Vietti Masterclass

I can’t think of too many estates in Piedmont that have raised the bar higher than Vietti has over the last decade or so. Virtually every wine that emerges from these cellars is outstanding, and many are profound. Winemaker Luca Currado, his brother-in-law Mario Cordero and their staff have taken the early groundbreaking work of Alfredo and Lucia Currado and built upon those successes, reaching an unprecedented level of consistency and quality across their entire range. ANTONIO GALLONI

For the last two decades or so, the style at Vietti has been one that straddles modern and more traditional styles. The wines were never as opulent as those of the modern school, but also never as ethereal or massively tannic as those of the classic school. One of the reasons for that is the choice to bleed the musts to increase fruit density, something that has long been a signature in the mid-palate richness of these Barolos. Vietti has been through some painful chapters in recent years. The sale of the winery to the Krause family and then Luca and Elena Currado’s exit in early 2023 were both dramatic events. In the end, my impression is that these turning points will end up being beneficial for all parties. The Cordero side of the family has their new ventures. It is obvious the Currados felt the pressure to make wine in a style the market expected. Now, they don’t have that constraint. Similarly, Palumbo has the freedom to take Vietti into a new era where I think the wines are going to be even more refined than those of the past. I have to say, I left this tasting extremely enregised. ANTONIO GALLONI 


 

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  1. Vietti Barolo 2021
    Vietti Barolo 2021

    The grapes come from small yet significant vineyards in the various municipalities of the Barolo area, and the vines are between 10 and 45 years old, cultivated using the Guyot system. The average density per hectare is 4.500 plants. Limestone and clay-rich soil.

    Each individual MGA is vinified and aged separately and in different ways to enhance the characteristics of each “terroir”. Alcoholic fermentation lasts around 3-4 weeks in stainless steel tanks, in contact with the skins. This period includes pre- and post-fermentation maceration, with the use of the traditional submerged-cap method. Malolactic fermentation takes place in wood. Aging: 30 months in large barrels and, for a small portion, in barriques. Each cru is vinified separately and assembled before bottling.

    2021
    Nebbiolo
    Italy
    457
  2. Vietti Perbacco Nebbiolo Langhe 2022
    Vietti Perbacco Nebbiolo Langhe 2022
    The 2022 Langhe Nebbiolo Perbacco is a very serious wine in its peer group. Crushed flowers, red-toned fruit, chalk, mint, white pepper and orange peel give this rich, textured red notable aromatic brightness and presence. This is far from an easygoing Langhe Nebbiolo. ANTONIO GALLONI

    Some fruit from Roncaglie goes into this wine, along with tidbits from other scattered Barolo vineyards. Aged for two years in large oak barrel, the Vietti 2022 Langhe Nebbiolo Perbacco is not too far off from tasting and smelling like a full-fledged Barbaresco, or even a Barolo for that matter, since it does technically have the DNA of both. The fruit is delivered with fresh, vertical intensity, and the wine's texture is firm and tensile. I like this vintage more than I thought I would. MONICA LARNER
    2022
    Nebbiolo
    Italy
    457
    $70.00
  3. Vietti Barolo Lazzarito 2021
    Vietti Barolo Lazzarito 2021
    Fruit for this wine comes from a three-hectare parcel in Serralungad'Albanear the village, with south and southwestern exposures in a small amphitheater. The soils in this area are older and thus more evolved, but they always create wines of strong character. The Vietti 2021 Barolo Lazzaritois easy to identify thanks to its salty mineral finish, which is almost metallic in taste, and its bright hints of sweet rosemary and wild herb. These delicate high notes form pretty framing to a dark core of elegant fruit. The estate counts five vineyards in Serralungad'Alba, but Lazzarito  is the only MGA bottling. (97) MONICA LARNER

     
    The 2021 Barolo Lazzaritois a potent, deep wine. Not surprisingly, it is quite closed in the very early going. Even so, all the natural power and intensity of Serralungais very much on display. It is the most backward and forbiddingly tannic of these Barolostoday. Then again, that is Serralunga. Hints of gravel, incense and charcoal peek out on the finish. ANTONIO GALLONI

    2021
    Nebbiolo
    Italy
    457
  4. Vietti Barolo Monvigliero 2021
    Vietti Barolo Monvigliero 2021
    The learning curve in Monviglierois always steep (first vintage 2018) , or so most winemakers tell me, because very few can go to 100% whole-cluster fermentation. Indeed, the 2021 Barolo Monviglierosees 60% whole clusters. The Vietti team is experienced, and this wine is pristine. This vintage was harvested on September 30th, and maceration was a bit shorter, at 20 days. The wine shows a delicate film of pink salt with garden herbs, lemon leaves and spring flowers. It is a wine of extreme elegance, but I find that this vintage is especially Mediterranean in character. (97) MONICA LARNER.
    2021
    Nebbiolo
    Italy
    457
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