Spanish New Guard David Jones

There is some pretty exciting stuff going on in Spain and we have been keeping a very keen and very close eye on the goings on. It's driven by a "New Guard" of winemakers who are reinvigorating the scene with a fresh perspective and oodles of talent. This dynamic and innovative movement is pushing boundaries, experimenting with new techniques, and revitalizing traditional practices as well as rediscovering some of the country's prime but long-abandoned locales to create unique and high-quality wines that reflect Spain's diverse terroir.
 
They are dedicated to showcasing the distinctiveness of Spain's diverse wine regions, from the cooler climates of Galicia to the arid landscapes of Priorat, Ribera del Duero, Rioja and beyond while promoting indigenous grape varieties that have been overlooked or forgotten.

'Local' grape varieties virtually died out in Spain in the abandonment era from 1940. Cheap easy kilos, and plenty of them was the only way for regional grape farmers to survive for more than half a century, and your fickle local varieties which need high care, low crop, old vine regimes to make interesting wine, did not give these kinds of kilos. So, Spain planted Chardonnay, Palomino, Tempranillo and Syrah everywhere. But the locals didn't die out and in the last 20 years, the best small producers in various regions have been bringing back their old locals.

This tendency started with the recovery of Mencia in the 2000s, and here we showcase later recoveries: the delicate Callet of Mallorca and Valencia's Mandó. Not just great recovery stories, they fit today's drinking zeitgeist perfectly: mid-bodied at most, less fructose, less glycerol, less alcohol, but utterly complete and satisfying wines with great natural acidity, herbs, bitters and spice. Welcome Back!

Rioja has perhaps seen some of the greatest change. While the dominant face of Rioja remains the 'shit fruit abused for too long in bad oak' regime of "Reservas-etcetera", there's a growing cadre of younger grower-makers who are 'growing and making' pure village wines redolent of site with no place for oakiness.

Here is The Real Rioja, and it's one of the wine world's great styles and offers extraordinary value wines.

With a willingness to experiment with new winemaking techniques and styles and a redicsovery of a rich vinous heritage almost lost the new guard are putting out some incredible wines into the market. Most operate as small, family-owned wineries with a focus on quality over quantity. Their artisanal approach allows for meticulous attention to detail in every aspect of the winemaking process and we are reaping the benefits.
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  1. Casa Rojo La Vinas Bastardas Red Blend 2020
    Casa Rojo La Vinas Bastardas Red Blend 2020

    A mix of high altitude vines and  unique terroir with poor lime and clay soils, united to extreme weather conditions and dry agriculture that provides low yields and high concentration in the fruit. Spends about 5 months in French oak.

    Glace cherry and red fruits overlay a bed of black currant and blackberry fruits with a soft peppercorn spice and a touch of licorice. So vibrant and fresh that builds slowly with a mix of wild forest fruit and grilled herbs. Fine tannins cut the sweet fruit and a gentle kiss of oak gives it all a last little push on the long finish

    2020
    Spain
    411
  2. Casa Rojo Ribera del Duero Tinta Fina Tempranillo 2019
    Casa Rojo Ribera del Duero Tinta Fina Tempranillo 2019

    100% Tinto Fino, from the towns of Villálvaro, Sotillo de la Ribera, Moradillo, Hontoria, Peñafiel, Quintana del Pidio, Anguix and Curiel de Duero. Average altitude of 850 to 900 meters, all in the province of Burgos and Valladolid. The grapes come from old vineyards between 35 and 100 years old. In French oak barrels for 428 days, having undergone malolactic fermentation in barrels for 10% of the final blend.

    Smashed red and black fruits with that blue-note hit and spicy oak to top it off and little highlights of smokey, leather notes make for a heady and complex nose. Again, plenty of concentration for the mixed, wild berry fruit profile but never at the lack of freshness or energy. Firm but plush tannins grip the black fruits plastering them to the palate and driving home to a full and rich finish. Definitely see some oak here but it suits the style perfectly. PWS

    Earthy, underbrush aromas with hints of fig, raspberry compote, cherry and herbal overtones. Bursting with red plum, spice and a mouthwatering layer of sour fruit. Peppery tannins and a toasty, warming finish. DECANTER

    2019
    tempranillo
    Spain
    470
  3. Casa Rojo Machoman Tierra de Murcia Monastrell 2020
    Casa Rojo Machoman Tierra de Murcia Monastrell 2020

    Big fan of Jumilla Monastrell, there's great Monastrell made in Spain, with a ton of character. This particular Monastrell; concentrated with red and dark berries, balanced with a touch of chocolate and savoury components. Great wine and food pairing!  NICK CAPEL, PWS SYDNEY

    The grapes are from 13 plots of Monastrell vineyards in La Raja (where the winery is located) between the mountain ranges of El Carche and La Pila. The vines range from 20 to 70 years old sitting at 800 metres, within the wine region D.O. Jumilla, in the south of Spain. Steel tank ferment with 5 months in small French oak.

    Red licorice, pastille fruits, and a hint of charry savouriness and scorched earth layered in with sweet, heady spice. Black cherry, black raspberry fruit paint the palate then slowly melt away to reveal spice box and savory herbs then rushes back in with plum, blackberry compote, blueberrie, and blackcurrant that bring the finale to a luxurious finish that trails off with some dark chocolate, and tobacco.

    2020
    monastrell
    Spain
    411
  4. Algueira Brandan 2022
    Algueira Brandan 2022

    This crystalline, fleshy Godello comes from a terraced vineyard that lies on the cooler, north facing. Fermented with natural yeasts only and aged entirely without oak, it's a layered, fleshy Godello with vibrant citrus, white peach fruit and a round, juicy personality. It's a quality born of a special place, precise, low-yield viticulture and traditional, low-input winemaking.

    2022
    Godello
    Spain
    471
  5. Bernabeleva Madrid Blanco 2021
    Bernabeleva Madrid Blanco 2021
     The estate white blends 70% Albillo and 30% Viura. The Albillo is drawn from the estate’s original plantings (around 90 years old) in the Cantocuerdas vineyard, a sandy, granite-rich, highland terroir of this magical mountain country. The Macabeo comes from more recently acquired sites with a vine age of around 30 years. Both varieties are harvested by hand, and each sees a measure of skin contact before wild yeast fermentation in a mixture of stainless steel and large French and Austrian oak. Stylistically, it’s a step up in intensity and complexity, with a long, silky palate drenched in fresh stone fruits, wild herbs and a savoury lick of salty minerals. The pricing puts many a white from more fashionable regions to shame!
    2021
    Spain
    429
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