German Grand Cru Rielsing Masterclass & Supper

Intensely flint with stacks of wild herb aromas, this is a powerful dry riesling that is very straight on the medium- to full-bodied palate. Very focused with a compact, stony core, this has excellent concentration and precision in the long, driving finish. (96) STUART PIGOTT, James Suckling

The 2023 Pettenthal Nierstein Riesling VDP.GG shows a bright, clear, finely spicy, mineral and complex nose of broken rock. Very elegant and vital as well as delicate on the palate, it has ripe, dense but elegant fruit and stimulating salty acidity on the finish, which has good length. This will be more brilliant in a year or two. STEPHAN REINHARDT, Wine Advocate

The 2023 Riesling Niersteiner Pettenthal Grosses Gewächs offers creaminess, peppery lemon balm, ripe red apple crunchiness and intense iron-oxide and petrichor savor, all still wrapped in enticing reductive tones. The palate is smooth and streamlined, moving forward with grace, determination and emollience. Everything here is buffered, but at the core, bright citrus tanginess tingles, edged with mouthwatering saltiness. Beautifully coherent, seamless and flowing, this seems to sink deeper into its red stone nature, leaving a spicy, peppery aftertaste that's as much informed by fine acidity as by veil-like phenolics. ANNE KREBIEHL MW

This stunning expression of the great Rothenberg site is still very tightly wound, the flintiness very pronounced in the first moment, the delicate white peach and wild berry fruit expanding like a rosebud slowly opening during a period of cool weather. Underplayed power and concentration on the extremely precise, medium-bodied palate. Tremendous finesse in the very long, filigreed finish. (97) STUART PIGOTT, James Suckling

Gunderloch's 2023 Rothenberg Nackenheim Riesling VDP.GG impresses with a deep, very clear and terroir-influenced nose of Rotliegend rock, along with elegant fruit aromas of ripe stone fruit and herbal-spicy notes. Gentle and elegant on the palate, dense and balanced and juicy, carried by elegant, ripe acidity, this Rothenberg develops a concentrated and long-lasting finish that reflects the warm vintage as well as the good water supply. It is persistently salty, with citrusy freshness in the complex aftertaste. STEPHAN REINHARDT, Wine Advocate

The 2023 Riesling Nackenheimer Rothenberg Grosses Gewächs still rings with the finest flinty reduction on the nose. Underneath comes a gorgeous streak of pink grapefruit peel, lifted, serene and almost heady with crushed lemongrass and lemon balm. The palate is buffered but shows a clear vein of agile fluidity and serene, sleek, dynamic movement. Leaving gorgeous traces of stony, irony, savory saltiness and unfolding with Seville orange and tangerine, it's layered, beautiful, soothing, refreshing and long. Citrus zest lingers on the finish ANNE KREBIEHL MW

Radically smoky and massively structured in spite of being only medium-bodied, this astonishingly dry riesling expresses the personality of this volcanic site with great authority and precision. So much spice, structure and hardness in the positive sense, meaning that this is not a wine for the faint of heart. Massive power in the imposing finish, yet absolutely clean and bright. (98) STUART PIGOTT, James Suckling

The 2023 Schlossböckelheimer Felsenberg Riesling trocken GG is beautifully pure, clear and bright or even coolish on the deep and complex nose that is still remarkably discreet but refined for this warm, volcanic terroir and offers elegant notes of melting stones and domestic seed fruits. Round, refined and elegant on the palate, this is a generous, juicy and fruity Riesling with fine tannins and a long, intense, spicy and aromatic, finely saline and mineral finish. This is a mouth-filling, complex and textured Riesling with crunchy tannins on the finish. It's a superb 2023 that should develop beautifully over the years in the bottle STEPHAN REINHARDT, Wine Advocate

The 2023 Riesling Schlossböckelheimer Felsenberg Felsentürmchen Grosses Gewächs is picked in the fully south-facing site of porphyry and melaphyr. Cornelius Dönnhoff says this is the most challenging site to work, simply because the stones are so hard and unforgiving, retaining almost no water. Thus, a year like 2023 was brilliant for this site. It is always the first GG site to be harvested because the rock retains heat from the day. Tender reduction still casts a flinty spell on the nose. Lovely savor implies crushed citrus foliage merged into iron oxide on the nose. The palate is taut, citric, bright with immense linearity, moving with absolute ease and direction, with energy and punch, towards a zesty, cool finish, long, sustained, all with savor and saltiness. The 2023 is a total joy of clarity, direction and stony poise. This is so elegant, so slender, so powerful, and no, this is not a contradiction. ANNE KREBIEHL MW

