Groffier Vintage 2023 Dinner
Nicolas Groffier today presides over this eight-hectare domaine, where cordon pruning is the order of the day in the vineyards, and which is blessed with an enviable patrimony of terroirs. Groffier had racked his 2023s to tank shortly before my visit, in preparation for their bottling, telling me that he elected to destem everything in this abundant vintage. Percentages of new wood are increasingly modest and carefully chosen, and the wines privilege fruit and texture. This was my first visit to Groffier's cellars, and I look forward to getting to know his wines better over the years to come. WILLIAM KELLEY
The Groffier family are among the best wine makers in the Côte de Nuits. Originally founded by Robert Groffier’s father, Jules in the 1950s, the domaine is now run by Robert’s grandson, Nicolas. PEARL OF BURGUNDY
This domaine is heroic for some, under the radar for others. I wonder if one reason for the latter point of view is because, whereas the vineyards are predominantly in Chambolle-Musigny, the domaine itself is located in Morey-St-Denis where they own virtually no vineyard land, excepting some Bourgogne Passetoutgrains and a sliver of village Morey – which gets put in the Passetoutgrains JASPER MORRIS MW
When Nicolas Grofier is telling you about his wines he talks with the distracted air of an artist and at times, while describing this or that plot or wine's characteristics, he stares off into the ether lost in his own thoughts, and for that moment, you can tell he's forgotten you're there at all. He speaks with precision and with the utmost care for each word he chooses. In this way he's a slightly odd guy to taste with but I don't mean that as a negative. The point really is that you know you're in a tasting beyond simply pouring wine in a glass. At Groffier you get an experience where the wines are stratospherically great but also where the presentation by the man who makes them, carries more information, more depth and gravitas. The wine quality makes you want to find out more and he gives you more.
Following on from that there are a couple of keys add-ons.
Domaine ??????Groffier have always been regarded as one of the top ten domaines in Burgundy. Under the stewardship of Nicolas' dad and especially his grandad the wines gained huge critical acclaim, despite the fact they rarely let journalists through the gate. If you ever get the chance to taste an older vintage of Groffier jump on it, they rarely disappoint. Those wines were bot great and also creatures of the stylistic preferences of the times. Mainly, that meant a little more oak in the elevage.
What's changed with Nicolas? In a nutshell, he views each new vintage as totally new! He doesn't have a template, there are some things that he does most years for sure - but mostly his view is shaped completely by what he sees in the fruit each vintage. In 2022 for example, he used a lot of stems where others didn't and in 2023 he totally destemmed while most didn't. Point is, he marches to the beat of his own drum with little care for what his peers are doing and in my experience, he's always spot on. In this way he reminds me of a guy like Roberto Conterno in Barolo, when the other zig, they zag.
The 2023s are a beautiful and ethereal set of wines. I think I prefer them to the richer wines of 2022 at this domaine. They're more lifted; soaring aromatics of florals and fruits as well as spice and beautifully expressive of the mineral, sub-soil elements that drive the wines. Palate-wise, they carry ripe fruit and slippery textures. Those textures and fruit profiles go high and low depending on the clay or limestone in the vineyards. It's a wild and exhilarating ride when you taste them. What's more, when you're drinking these wines you know you're in a different league; these are the kind of wines that transport you via extra levels of complexity. They're aristocratic and beautiful
The Haut Doix and Sentier 1er Crus are an essay in Chambolle terroir. The former sits alongside Les Amoureuses and the base soil are limestone dominant, making for a fragrant and nuanced expression. In Sentiers the red clays not dissimilar to neighbouring Bonnes Mares is a darker fruited and more muscular red Burgundy. They're beautiful in their contrast and explanation of why Burgundy is so intriguing. I have a particular love of the Haut Doix but Sentiers in 2023 is challenging that preference.
The Gevrey Chambertin Seuvrees is another animal. It has fast become a customer favourite. It's got the turned earth and mineral line of Gevrey and also shows a darker black and blue fruit persona. It's very lovely Burgundy and I think for the money, it's a bargain wine in this range.
And then there's The Big Four .
As I alluded to earlier and as we reported last year, Groffier own the largest piece of the famed Chambolle Cru Les Amoureuses - in total they own a 1.12 hectare chunk. Les Amoureuses is often called the princess of Chambolle, owing to the Groffier owns plots across all the geological zones of the cru. This is important because a few years ago, Nicolas decided he wanted to divide his one Les Amoureuses into two separate wines to reflect the two dominant soil types of his plots - clay and limestone.
