5 STAR WINERY RATING – WINE COMPANION

It’s a couple of years off Virginia Wilcock’s two-decade anniversary as chief winemaker at Vasse Felix. And while that is a significant stint, the achievements that she has crammed into that time suggest an even longer time at the tiller of this founding Margaret River estate. Dr Tom Cullity planted the first vines at Vasse Felix in 1967, which included malbec and cabernet sauvignon. The wine that bears his name, the estate’s flagship, features those old vines, with the malbec portion hovering around 20 per cent, depending on the vintage. That says a bit about Virginia. Both the sizeable inclusion of malbec (a homage, yes, but with cabernet king in the region, sharing the billing is a risk) and the style, which is more about elegance and refinement than raw power. Virginia is one of our most thoughtful and progressive winemakers, ever striving to make better, more engaging, more site- and region-specific wines. The Vasse Felix range reaches dizzying heights, but right through its four tiers, the wines consistently overdeliver with outstanding quality. WINE COMPANION