Trembath & Taylor 30th Anniversary Tasting Offer

The Keber family settled at Localita’ Zegla 300+ years ago, when Collio (Italy) and Brda (Slovenia) belonged to the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Today, they have been instrumental in the push for a new DOC, one that would be a world first between two countries and unite Collio and Brda once more. In 2008 they took the radical step to produce just a single white wine, a blend of Friulano, Ribolla and Malvasia that they feel best expresses the uniqueness of their territory. The wine has become an Italian/Slovenian benchmark.

The vineyards are all terraced and the climate is moderated by two competing elements, warm breezes from the Adriatic and the chilly Bora from continental Europe. Farming is certified organic and Kristian uses some biodynamic preparations.

A blend of 70% Friulano with 15% each of Ribolla Gialla and Malvasia. Typically Friulano gives the body and structure, Ribolla for acidity and freshness and Malvasia for complex aromatics. The wine is co-fermented with natural yeasts (in concrete) and aged in concrete for 16 months. This extended ageing, over two winters, allows for a slow natural decantation of the sediment and the wine can be bottled unfiltered. Aromas of white stone fruits, apple, almond and yellow flowers. There's the classic textural push and pull on the palate that the Friulano grape, and wines from Collio, do so well, adding complexity and intrigue. The palate balances a sense of richness and body with minerality and an almost salty finish that really holds your interest. Great, and interesting, white wine.

 

The vines here reflect the challenging extremes of viticulture. Surrounded by mountains, winters arev long and freezing and the short summer months scorching hot, with nearby Bolzano often recording Italy’s hottest temperatures. Breezes from nearby Lago di Garda provide a moderating influence and there is a dramatic difference between day and night temperatures, especially at the vineyards over 500 metres. The wines are characterized by crisp fruit and refreshing acidity with real personality and ageing potential.

From vineyards between 600-800 metres with soils with a high content of clay and lime, this is fermented off skins at controlled temperature, mostly in stainless steel with 20% in old barriques and aged on lees for a few months for a fuller body and complexity. About one third of the wine also goes through malolactic fermentation. On the nose there are floral notes, ripe apples, almond and fresh bread crust. The palate is full and round with good acidity, finishing long and persistent.

This shows aromas of ripe strawberries, rose petals, red licorice and blood orange. Medium-bodied and a little chewy with firm tannins and juicy acidity. Notes of sour cherries and dried herbs in the finish. Drink now. JAMES SUCKLING

The Collas are one of the oldest and most established families in Piedmont, and yet their wines somehow remain under the radar. Over the last few vintages, quality has been especially strong. Readers who enjoy transparent, classically made Barolo and Barbaresco will want to check these wines out. ANTONIO GALLONI, Vinous

Galloni is right, Pietro Colla has been on a roll of late and with growing appreciation of more traditional style Barolo and Barbaresco, they aren’t going to remain “under the radar” for long. The Colla’s loyalty to the roots of classic Piedmontese viticulture comes from a family heritage going back many generations and the only change here recently was the acquisition of a new winery. They had well and truly outgrown their original winery, spread across several buildings at Bricco del Drago in San Rocco Seno d’Elvio. Just as plans were being drawn up to dig into the hillside and build a new cellar, a neighbouring winery, Cascina Bompè, became available.