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Xanadu Reserve Chardonnay 2023
DOZEN: $1,458.00 or $121.50 each
The two premium Chardonnays at Xanadu, the Reserve and the Stevens, are distinct both in expression and makeup. While the single-vineyard Steven's Road Chardonnay is often the finer of the two, the Reserve exhibits more pronounced oak, and it's a more powerful rendition. Philosophically, the latter is a blend of vineyards, although it often comes from just the Lagan Vineyard, next to the winery/cellar door. As to my preferred wine, it depends on the vintage conditions as to which takes my fancy each year. This 2023 Reserve Chardonnay hails from the most magnificent 2023 season, which was mild, long and dry. The fruit power here is undeniable. Every aspect of this wine is ratcheted up to 11: acidity, fruit power, volume, length ... the full kit and caboodle. It's a sleeping giant. The wine will mostly be consumed in its youth, but the act of so doing robs the wine of its future potential, which is a shame. 13% alcohol, sealed under screw cap. (97+) ERIN LARKIN, Wine Advocate
Incredible purity and focus here, sitting on the edge of reduction. Aromas of sliced lemons, grapefruit, white orchard fruit, oyster shell, crushed rocks and flint. The palate is textural, yet its long line of acidity is not to be underestimated, complemented by underlying power and tension. Classy yet electric and flirtatious. Capable of aging for decades but already mouthwatering. Truly excellent (98) JAMES SUCKLING
The '23 vintage is turning out to be a very special one in Margaret River both with chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon, but let's stay with the former here. This is a humdinger. Sure it's tightly wound, given its youth and all the electrifying acidity within, but there's substance and depth, too. A little waxy, refined, with grapefruit, lemon, ginger spice, a dash of oak spices (the 20% new French oak superbly integrated) and a little yuzu tonic water pucker. It's linear, long, with moreish sulphides, the merest hint of creamy lees and almost a savoury overlay. Brilliant. (97) JANE FAULKNER, James Halliday's Wine Companion