Les Amoureuses
The La Grace des Argiles represents the red clays of the site. Of the two expressions it's a deeper pitched, darker fruit profile, think red merging to dark cherry. The texture too shows the influence of the clays; more robust, more muscle in the structure frames that darker fruit element. The combined result is a wine that that's sexy and supple but that keeps an overriding Amoureuses fine-ness to it.
Its opposite number, Deikicatesse des Sables, is the more lifted, and aromatics lean into the red fruits and delicate florals spectrum; perhaps a little more what you expect from Les Amoureuses, with its reputation for a more feminine expression. Texturally too, the different soils come into play giving the wine more drying minerality, lending the tannins a more direct, immediacy. If I had to pick a favourite of the two, this would be it for me but there's not much in it.
No other producer has ever done this (to my knowledge) and while the intellectual exercise is fascinating, neither wine loses anything of its Les Amoureuses feel, in fact I think the two lead you to a greater understanding of the plot as a whole. They are exceptional red Burgundy and apart from anything reignite the old argument as to whether, Les Amoureuses should be promoted to Grand Cru status.
Bonnes Mares
Moving right on the vineyard map and it's Nicolas' Bonnes Mares. Now, Bonnes Mares to me has always been a pretty hard beast to understand in terms of its place in the Grand Cru dress-circle. So many present as dour and blockish. Nicolas Groffier believes that the fruit has always been misjudged (by himself included) and that attempting to make the wine as statuesque is a mistake.
A few years ago he changed his methodology and set about "lightening up" the wine. The result, for me at least, is the best Bonnes Mares I've ever seen. It's like a heavy blanket has been removed from the front of a speaker; all of a sudden there's detail and clarity but also the depth of minerality pulses through the wine. A sleeper in this range you should always grab.
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Pierre Peters Cuvee de Reserve Brut NV
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It shines in this blend with clarity, precision and excellent freshness of apple, pear, grapefruit and lemon. All the theatrics of his masterful reserve solera build out a backdrop layered with enticing brioche and mixed spice. Its fruit presence contrasts a well-poised malic acid line, with the magnificent frothing salt mineral structure of Le Mesnil singing loud and clear… TYSON STELZER, The Champagne Guide
A precise, crystalline wine, the NV Brut Cuvée de Réserve is the perfect wine with which to explore the Péters Champagnes. Lemon peel white, flowers and slate are super-expressive throughout in a Champagne that impresses with its finely-sculpted personality and energy. The Cuvée de Réserve is quite powerful, but never heavy. Slightly tropical overtones add the final shades of nuance. It remains one of the best values in artisan Champagne. ANTONIO GALLONINVChampagneFrance376$150.00 As low as $135.00 -
Domaine Robert Groffier Bonnes Mares Grand Cru 2021One third off terre blanche and two thirds off terre rouge - mix of clay and limestone. He says the mistake in the past with Bonnes Mares is that people tried to make it too serious and dour when he thinks to make a success of the wine it should be made to be accessible and ready - "like jazz music" PWS
50% new wood. A glowing imperial purple. Very sensual deep red berry fruit infused with the white pepper. Noticeable tension, in part from higher acidity, more raspberry than strawberry at the finish, proportionately lighter than the Sentiers within its classification, yet with a long, refined finish. Drink from 2028-2038. JASPER MORRIS
2021Pinot noirFrance358$2,250.00 As low as $2,025.00 -
Domaine Robert Groffier Gevrey Chambertin Les Seuvrées 2021Just under Charmes, limestone base here. 60 year old vines. PWS
A purer crimson purple with a little more direct fruit on the nose. This is lovely, not too marked by the processing, with an intensity of raspberry, an interesting grainy texture behind, lightly astringent but with the fruit all round. Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted: November 2022. JASPER MORRIS
2021Pinot noirFrance358$430.00 As low as $387.00 -
Robert Groffier Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Haut Doix 2021Limestone soils and in shade by 5pm which helps in the warmer vintages. He says, "it has a clear soul". 100% whole bunch, 25% new oak. PWS
