Charvin Chateauneuf du Pape 2020 1500mL

This great Chateauneuf combines the richness of the vintage with remarkable precision and vitality. Stacks of ripe damson plum, licorice and candied orange. Great tannin structure and lots of power on the full-bodied palate, with bitter chocolate and a stony character that builds at the very long, super-focused finish. From organically grown grapes. (97) JAMES SUCKLING

Another beautiful wine from Laurent, his 2020 Châteauneuf Du Pape is a classic blend of 82% Grenache, 5% each of Syrah and Mourvedre, and the rest Vaccarese and Counoise, all from the northern part of the appellation, aged in tank. Perfumed red fruits, rose petals, spice, and sappy, peppery garrigue all flow to a medium to full-bodied, seamless 2020 with silky tannins, wonderful balance, and a great finish. It needs 3-5 years in the cellar to hit the early stages of its drink window, where it should keep nicely for over a decade. JEB DUNNUCK

Little herbal note to the fruit bringing some complexity, this is saline, light, fresh, fluid and drinkable. Plenty of texture and interest to the fruit, with really searching tannins. Needs time to come round, will be elegant and charming when it does. Fruit, structure, fragrance and energy - it's got the lot. Very Charvin. Organically grown in the northwest of the appellation, in lieux-dits Cabrières and Maucoil where there's galets roulés and sand. It's fermented and then aged for 21 months in concrete using indigenous yeasts, then bottled unfiltered. MATT WALLS, Decanter