Boris Champy Hautes Cotes de Beaune Blanc Montagne 382 2023

Boris Champy is one of the greatest talents in Burgundy you've never heard of! After buying the organically farmed estate of Denis Monchovet a few years ago, he has leveraged the higher alttitude sites - particularly on the higher altitude Hautes Cotes - to produce wines that far outstrip their locale. As Neal Martin writes, He takes modestly sited vineyards to such a high level that you begin doubting the validity of Burgundy’s hierarchy. 

This “humble” Hautes Cotes de Beaune gives way more depth of fruit, salinity and drive than most anything near this price. There's light and shade in this wine that belies it's station in the firmament. Remarkable value. MICHAEL MCNAMARA

The 2023 Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune Blanc Montagne 382 offers an enticing bouquet of lemon curd, peach skin and lychee, very leesy at the moment, with the 20% new oak neatly integrated. Fine delineation. The palate is beautifully balanced with a gorgeous honeyed texture that is effortlessly counterbalanced by the acidity (pH is 3.18, slightly higher than previous vintages). Very pure, very seductive, fanning out toward the finish...you will not find an Hautes-Côtes superior to this. NEAL MARTIN

Mid lemon yellow with a faint lime streak. Currently reductive on the nose. Then fractionally oxidative. Tightens up nicely in the mouth, with a very good volume of white fruit, just the right acidity and a complex finish which bats well above its weight. 15,000 bottles made of this delicious wine. JASPER MORRIS

Smells like buttermilk and coddled cream and muddled medlars. Crab apples. Like the Aligoté, a little on the wild side, but in a good way. Hay meadow and deep-green tones. Full of saline, herbal, tangy character, and rippling with terse white tannins. Bring on the food; it tastes as if it’s a wine made for foraged food, delicious things found in rock pools and on the seashore. TAMLYN CURREN, www.jancisrobinson.com