These vines suffered less as pruned on the slow to start cordon de royat system. 35% new wood. A bright crimson ruby. This wine for the first time has the white pepper nose of the whole bunches, surrounded by a juicy vibrant red cherry fruit. If you like the whole bunch style this will be exciting. JASPER MORRIS
2021Pinot noirFrance358$650.00 As low as $585.00 -
Domaine Robert Groffier Bonnes Mares Grand Cru 202250 % new wood and 90% whole bunch vinification. Picked on the second day. A heady bright purple. The bouquet is backward but suggesting a classical fruit profile, more raspberry than strawberry, with enough density that the whole bunch effect is not so evident. Now a little white pepper. A beautiful expression of dark raspberry fruit on the nose, just a little acidity, with great sense of balance (98) JASPER MORRIS MW
Nicolas Groffier produced a classic Bonnes Mares from his one-hectare holding, with dark damson plum and mulberry fruit aromas and hints of cedar, smoke, and pepper. The structure is firmly tannic, solid, and dense, but not heavy or ungainly – muscular elegance, one might say. The parcel is in one solid piece near the Morey end of the village; Nicolas describes it as being 75% terres rouges and 25% terres blanches; the grapes are entirely fermented as whole clusters with a gentle extraction CHARLES CURTIS MW, Decanter
2022Pinot noirFrance358$2,250.00 As low as $2,025.00 -
Domaine Robert Groffier Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses - La Grace des Argiles 2022The recipe for both 2022 Amoureuses wines is 30% new wood and 100% whole bunches. The Grâce des Argiles comes from the bottom section of the vineyard, grown on red clay. A solid rich bouquet yet absolutely with its seductive charm. A velvet covering on a big frame with a delicious richness of fruit without losing the precision of the year. A superb fruit weight, yet with energy from a sufficiently mineral acidity to finish. (98) JASPER MORRIS MW
Nicolas Groffier knows his Amoureuses - his domaine is the largest owner. From 2022, he will separate the portion just below Musigny, with sandier soils, from the rest, which he calls 'normal Amoureuses' from the bottom of the steep slope to the flat part next to Musigny. The grapes are entirely fermented as whole clusters but with gentle extraction and almost no punching down. The result is a deep blackberry fruit with hints of bramble, earth, and mint; the texture is firm, dense, and tannic. (96) CHARLES CURTIS MW, Decanter
Airy, floral, ultra-pretty aromatics. Beautiful in the mouth, supported by a small grain of tannin but with fine fluidity and I come back to this word again - precision. BILL NANSON, Burgundy Report2022Pinot noirFrance358Special Price $1,795.00 Regular Price $2,250.00 -
Domaine Robert Groffier Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses 2021WORTH A SPECIAL SEARCH - Width of high-toned aroma - perfume - a hint more herbed greenery in this complexity. Wow texture and flavour mobility - that's a great wine in the mouth. Sinuous, almost sensual, fading in a fine and quite mineral width. It's a nose short of being a great wine yet this is still clearly a great one! BILL NANSON, Burgundy Report
A fine deep purple. Plumper softer richer on the nose at first sniff but very soon develops a depth and a refinement, with darker fruit. The 2021 reminds Nicolas of the 2006 Amoureuses. Lower acidity helps give the impression of sumptuousness, and the light astringency of the vinification adds the necessary tension. Gorgeous aftertaste (95) JASPER MORRIS MW2021Pinot noirFrance358Special Price $1,795.00 Regular Price $2,250.00 -
Domaine Robert Groffier Gevrey Chambertin Les Seuvrées 202320% new wood. A deep purple centre with bright rim. Classical pinot, perhaps more raspberry and cherry rather than the strawberry often found in this part of the appellation. A sweet intensity of fruit in the same register as the bouquet, with fine tannins, good acidity and length. JASPER MORRIS2023Pinot noirFrance358$460.00 As low as $414.00 -
Domaine Robert Groffier Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Haut Doix 2023The 2023 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Hauts Doix is pretty, offering up an ethereal bouquet of red berries, orange zest, rose petals and spices. Medium to full-bodied, pure and fleshy, it's suave and refined, with melting tannins and a saline, mineral finish. WILLIAM KELLEY
One of my favourites Chez Groffier: the charming and delicate Les Hauts Doix. The fruit comes from vines just north of Les Amoureuses, alongside the road between Chambolle and Vougeot. With one-third new oak, this is expressive and very lively. Phenolics are ripe and the wine has a good density. Love the fresh and vivid 2023 fruit. Drink from 2031. WINEHOG
2023Pinot noirFrance358$650.00 As low as $585.00 -
