Eric Rodez Blanc de Noirs Grand Cru Edition 35

The bright copper/straw-colored NV Champagne Blanc De Noirs 35 Brut is a blend of 2018, 2017, 2016, and 2015. It's medium-bodied but full-flavored, with a profound richness and oily texture. IT does have some suppleness, but the electric energy that moves through the wine gives it lift and energy, and it gradually reveals a whole other savory and mineral depth and persistence, lingering on the palate with pithy citrus, raw almond, red and black fruit, and brothy salinity. While it has the impression of volume, the mousse fills with a fine and rounded feel that frames the wine. AUDREY FRICKE

The NV Extra Brut Blanc de Noirs is a pure Pinot Noir largely fermented in oak with most of the wines having avoided malolactic fermentation. Creaminess and creamy oatmeal surround slight hints of plum on the nose. The rich and concentrated palate, with salty soy edges and caramelized apple, makes for intense savoriness. With Pinot-structure and undoubted power, this is nonetheless elegant and poised with bright, fine acidity. Flavors echo long and freshness simply lasts on this clear-cut, bold yet elegant wine. ANNE KREBIEHL MW