Bollinger RD 2008

When I was tasting Bollinger's brilliant Grande Année in this vintage, I was trying to imagine how good the 2008 Extra-Brut R. D. would be, as the style of the vintage seems almost perfectly adapted to this cuvée. Four years later, we have the answer, and the wine is brilliant. Disgorged in 2022, it's more reserved out of the gates than the dramatic Grande Année was on release, unwinding in the glass with notes of crisp orchard fruit, orange peel, freshly baked bread, subtle hints of fino sherry, wet stones and macadamia nut. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, with a deep core of fruit that's animated by racy acids and a refined pinpoint mousse, concluding with a bone-dry finish. Extremely harmonious and full of youthful energy, it's the finest R. D. of the decade and one that will richly reward a bit of additional age on cork. In style, the most obvious comparison is with the 1996, but the 2008 is more integrated and harmonious on release. These bottles were disgorged late last year with three grams per liter dosage. (98) WILLIAM KELLEY, The Wine Advocate

Bollinger’s 2008 R.D. is a powerful, vinous Champagne. Apricot, dried pear, tangerine oil, hazelnut, dried flowers, chamomile and brioche all race across the palate. The 2008 boasts notable depth and textural intensity, with a feeling of phenolic, almost tannin-driven grip from the Pinot that propels the finish.

At times the R.D. is quite exotic, even if there is a good kick of energy from the bright, salivating acids and low dosage. The 2008 R.D. is very much a Champagne for the dinner table, a wine that benefits immensely from aeration. In 2008, the blend comprises fruit from 18 villages, 71% Pinot Noir, mostly from Aÿ and Verzenay and 29% Chardonnay, mostly from Mesnil-sur-Oger and Cramant. Dosage is 3 grams of dosage. I would give this a few more years in bottle to fully come together. Disgorged: October 28, 2022. (96) ANTONIO GALLONI, Vinous

The late-disgorged edition of La Grande Année 2008 continues to dazzle, showing beautifully controlled, promising evolution since its debut in 2023. Roasted hazelnut, brown pastry and buttery apricot tart hint at decadence, with the nut-milk creaminess and iodine-like notes of RD still held in check beneath the sheer force of the vintage’s drive and citric energy. A huge, buzzing finish promises longer life still for this show-stopping Champagne. 71% Pinot Noir and 29% Chardonnay from the Montagne de Reims, Grande Vallée de la Marne and the Côte des Blancs, vinified in old oak barrels and disgorged by hand after 13 years on lees. (97) TOM HEWSON, Decanter