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The 2018 Riesling Ürziger Würzgarten Unterst Pichter Grosses Gewächs Réserve Alte Reben is a late release. The wine spent two years on lees in Fuder and four years in bottle before release. Intense lift on the nose mixes with some persistent reductive funk for the first few minutes but also reveals some creaminess and hints of wet earth. More air reveals chervil and lemon balm aromas. The palate is intense with berry flavors, almost with a sense of red berry compote, completely set off by creamy citric intensity and an edge of apple freshness. The 2018 is complex, savory, light and balm-like with a slightly yeasty, diffuse finish. (Bone-dry) (94) ANNE KREBEHL MW, Vinous

From the Rotliegendes, a red, weathered conglomerate of volcanic origin, and aged in fuder for two years and another two years in bottle, the 2019 Ürziger Würzgarten Unterst Pichter GG Réserve Alte Reben opens very clear and defined on the deep, intense and elegant, nicely reductive and flinty nose that reveals notes of crushed stones and herbs along with dense yet elegant ripe yellow fruit aromas. Tight, fresh and pure on the palate, this is a rich, round and elegant Riesling with caramel nuances and a complex, savory and finely tannic finish with persistent power. The Réserve wines are pretty different in style from Loosen's GG Rieslings; they're richer, more powerful and tannic with less Mosel charm, finesse and perhaps other talents that readers are finding further south, in the Pfalz or in Alsace. 12.5% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted in December 2024. (94+) STEPHAN REINHARDT, The Wine Advocate

The 2022 Riesling Königsbacher Idig Grosses Gewächs sample was drawn from one used tonneau, but the final blend will also include new tonneau. The nose has the merest hint of crushed citrus leaf. The palate is incredibly juicy and has a roasted hazelnut edge and a creamy zestiness that unites fresh, sweet double cream with grated lemon zest. The 2022 is vivid, creamy, balanced and beautiful. (Bone-dry)

Complex herbal aromas are interwoven with intense Amalfi lemon fruit and a very subtle flinty character that gives this stunning Pfalz riesling GG an electric vitality. The freshness on the extremely focused medium-bodied palate must be experienced to be believed. Incredibly long, precise and stony finish. (97) STUART PIGOTT, James Suckling

From 34-year-old vines on tertiary limestone soils. the 2023 Ölberg-Hart Königsbach Riesling VDP.Grosse Lage is deep, pure, flinty and particularly smoky on the intense and complex, distinctively mineral nose. The wine is pure, saline and tensioned on the palate yet also reveals ripe and dense as well as juicy fruit with a fine and persistent mineral structure and lingering salinity. This is a young but complex GG from Königsbach. STEPHAN REINHARDT, Wine Advocate

The 2023 Riesling Königsbach Ölberg-Hart Grosses Gewächs comes from the core parcel of the Ölberg on calcareous marl. Yeasty funk on the nose, for now, obscures the fruit. However, the palate is bright, lithe, vivid and citric, with a beautiful concentration and supple, smooth, cooling depth. There is an excellent combination of profound freshness and supple, slender mouthfeel. ANNE KREBIEHL MW

The NV Brut Nature Cuvée No. 204 is an assemblage of spontaneously fermented Pinot Noir (50%), Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc (each 25%) sourced from top sites of the villages of Gimmeldingen, Königsbach and Ruppertsberg (limestone and sandstone soils) in September 2021. Vinied in oak, bottled in May of 2022 and disgorged after 31 months sur lattes in November 2024, the Cuvée 204 opens with a beautifully pure yet intense and elegant bouquet that plays well with reductive (yeasty) and oxidative (fruit) and features ripe or stewed apple and pear aromas intermingled with iodine and lemon notes. Elegant, fresh and rened on the palate, this is a light, lean and quite citric sparkling wine from a vintage that nowadays has an unusually rainy and coolish summer. The mousse is remarkably rened and gentle, and the saline nish reveals ne bread favors. This is probably the nest, lightest and most delicate cuvée of the young 200 series so far. I'd serve it with sardines in oil. 12% stated alcohol. Tasted in February 2025. (93) STEPHAN REINHARDT, TheWine Advocate

Let go of the narrow human world and fall into this expansive dry riesling that busts out of the conventional framework for the grape variety. And that's what makes it so difficult to describe. However, there is certainly more yellow fruit (mirabelle, but also a hint of pineapple) than white (some ripe pear) and the minerality is huge, yet totally precise and delicate. The finish really doesn't want to stop! From biodynamically grown grapes with Respekt certification. Drink or hold. (100) JAMES SUCKLING

The 2019 Morstein Riesling GG shows a very clear, fresh and open nose with floral fruit and fine iodine notes. On the palate, it's slender and playful, with a fine raciness and a salty lime note as well as delicately pricking tannins. This is dense, juicy and long lasting, even if it is still delicately drying in the stimulating salty finish. Like quite a few 2019s, which should actually be of superb quality, judging by the experiences of early in the summer of 2020, this Morstein is still very reserved, so it would be better not to open it just yet. Its time will come. Tasted at the domaine in August 2024. (94+) STEPHAN REINHARDT, The Wine Advocate