Ronco dei Tassi Bianco Fosarin 2020

A 40/40/20 blend of pinot grigio, friulano and malvasia and aged in a mix of stainless steel and some smaller oak. Like flavour and aromatics in your wine? Here's one for you. The notional icon white of the estate, Fosarin gives you Friuli in a glass. The aromatic is an evocative and decadent combo of pear, cooked down apple and, more than anything, a wonderful overlay of exotic spice floats above the whole thing - think the Middle East, Iranian fairy floss, musk and rose water.

On the palate, the wine gives you all this again couched within a rich-but-not-overweight texture which instead lends gravitas to the wine. In one sense this wine gives you the impression that this wine may have too much of everything - flavour, texture and mouth aromas are intense - but in fact, the underlying acidity acts like the spear on a shish kebab holding all the decadence close to the core. Perfect food wine and having tasted many older vintages over the years, don't be afraid to keep some in the cellar, it handles ages without decay. A ripper. MICHAEL MCNAMARA