Wittmann & Donnhoff Masterclass

The 2023 Riesling Kreuznacher Kahlenberg comes from a broader, warmer part of the Nahe Valley that's further downstream. There's less day-night amplitude, slightly higher temperatures and deeper soils with some loess of gravel and quartzite. A touch of reduction plays on the nose with citric charm. Despite the slender contour, the palate is smooth and rounded, with fluidity and smoothness, with more generosity and fill. (Bone-dry)  ANNE KREBIEHL MW, Vinous

The 2023 Kreuznacher Kahlenberg Riesling trocken is deep, clear, fresh and intense on the bright and vegetal as well as stony nose. The wine is round and lush on the palate, quite charming yet also savory, fine and elegant on the well balanced finish. This is a playful but also dense and persistently mineral structured, mouth-filling Riesling that should be excellent with food now and still in 10 years. 12.5% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted in October 2024. STEPHAN REINHARDT, The Wine Advocate

The 2023 Riesling Oberhäuser Brücke Spätlese is from a geologically complex site that has loess, loam, shale, weathered sandstone and volcanic formations, the moderating influence of the river also means that botrytis is possible. Spätlese and Auslese are harvested together but selected in the vineyard. Golden and gently botrytised fruit goes into Spätlese. This charms with a touch of crushed blackcurrant foliage and ripest, juiciest Reine Claude plum, all edged with citrus. Beautifully taut, vividly concentrated, yet no heaviness, just light-footed, dancing, playful and oh so balanced. (Sweet) ANNE KREBIEHL MW, Vinous

When worlds colide. The tension between the cool, dark side (think Darth Vader) and the enormous brightness of the stone fruit (think Luke Skywalker) makes this astonishing riesling Spatlese extremely compelling. The most beautiful pineapple and grapefruit aromas. Fabulous freshness at the stunningly straight and pure finish. Drink or hold. JAMES SUCKLING

Radically smoky and massively structured in spite of being only medium-bodied, this astonishingly dry riesling expresses the personality of this volcanic site with great authority and precision. So much spice, structure and hardness in the positive sense, meaning that this is not a wine for the faint of heart. Massive power in the imposing finish, yet absolutely clean and bright. (98) STUART PIGOTT, James Suckling

The 2023 Schlossböckelheimer Felsenberg Riesling trocken GG is beautifully pure, clear and bright or even coolish on the deep and complex nose that is still remarkably discreet but refined for this warm, volcanic terroir and offers elegant notes of melting stones and domestic seed fruits. Round, refined and elegant on the palate, this is a generous, juicy and fruity Riesling with fine tannins and a long, intense, spicy and aromatic, finely saline and mineral finish. This is a mouth-filling, complex and textured Riesling with crunchy tannins on the finish. It's a superb 2023 that should develop beautifully over the years in the bottle STEPHAN REINHARDT, Wine Advocate

The 2023 Riesling Schlossböckelheimer Felsenberg Felsentürmchen Grosses Gewächs is picked in the fully south-facing site of porphyry and melaphyr. Cornelius Dönnhoff says this is the most challenging site to work, simply because the stones are so hard and unforgiving, retaining almost no water. Thus, a year like 2023 was brilliant for this site. It is always the first GG site to be harvested because the rock retains heat from the day. Tender reduction still casts a flinty spell on the nose. Lovely savor implies crushed citrus foliage merged into iron oxide on the nose. The palate is taut, citric, bright with immense linearity, moving with absolute ease and direction, with energy and punch, towards a zesty, cool finish, long, sustained, all with savor and saltiness. The 2023 is a total joy of clarity, direction and stony poise. This is so elegant, so slender, so powerful, and no, this is not a contradiction. ANNE KREBIEHL MW

Brimming with floral, white-peach and Amalfi-lemon aromas, this is an extremely elegant, off-dry riesling with a wonderful lightness and purity. The appley freshness and apple-blossom aromas at the finish pull you back for more. Drink or hold. Screw cap. JAMES SUCKLING

The 2024 Riesling trocken was harvested by hand from both Westhofen and the surrounding villages on calcareous marl and limestone. More than half of this fermented in wood, with the rest in stainless steel. A lovely verve of lemon and grapefruit colors the pale peach on the nose. Juiciness, lightness, coolness and direction drive this forward, bringing on immense refreshment. This is beautifully dry and totally crisp. (Bone-dry) ANNE KREBIEHL MW, Vinous

The 2023 Riesling Westhofener trocken is made from the parcels surrounding the core part of the Morstein, with some Brunnenhäuschen. The nose is shy, needing air to reveal a touch of chervil. The palate is all lemon, with a slight yet vibrant smattering of white pepper. Coolness and a smooth, almost creamy texture underline the wine’s slenderness and chalky backdrop. (Bone-dry) ANNE KREBIEHL MW, Vinous

From vines surrounding the central part of the Morstein grand cru, the 2023 Westhofener Riesling 1G opens with a deep, pure and intense, limestone-driven bouquet with burnt chalk and lemon juice aromas. Very elegant and with a fine, silky texture on the palate, this is a savory, lemony and lively Riesling with fine grip and a long, intense finish. Wonderfully pure and salivating, this is a promising Riesling with style and finesse. 12% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted in October 2024. STEPHAN REINHARDT, The Wine Advocate

Lovely, delicate white flower aromas. Wonderful interplay of grapey, creamy and stony character on the concentrated and barely medium-bodied palate. So juicy, but everything is beautifully balance and the long finish is very clean. Drink or hold. JAMES SUCKLING

Zero dosage. 44 months on the lees. Restrained aromas of apricot, crisp peach and meadow herbs. Powerful perlage (although it was disgorged only 4 weeks prior to tasting) with a linear palate of lime zest and orange blossom. Apricot finish. PAULA SIDORE, JancisRobinson

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