Stefano Lubiana Collina Chardonnay 2023

Tightly wound aromas of lemon peel, lime curd, orange blossoms and flint. The palate is medium-bodied with laser-like acidity and a creamy texture, giving notes of mandarin rind, white nectarines and red apple skin. Made from select hillside parcels and treated with a light hand in the winery. Pure class. (96) JAMES SUCKLING

FIVE STARS - Meyer lemon, mandarin pith and subtle fine cedar mark the opening, before a swirl of the glass unlocks pastry dough, grapefruit, nougat, yellow apple and further citrus preserves. Some sweet citrus blossom lift with further air, adding prettiness to the perfume. There's a lot going here, and it all works. The palate is sapid and textural, with Meyer lemon and savoury cedar taking charge and mandarin oil, yellow apple, preserved lemon and grapefruit in tow. Big acidity here, and it's a great feature as it coils around the fulsome feel of the palate, drawing tension and length through a long, concentrated finish. This is an impactful and impressive Chardonnay of power, detail and complexity (96) JASPER MORRIS MW

The incredibly impressive 2023 Chardonnay Collina radiates strength and detail. The nose offers waves of oat bran, peach skin, flowers and nectarines, with understated savoury notes in the background. Explosive flavors follow, firm acidity lending precision and definition through to a fine finish of exceptional length. This is a very serious wine that will only get better with time. (95) ANGUS HUGHSON, Vinous Media

Chardonnay of silty grey loam over white gravelly clay on the Lubiana estate in the Derwent Valley. Light straw with aromas of white peach, nectarine and citrus with a wisp of struck-flint complexity and hints of grilled nuts, nougat, pressed flowers, almond paste, light vanillin oak, clotted cream and crushed stone. Lemon curd unfurls on the palate. The flow of fruit shows some richness and yellow plum tones, with an extended creamy finish and fine, lacy acidity driving thing along nicely. A mouth-filling style with a lot of class. DAVE BROOKES, James Halliday's Wine Companion

The 2023 Collina Chardonnay is floral and white, with pineapple, nectarine and green apple, sugared almond, a hint of marzipan, ground nuts/meal and scraped vanilla pod. This is a gorgeous wine, one of light and dark accents, shadows and illumination, lifted spice and dense fruit. It's a beautiful wine that comes heartily recommended. (96) ERIN LARKIN, Wine Advocate

Interesting that oak should be mentioned because it's so well handled here. It shows, but it's a slip of a thing, and it's slipped into the salty, smoky, citrussy highlights of the wine, which allows the wine's grapefruit heart to shimmer. This is a firm, elongated wine from a cool year, sophisticated, gently waxy, whispered with flint. Its power is both coiled and inherent. It's for the cellar. CAMPBELL MATTINSON, Wine Front