Dhondt Grellet Cramant Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru NV (2020 base)

The NV Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Cramant is sourced from two lieux-dits: La Garenne (planted in 1969 and 1970), defined by deep sandy-clay topsoil, and Les Longues Verges (planted in 1985), with chalkier soil but reduced yields due to le court-noué virus. The stricter, more incisive profile of La Garenne is balanced by the concentration and broad-shouldered musculature of Les Longues Verges. Disgorged in July 2024 with 2.5 grams per liter dosage, this new release is based on the 2021 vintage, complemented by 30% of a historical blend. Concentrated and textural, it’s framed by a patina from maturation in barrels (around one-third new). Despite the high-acid vintage base, the wine is expressive and harmonious, offering notes of lemon zest, cedar nut, smoke and toast. It has a bright, lively personality, concluding with an immensely long, saline finish. Its quality and potential are a testament both the judicious élevage and the visionary work in the vineyards. (96) KRISTAPS KARKLINS, The Wine Advocate

The NV Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Cramant Grand Cru is based on the 2019 vintage, harvested from 50-year-old vines, with a 30% addition of a perpetual reserve dating back to 1986. This is from two plots: La Garennes on richer soils that used to be market gardens, and Les Longes Verges with less topsoil, infected by fanleaf virus which results in small, concentrated grapes. The nose has fresh apple notes and the merest touch of crumbled chicken stock cube. The palate is beautifully taut, notwithstanding the ripeness Dhondt aims for, and a cut-through saltiness with a pure, bright lemon freshness. Slight phenolics on the finish add structure. Dosage is 1gr/L. Disgorged: October, 2022. (94) ANNE KREBIEHL MW, Vinous