Sottimano Cotta Barbaresco 2021

This wine comes from a 2.8-hectare vineyard purchased by Andrea Sottimano's father in 1969. Today, the vines are 80 years old and planted in very wide spacing that once had vegetables and artichokes between the rows. The soils are sandy like in Rabajà and Asili. The 2021 Barbaresco Cottá was the last wine in our flight. That's because it has the biggest concentration and richness. It offers a full bouquet with sweet berry fruits, dried herb and dark spice. It makes a big impact on the palate, and it shows an intense, long-lasting mouthfeel. All of these Sottimano wines are racked into oak sometime after January, and malolactic fermentation proceeds very slowly (finishing at the end of summer or closer to harvest). This gives the wine a reductive character. The aromas here are very delicate and fine with carob, forest fruit, orange rind and blue flower. The tannins are powdery and fine. This beautiful Nebbiolo drinks like a Pinot Noir (97) MONICA LARNER

Intense aromas of iris mingle with fresh cranberry, ground clove and camphor on the fabulous Cottà from Sottimano. Focused and elegantly structured, the delicious, balanced palate features juicy red cherry, crushed raspberry, star anise and saline alongside vibrant acidity and firm, fine-grained tannins. What a beauty. 2028-2036. (97) KERIN O'KEEFE

The 2021 Barbaresco Cottá is quite the powerhouse. As usual, it is marked by a huge mid-palate of fruit, but more classic winemaking these days keeps that in check while also adding the notable structural dimension to balance things out. Black cherry, licorice, incense, graphite, tobacco and scorched earth all build in a virile, potent Barbaresco to treasure for the next two decades. This has come together beautifully since I tasted it last year. (96) ANTONIO GALLONI