Atlantic DJ 4th April

We have been enamoured with the mencia based wines of Spaces northwest since first we tried them. Their beautiful lifted nose spiked with mineral accents that flowed onto graceful pallets raked with fine granit like tannins an earthy savouryness at the edges. They are something akin to cru Beaujolias crossed with the finest reds of the loire and we just cant get enough.

Bodegas Pittacum is owned by the Terras Gauda operation and is situated in Argaza in the heart of Bierzo and made from grape sourced from small plots of organically grown 90 year old vines grown in clay soils on steep slopes.

Glace fruits with crème de mure and raspberry coulis flecked with granitic mineral shards. Mid weight styling come from slippery red fruits and a gentle burst of freshness that comes not from acidity but from a deep mineral vein soaked up from the long roots and rocky slopes. Its like a bowl of mixed berry smashed onto rock and is absolutely delightful. If you have not had the wines of the region or mencia this is a belter of an introduction.

Etiqueta Ambar uses grapes from vineyards that are over 40 years' old, mostly in Cambados and Meao in the Salnas Valley on sand and granite soils. Almost Riesling like in terms of structure and acidity (Diego Rios worked in the Mosel Valley) this is stony and intense,with layers of lime cordial, green apple and lemon zest and impressive extract. 2024-29. TIM ATKIN MW

The 2023 Albariño Granbazán Etiqueta Ámbar, sourced from Val do Salnés, undergoes a few hours of skin contact before fermenting and aging eight months on lees. Yellow in color, it presents aromas of white peach, orange blossom and candied citrus. The palate is dry, light and delicately fresh with a slight spritz adding texture. The contrast between the lush nose and the lean palate is intriguing and flavorful. JOAQUIN HIDALGO, Vinous.com

Full bottle 1,245 g. Tasted blind and then tasted again (not blind) several times over several days. Certified sustainable (Fair’N Green). Several months on fine lees.
Delicate and pretty, going from fennel flowers to lemon verbena to lemongrass to lemon sherbet. Gentle but surprisingly deep plashy pools of acidity. Orange citrus and tamarind at the core, that over 10 days softened to buttery saffron. Like all the really good, complex Albariños, it has high-frequency intensity. It feels as if its heart has been hand-drawn with a soft graphite pencil. After being open for days, it just finished on peaches and apricots, as if giving up pretending to be about anything else. JANCIS ROBINSON

The young, balsamic and still faintly medicinal entry-level white 2023 Louro is dense, ripe and powerful at 13.9% alcohol, pungent and intense with a bitter twist in the finish. It’s very tasty, almost salty, with cleanliness and precision, combining power with freshness and elegance. This is quite impressive and a preview of the rest of the 2023s to come.

Luis Gutiérrez, The Wine Advocate

César Márquez Parajes is a coupage of the most prestigious and unique Bierzo plots. Old vines grown as they used to be, without using pesticides or chemicals that can damage the natural balance of the terroir. Each of the plots is worked separately according to their needs and the harvest is carried out manually.

In the winery, 50% of the grapes used to make César Márquez Parajes are destemmed. Then they are pressed in the old-fashioned way, with feet, so that some of them stay whole during fermentation. Fermentation is spontaneous with the grape’s native yeasts. Once the must becomes wine, it is pressed and placed into 225 and 500 litre barrels separately. After 12 months the barrels are emptied and the different wines are combined.

César Márquez Parajes remains true to its roots. A wine that overflows with natural elegance as a result of the quality of the raw material and the expertise of the makers. Freshness with enveloping smoothness. DECANTER

This Godello comes from old vineyards planted right next to the Sil river, in the Seadur village (Ourense), cultivated in slate and decomposed granitic soil. Destemming and short maceration (>4 hours). Soft pressing and static racked of the must in preparation for a slow temperature controlled fermentation in stainless steel tanks.

Translucent and bright pale yellow. In the noseis intense, predominant aromas of ripe apple, water pear, white flesh peach, framed by fennel and anise. In the palate is powerful, voluminous, as well as refreshing with a silky and pleasant finish.

 

A touch of skin contact and extended lees maturation gives this wine a stonier feel than the O Rosal bottling. Raised in small stainless-steel vessels to enrich the texture, it's a chiselled Albariño showing engaging purity, top notes of ripe lemon and sea spray, with plenty of surface and lingering traces of tangy acidity and chalk. Taking its cues from its granite soils, it is a cracking example of the grape and the region.