William Fevre Chablis Premier Cru Vaulorent 2023

WORTH A SPECIAL SEARCH - Ultra fine - again not ultra-large - but what precision to these aromas. Mineral, fluid, beautifully pure - that's not got as much impact as some wines here - the purity, precision and elegance are first rate. BILL NANSON, The Burgundy Report

Sourced from the upper part of the climat and planted with 40- to 60-year-old vines, the 2023 Chablis 1er Cru Vaulorent wafts from the glass with a deep bouquet of lemon oil, white flowers, orange peel, peach, pear and a delicate reductive signature. Medium- to full-bodied, concentrated and layered, it is framed by ample, chalky structuring extract and racy acidity, concluding with a persistent, saline finish. This is a terrific performer once again. WINE ADVOCATE

SWEET SPOT, OUTSTANDING - Prominent white flower aromas are nuanced by notes of algae, citrus confit and shellfish scents. The succulent yet nicely tension-filled flavors exude evident minerality on the sappy, more complex and more concentrated finish that delivers excellent length. The Fourchaume and Montée de Tonnerre are both quality efforts, but this already has another dimension. BURGHOUND

The Vaulorent from Fèvre is more mineral than its Montée de Tonnerre, if a bit less lush, with aromas of lime peel, mirabelle plum, and passion fruit. The texture is chiselled and concentrated, with layers of tightly wound extract and a dense, chalky finish. The grapes are from 3.6ha in Vaulorent, which is part of Fourchaume but located on the side of the grands crus. Winemaker Didier Séguier chooses his favourite blocks for this bottling and crafts a 'classic' Fourchaume from the rest (95) DECANTER

FIVE STARS - Pale but glowing, a note of citron confit, an additional depth compared to the Fourchaume. More flesh but perfectly proportioned, fine and elegant, and very long indeed. This should be first class. Flavours will absolutely not go away! As much yellow as white but balanced. (95) JASPER MORRIS MW