The Great Aussie Grenache Tasting

From 67-year-old vines in Clarendon. Typically, this is the prettiest of the Pannell non-estate grenache pair, but the 2022 vintage has its say. It was a cool year, but one of particular tannic fortitude. And when paired with an energetic line of acidity, this is a release to hold for a bit. Quality and character stand firm, though. Dried cranberry and raspberry, sour cherry and sumac, rhubarb, burnt orange, toasted cinnamon and rose. It's all there, just bound up presently, a little nervy, but it will no doubt tumble out in the mid-term. It's a fine expression more in a nebbiolo state of mind. (96) MARCUS ELLIS, winecompanion.com

An excellent vintage, low yielding, cool and attenuated. Scents of spiced Damson plums, wood, berries, graphite and almond husks, with iron notes and tannins in the long, streamlined finish. From a wonderful old-vine site in Clarendon that stretches the possibilities of grenache. Wonderful stuff built for the cellar. Drink or hold. (96) NED GOODWIN MW, jamessuckling.com

 

From the 1940s-planted block on the organic-certified estate. Spends around three weeks in concrete for fermentation then heads off to older, 700L barrels for maturing. Beautiful perfume of sour cherry, raspberry, rosehip tea and green almond with a faint eucalyptus inflection. Attractive as. The palate is shuffling around medium bodied, feels super sleek and fine with Italianate tannins lending savouriness, amaro-like characters and minerally pucker to the wine. Vibrant overall, an almost thirst quenching feel here, a sense of great purity and wonderful understatement yet complexity for the variety. Bravo. MIKE BENNIE, Halliday Wine Companion

Medium-full red with a good tint of purple; vanilla/chocolate aromas overlying floral, red cherry to redcurrant fruit. Hint of soy sauce and Vegemite later. The wine is medium bodied at most, the tannins washing in at the finish adding a cleansing dryness on the medium-length after-palate. (Estate vineyard). HUON HOOKE, The Real Review

Vanguardist-farmed Rende vineyard bush vines, around 55 years old; 60% whole bunch, with about seven weeks on skins; matured in 2200L Slavonian oak. The cool vintage has its say. Refined, fragrant and elegant, but savoury and spicy, too. Distinct nebbiolo/nerello mascalese riffs, more the latter – an increasing theme at this address. Dried cranberry and cherry, freeze-dried raspberry and orange, from dehydrated peel to the bitter orange note in amaro, chinotto, Campari … five spice, clove, green cardamom, white pepper, alpine herbs, sour plum, dried mint, pressed flowers, warm terracotta. It’s finer of feel. Is it lesser for it? Nope. It’s laden with so much flavour and etched with ultra-fine but authoritative tannins and refreshing acidity. This also opens up and holds for days, suggesting a very bright future. So individual; so stunning. (97) MARCUS ELLIS, Hallidauy Wine Companion

Michael Corbett thinks this is as good as any Grenache he has made to date.

Raspberry, cranberry, cherry, lots of exotic spice, almond and dried flowers. Medium-bodied, quite some firm grainy tannin grip with something of a dry spice feel, which is maybe a character of the vintage. Black tea, bright clean acidity, nutmeg and slightly mulchy flavours lead into a crisp finish of good length. Doesn’t have the power and concentration of some vintages, though it does have plenty of crunch and charm. (94+) GARY WALSH, The Wine Front

SPECIAL VALUE - Mid-ruby with aromas of wild strawberry, raspberry and redcurrant fruits cut with gingery spice, pressed purple flowers, dried orange rind, exotic spice and earth. Plenty of space and spicy detail on the palate with billowing, powdery tannins and a sprightly mineral line. Super value here. DAVE BROOKES, Halliday Wine Companion

SPECIAL VALUE - From three growers in Blewitt Springs (58%) and the oldest vines on the Smart Vineyard in Clarendon (42%); some parcels destemmed, the others all whole bunch, with up to five weeks on skins; maturation in old French oak and concrete eggs for seven months. This is so composed and poised at this early stage – fragrant, refined yet expressive. Dried cranberry, rose, bergamot, carraway, raspberry leaf tea and pomegranate, with savoury dried herbs, warm spice and a ferrous note complexing. The balance between fruit sweetness and tannic drive is pitched keenly. It’s the very picture of modern Vale grenache. (95) MARCUS ELLIS, Halliday Wine Companion

SPECIAL VALUE - Sourced from a single block of 1903-planted grenache in the parish of Krondorf. Almost a bruised magenta/ruby in the glass with an earthy-edged, blood plum compote vibe with blue fruit notes and mulberry. It's deeply etched with spice and hints of dried meats, ginger bread, cold tea, purple flowers, soy, cola and wild strawberries. The fruit seems a little deeper than the last vintage I viewed and jeez I like it; spicy, plummy and great drinking. (94) DAVE BROOKES, Halliday Wine Companion