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Traviarti Black Springs Nebbiolo 2023
DOZEN: $702.00 or $58.50 each
This isn’t from Traviarti’s home estate vineyard; it’s from a new-ish vineyard on the other side of the Beechworth township, or down the road, not too far from Castagna. It’s a beautiful little vineyard though I’ve not really seen it since the vines were pups. This wine was fermented in concrete vats and then raised in ceramic. Every time I taste one of Simon Grant’s nebbiolos I think to myself: this bloke has a great feel for the variety.
This wine is excellent. It’s raked with tannin and awash with red berry, cola and red rose characters, its herbal twists working their way into mint and aniseed. Blood orange and orange blossom notes walk across stage as the general drama unfolds. This wine does not hold back on tannin; the squeeze is on, but both the fruit and its perfumes continue to roll. If you like nebbiolo, this wine is a most enticing prospect. (93+) CAMPBELL MATTINSON, The Wine Front