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Domaine Robert Groffier Bonnes Mares Grand Cru 2023
DOZEN: $23,922.00 or $1,993.50 each
The Groffier Bonnes Mares is a refined and delicate wine made with 100% de-stemmed grapes. This is quite remarkable as the last vintage of Bonnes Mares was 100% whole cluster. A new cuvee has been created from the white chalky soil at the top of the vineyards (see tasting note below), so this cuvee has a larger percentage of clay-based soils than normal. This gives a deeper and creamier wine. A treat with a delightful balance and depth. A lovely cuvee. Encore!! Drink from 2038. WINEHOG
The 2023 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru was completely destemmed, like Groffier's other cuvées this vintage, and matured in 50% new oak. Unlike the Les Amoureuses, this needed time to open in the glass. Blackberry, briar, black pepper and light iris flower scents emerge with time, but this is a more bashful Bonnes-Mares for the moment. The palate is medium-bodied with a little more backbone than the Amoureuses and perhaps more sapidity. It's maybe uncompromising in some ways, but nothing wrong with that. The Les Amoureuses has a little more sensuality, but this is still a very fine Grand Cru for long term aging. WILLIAM KELLEY
Nicolas Groffier estimates that his holding of Bonnes Mares is a little more than two-thirds on red soil. 50% new wood. A rich deep purple. This is very Bonnes Mares with its slightly wilder side. Not hyper concentrated but with a noble quality to the dark red fruit, raspberry and boysenberry, good acidity, tannins present but in balance, and a little bit of oak which will soon integrate. JASPER MORRIS
The Bonnes-Mares from Groffier is a burly, muscular wine as can often be the case in this appellation. The aromas range from ripe plum and cherry, to fresh flowers and a bit of peppery spice. The structure is tannic and dense, with plenty of tannins and the substance to age for the long term. The grapes are from one hectare, most of it planted on the iron-rich ‘terres rouge’ soils, but the parcel stretches the entire slope. The grapes were fermented mostly as whole clusters, and the wine is ageing at present in cask, half new. CHARLES CURTIS, www.decanter.com