Equipo Navazos La Bota 115 Fino 750ml

This is the most renowned pago in Jerez, planted on pure albariza, a white soil high in calcareous microfossils. Equipo Navazos sources the 115 from a bodega that farms their vineyards entirely by hand and without chemical inputs.
My heart stuttered a bit when the glass was set in front of me: rather than the pale-lemon colour I've come to expect in fino, it was a soft apricot, and I worried that it was past its prime. It was not. It smelled fresh and characterful - Could a wine be more Spanish? It smells like the sea, rich, fatty Valencia almonds, orange zest kneaded into yeasty bread dough, a touch of Manzanilla olive brine and a caramelly tang like birch syrup. It's richer and more savoury than any fino I've encountered, with heightened viscosity and concentration. The finish goes on forever. SAMANTHA COLE-JOHNSON, jancisrobinson.com

The NV La Bota de Fino 115 is still 100% from Macharnudo Alto, and they are trying to make a slightly more fluid wine, not like a Fino Amontillado, which was the case with some bottlings coming from the selection of very old soleras. It's slightly different from the previous edition, number 91; this is slightly younger, between seven and eight years of age, but it keeps the same style, just a little more approachable. It's still an old Fino, with notes of esparto grass and volume in the palate. (95) LUIS GUITERREZ, The Wine Advocate

Bottled a few days ago. From the Machurnado vineyard. They have decreased the average age by a couple of years so it's seven or eight years on average and the wine is more refreshing and not so uncomfortably concentrated. Firmer and nuttier than I Think Manzanilla with real tang and bite. Hint of molten dry treacle. Real grip. Neat and convincing. Not yet open - needs a couple of months. JANCIS ROBINSON MW

Wheatie, course ground grains and a background hint of fresh toast with wildflower honey. That alone had me coming back. But the aromatics are multidimensional, they run through a wild, complex and beautifully constructed spectrum, from perfume to damp stone, hay to honey roasted nuts. Crazy nuance and head spinning detail. There is so much involved here, but it is by no means bombastic. These details are, at times, faint little suggestions that mingle amongst more obvious characters. It takes time in the glass and air to shake loose some of the more reticent attributes. But they are so inviting and alluring. It is worth just sitting on a glass for a while. I poured some aside to keep coming back to over a couple of days.
The subtle, though not shy, nose does not prepare you for the impact on your palate.
It hits with some force, there's a lot of flavour here and it begins on impact. From the moment it touches your mouth it is a crazy dance. Intense, unusually concentrated and powerful for the style. Loaded up with character and brimming with confidence. This is a Sherry of presence and stature, however it does not depart from the things that we all love in Fino. Salty. Oh, so salty. Fresh feeling, it pops with a sense of spring in the mouth but then leans in to autumnal notes as it slowly, so very slowly, fades away. A final twang of salinity and chalky texture on the incredibly long finish, reminds you exactly what you are drinking.
This is both thoroughly and utterly delicious as well as deeply convincing and totally spellbinding. I love it! ROSCOE