaide Hills vineyards and Norteno, from a single vineyard at the northern end of the Hills.

We were very impressed in a recent line-up of the full La Linea range. These wines have always been good and they just keep getting better and this rose wone us over as the star of the show.
 

This is a relatively new project that was conceived by the Masaveu family after acquiring an old farm and vineyards on the outskirts of Olite, in Navarra. Today on these lands there are 240 hectares of vineyards with different varieties of grapes (tempranillo, Graciano, Garnacha, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah) and 14,000 m2 of facilities. They have invested heavily in modern facilities and sustainable farming and are producing a range of wonderful value wines out of Navarra.

This is 60% tempranillo with 40% Garnacha that shines with a sunny warmth and generosity. Cherry pip, pastille fruits, a hint of cola and a good douse of clove and ground sweet spice. Its such an inviting nose and the palate doesn't disappoint with sweet red fruits, raspberry coulis, black forest berries and a lovely lick of wild herbs that closes out the long, lush palate. Its vibrant, zingy and pure

Sam Scott continues to redefine our expectations of Italian varieties grown in Australian soil. His La Prova label has turned out some of the most breathtaking interpretations of Nebbiolo, Pinot Grigio, Aglianico and Prosecco produced here as well as Sam's most adored variety Sangiovese. The Sangiovese from here remains possibly the most compelling version of this variety that we have seen grown in Australia, period.

This is a great example of Aussie sangiovese that captures the warmth and generosity of our warmer Mediterranean climate while holding on to all those elements that make sangiovese great. A touch of cola, some punch sweet spice and combo of red and black cherries. The palate opens with lush morello cherry fruit and black raspberry flavours that coat the mouth then fall away gently revealing hints of leather, fresh tobacco and those wonderful savoury tannins that make the varietal such a great food wine. The warm sunny fruit is snapped back into place with crunchy acidity which comes in waves with the succulent fruit. Cracking little wine.

There's a crunch to the air that you breathe at the highest point of the Pandolfa vineyards, some 300m above the gorgeous 17th century es-tate now owned by Marco Cirese and his wife Alice. It's easy to spot the Adriatic through the hilly terrain of Predappio which no doubt plays its part in the coolness of that breeze and the unique character of the wines from up here.

The winery is a packed with stainless tanks, with some barrels tucked away in a dark corner. Most are large Slavonian 'Botti' but there are a few barriques. Thankfully here at Pandolfa they've worked hard to allow the fruit to do the talking, and we are all the better off for it.
What a ripper this wine is. Text book sangiovese from the Tuscan hills. They nail this pretty much every release  but this has just a little extra stuffing and lurking complexity that surprises in all the right way. Some burnished bing cherry fruit, a little raspberry and some briar patch, dried herbs too. Smells like the Tuscan Hills and tastes it too with some iron, ferrous rocky thing interwoven with sour cherry, red fruits and hint of peppercorn like spice. Savoury tannins, thread the mid-weight, fruits and it finishes with crunch and a little bit of a grunt too. Really like this a lot.

From Jericho and Springs Hill in Blewitt Springs, and Smart in Clarendon.

Bright and frisky, strawberry, fresh raspberry, mint and aniseed. Medium-bodied at most, cranberry acidity, a lot of energy, dusty peppery tannin, maybe at the expense of concentration, but gee it's a lively and good wine to drink. Bright, tight, and very frisky. Great drinking. GARY WALSH, The Wine Front

The name for this cracking little producer is Inspired by the Japanese literary masterpiece of the same name, In Praise of Shadows is. For Rob Mack and Brett Trewartha this is somewhat of a  philosophical wine passion project sourcing the best fruit from vineyards around McLaren Vale, many of which are certified organic and bioydnamic. Lo-fi, unfined, unfiltered, and all that jazz. Ultimately though just really flippin delicious.

Full of life, thanks to the healthy tannins and freshness of the blueberry fruit, this has a very satisfying balance of fruit, moderately dry tannins and spicy character, with just a hint of milk chocolate. A blend 49% grenache and 37% syrah, plus small amounts of mourvedre, carignan, marselan and cinsault. Drink now. JAMES SUCKLING

In 2006, the Freys, a family of long standing in the Champagne region and owners of Château La Lagune in Bordeaux, took over Maison Paul Jaboulet Aîné. Caroline the eldest daughter of the family, who has a degree in oenology from Bordeaux, works with her teams in a single minded quest for perfection. Their cutting-edge winemaking, combined with the scrupulous care given to vines grown in exceptional terroirs, encourages one to believe that the greatest vintages are yet to come. And if the last few years are anything to go by it has started already.

Winemaker Daniel Estrin calls this wine one of tension and generosity. A blend of fruit from Eileen, Louise and the Paul Gerrie vineyards, this wine spends 11 months in barrel and four to five months in stainless steel. Effusive florals lead the aromatic display with a bruised apple note and stony petrichor. The palate is honeyed and shows that tension as well, with Pacific-inspired salinity, chamomile and beeswax carrying the finish. DECANTER

What a pretty nose of white peaches, white lavender, hazelnuts and salted almonds. Full-bodied yet fresh, with sleek, salty layers. Excellent texture and complexity. JAMES SUCKLING

The 2021 Chardonnay Eola-Amity Hills is fresh and floral with notes of quince, yellow flowers, and honeycomb. Medium-bodied, with ripe golden fruit on the palate and fresh underlying acidity to balance things out nicely, it's drinking well now and will drink well over the next 4-6 years. JEB DUNNUCK

The 2019 Roero Riserva La Val dei Preti is a rich, resonant wine. Macerated cherry, spice, cedar, worn-in leather, tobacco and dried flowers fill out the layers nicely as this mid-weight Roero gradually opens with a bit of aeration. A wine of substance and character, the 2019 will drink well for another decade or more. ANTONIO GALLONI  

Such stylish packaging, and the theme continues through to the contents of the bottle GARY WALSH

Mark my (James') words. Tillie Johnston is going to become a great winemaker. She began her career in 2012, one of the vintage crew at Coldstream Hills, and says her love for pinot noir began there. She then spent 4 of the next 8 years drifting between the Northern and Southern hemispheres unerringly picking the eyes out of an all-star cast of wineries: Leeuwin Estate, Brokenwood, Cristom (Oregon), Keller (Rheinhessen), Framingham (Marlborough) and Yarra Yering. Since then, she's been assistant winemaker at Giant Steps to Steve Flamsteed and Jess Clark. JAMES HALLIDAY

Watch out for Tillie. She is on the up. You've probably seen us a chat a few times about her wines now and this is the second pack we have put her in. If you didn't guess, we love what she is doing and this aligote from the King Valley is a cracking exanple right from our backyard.

Pure and linear, this wine captures the fine boned structure of a cool growing season. On the palate, baked goods, apple and custard and a subtle nuttiness most likely from the addition of the chardonnay lees. The driving acidity holds the influence of the new oak at bay.

Gold Medal, 96 points, Mornington Peninsula Wine Show 2023

The origin of the name Kangerong can be traced back to the Bunurong People. The surrounding area, now known as the Kangerong basin, is home to our 27 acre family farm; an area which we feel is ideally suited to the Peninsula's more recent agricultural pursuit of wine grape growing - in particular the regional heroes of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

The nose of the Kangerong Pinot has pretty floral notes and subtle spice, kirch like fruit and that little amaro lift you often see in the Mornington. On the palate you'll find black cherries, spice and a velvety texture from thoughtful oak handling. TIght and focused fruit but they flow easily and readily. This looks serious and at once easy-going in its delivery