Domaine Robert Groffier Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Sentiers 2023The 2023 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Sentiers is deeper and more brooding than the ethereal Haut Doigts, offering up aromas of sweet red fruits, blackberries, spices and licorice. Medium to full-bodied, with powdery tannins and a lively core of fruit, it's broader-shouldered, reflecting its origins in red soils below Bonnes Mares. WILLIAM KELLEY
2023Pinot noirFrance358$395.00 As low as $355.50 -
Domaine Robert Groffier Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses - La Grace des Argiles 2023One third new wood. A rich deep dark purple. Plenty of depth, a rounded style, dark fruit but short of black, dark raspberry, medium plus concentration. Significant energy further back on the palate, now a redder style of fruit, good acidity, alongside the comfortable pillow of Amoureuses. (97) JASPER MORRIS MW
Nicolas Groffier has separated the part of the vineyard that slopes quickly down to the source of the Vouge where the soils are clay and marl, and not the Premeaux limestone prominent on the upper part. This section has given a deeply-coloured wine that is initially a bit closed on the attack but opens up on the palate with lush aromas of mulberry fruit, smoke, spice and earth. The texture is powerful and muscular. Fermented mostly as whole clusters and is now ageing in one-third new casks. (96) CHARLES CURTIS MW, Decanter
The 2023 Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses 1er Cru, which was bottled just before Christmas, has a delightful bouquet, very pure with macerated Morello cherries, raspberry and veins of blueberry-quintessential Amoureuses. The palate is stylish on the entry with pliant tannins, but there is tangible weight and density (albeit not to the degree of more concentrated vintages). Delivering impressive complexity towards the finish, this is a wonderful Chambolle from Nicolas Groffier, an Amoureuses to fall in love with. (97) NEAL MARTIN
The southern Amoureuses, is showing very well in 2023. It is like the previous vintages- more complete, and perhaps fuller than the Amoureuses produced solely from the limestone top of the vineyard. This has very good intensity and concentration- great for collectors who are not mineral fanatics. A vin d emotion. Different notes and flavours, but it works very well indeed. Drink from 2034. WINEHOG2023Pinot noirFrance358Special Price $1,860.00 Regular Price $2,325.00 -
Domaine Robert Groffier Bonnes Mares Grand Cru 2023The Groffier Bonnes Mares is a refined and delicate wine made with 100% de-stemmed grapes. This is quite remarkable as the last vintage of Bonnes Mares was 100% whole cluster. A new cuvee has been created from the white chalky soil at the top of the vineyards (see tasting note below), so this cuvee has a larger percentage of clay-based soils than normal. This gives a deeper and creamier wine. A treat with a delightful balance and depth. A lovely cuvee. Encore!! Drink from 2038. WINEHOG
The 2023 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru was completely destemmed, like Groffier's other cuvées this vintage, and matured in 50% new oak. Unlike the Les Amoureuses, this needed time to open in the glass. Blackberry, briar, black pepper and light iris flower scents emerge with time, but this is a more bashful Bonnes-Mares for the moment. The palate is medium-bodied with a little more backbone than the Amoureuses and perhaps more sapidity. It's maybe uncompromising in some ways, but nothing wrong with that. The Les Amoureuses has a little more sensuality, but this is still a very fine Grand Cru for long term aging. WILLIAM KELLEY
Nicolas Groffier estimates that his holding of Bonnes Mares is a little more than two-thirds on red soil. 50% new wood. A rich deep purple. This is very Bonnes Mares with its slightly wilder side. Not hyper concentrated but with a noble quality to the dark red fruit, raspberry and boysenberry, good acidity, tannins present but in balance, and a little bit of oak which will soon integrate. JASPER MORRIS
The Bonnes-Mares from Groffier is a burly, muscular wine as can often be the case in this appellation. The aromas range from ripe plum and cherry, to fresh flowers and a bit of peppery spice. The structure is tannic and dense, with plenty of tannins and the substance to age for the long term. The grapes are from one hectare, most of it planted on the iron-rich ‘terres rouge’ soils, but the parcel stretches the entire slope. The grapes were fermented mostly as whole clusters, and the wine is ageing at present in cask, half new. CHARLES CURTIS, www.decanter.com
2023Pinot noirFrance358$2,215.00 As low as $1,993.50