Vasse Felix Heytesbury Chardonnay 2024

An extraordinary wine of tension, energy and power. It’s the result of the earliest vintage on record at Vasse Felix, with the fruit being picked on 17 January. It's a wine of power and generosity, yet the subtle secondary characters in here really do strike a complex note. It's made predominantly from the Gingin clone and shows generosity, but typically lively acidity is there, and that wild fermentation adds richness and density. The aromas are a mix of brioche, subtle lemon curd, and cashew. But then there's a bright minerality. The palate is almost lavish, yet it's held tightly with that fine linear precision and crisp acidity. These wines have certainly become slightly more generous in recent years and allow the full expression of the Gingin clone from these distinct sites. It's another outstanding wine. Dare I say it, but this could be the finest Heytesbury yet. (99) RAY JORDAN, winepilot.com

On paper, the 2024 vintage hits a lot of firsts: it was the earliest on record (starting January 17) after the warmest and earliest spring in the winery’s history. In the glass, the vintage delivers one hell of a Chardonnay: rich, complex and yet finely balanced. It could balance on a pin such is the wine’s near perfect composition and keenly detailed acidity. At this very young stage of its evolution it brings forward deep, complex aromas honeyed and leesy rich with honeysuckle and citrus blossom, citrus and stone fruits with the odd hint of tropical fruit, alpine herbs and buttered biscuit. They gather on the palate, taut and powerful, crisp and utterly convincing. It’s early days but the excitement factor is already high. Flavours are enriched by saline notes, toasted nuts, lime peel and a sprinkling of ginger and herbs producing a wine evenly brisk paced and lightly creamy in texture. The stage is set for one exciting Heytesbury Chardonnay production. (98) JENI PORT, winepilot.com

The 2024 Heytesbury Chardonnay leads with toasted cashews and white peach, pink grapefruit and preserved lemon rind, all of it woven together by saline acidity. There's pressed linen, white flowers and wax, too. The palate is textural and shapely (something of a house style at Vasse Felix), and the length through the finish is long. While this may not have the precision and focus of the 2023 Heytesbury, it has personality, texture, line and power, and I love it for all of those attributes. What a superstar wine. It was fermented 100% in French oak, with 85% of the volume in barrique and the balance in puncheon. The total percentage of new oak was 53%, and the wine was matured for 10 months, followed by six months post-blending in tank. It will be released globally on May 1, 2026. 13.5% alcohol, sealed under screw cap. (97) ERIN LARKIN, wineadvocate.com