Royal Tokaji Gold Label 6 Puttonyos 2017 500mL

Intense nose of candied fig, dried pineapple, ginger, spice, candied lemon, honeysuckle and acacia honey. Sweet and luscious with zesty acidity. Lingering honey and lemon notes. Dense and tight center-palate. Blend of single vineyards. 100% furmint. Give it time to open, but already so impressive. JAMES SUCKLING

The 2017 Tokaji Gold Label 6-Puttonyos, a selection of barrels from Royal Tokaji's single vineyards, has a very well-defined bouquet featuring pure Aszú scents, energetic and citrus-driven, with lemon peel, clementine and a touch of smoke emerging with time. The zesty palate is very well balanced with a wonderful line of acidity and, like the nose, full of energy. There is a sense of linearity toward the finish and an underlying bitter edge on the aftertaste that draws you back for another sip. Excellent. NEAL MARTIN

Made with only Furmint, the 2017 Aszú berries were selected from some of the producer's top single vineyard sites. A more vinous nose than the Blue Label, featuring honey, apricot, marmalade and pollen, plus a tiny pinch of earthy notes. Richer and more viscous, the Gold Label has a pure and intense palate of dried apricot, acacia honey and ginger spices, with great mineral acidity (8.2g/l) to refresh the hefty residual sugar (189 g/l). Dried fruit and raisin flavours follow to the long and mellow finish. DECANTER