Poggio Antico Brunello 2016

Fantastic showing. (96) KERIN O’KEEFE

This classic Brunello really stands out. (95+) MONICA LARNER

This has an aerial quality with real finesse. (95) DECANTER

If I had to think of one way to universally describe the majority of wines from the 2016 vintage, I would offer that they are like a well-muscled black stallion in its prime. They are dark yet radiant, expressive, nearly explosive at times, yet pure, poised and structured. These are wines that capture your imagination ERIC GUIDO, Vinous.com

For the most part, 2016 is a Brunello lover’s dream, full of vibrant, structured wines with elegance, energy and longevity. When made with expert hands that carefully tend the vineyards, as opposed to relying on invasive cellar practices, distinct areas within Montalcino’s multifaceted growing zone shine with pristine precision in 2016. KERIN O'KEEFE, www.wineenthusiast.com
I prefer the classic purity and linearity of the slightly cooler 2016 vintage to the more exuberant and texturally generous wines from the warmer 2015 vintage. MONICA LARNER, The Wine Advocate
Poggio Antico is one of Montalcino’s most consistent producers. The wines are made in a rich, fruit-driven style. WINE ADVOCATE
The good-humored and enthusiastic Paola Gloder runs this estate located in the central part of the zone, right outside of the town of Montalcino. The vineyards here face mostly south to southwest and are fairly high for the zone, averaging about 450 meters above sea level. The Brunellos, which are produced from low yields, are richly colored, weighty wines made in a contemporary style that nevertheless remains faithful to the region. ANTONIO GALLONI

Sadly I had lost track of these wines in recent years. I think there was, possibly a few, importer changes during that time? I don’t know why but probably has something to do with the new owners, who acquired the property in 2017.
For those unfamiliar with this estate, it’s one of the original crew in the region. Like many it went through a period of change and modernisation. However, that pendulum swung back some years ago. Today I think they are best described as traditional, with a modern understanding of things. A term I have used to describe some of my favourite Italian wineries over the years. This particular Brunello sits in the traditionalist camp with aging taking place in large, old, neutral Slavonian wood.

Unlike some of these traditionalists producers, Poggio Antico tends to retain a little more… upfront fruit and freshness. This may also be, in part, due to their higher altitude vineyards. Perhaps that magic mix of place and man? Certainly, in the best vintages like 2016, it often retains an almost airy and light feel while never shying away from the inherent muscularity and broad shouldered profiles that we expect from top flight Brunello.
As I am sure everyone who buys these wines is already aware, 2016 was one of “those” vintages. One out of the box. Great season that led to some of the most incredibly pure and engaging expressions of Brunello that I can remember tasting. It was also a season that rendered wines of unnatural presence, power and phenolic gravitas. These are things that all play right in to the Poggio Antico handbook.

Finding a little parcel of this wine, and at these prices, is a serious win. I won’t beat around the bush. There is a new importer for the wines and so we have managed to secure these from the previous crew. With 18s starting to come online, finding a chunk of 2016s, which we have never offered, at a really good price, it makes this a bit of a no brainer.
There is about 15 dozen, so not a hell of a lot. I would expect Brunello from a producer like Poggio Antico, in year like 2016, to sell out in a flash. With that price I don’t expect it to last the day.

One final point to make here, for any long term fans of this historic estate this is the last season produced by the much loved Paola Gloder before the sale of the property in 2017. While all signs seam to point towards a continuation of style and quality, it is also the changing of the guard on one of the region’s prime producers.

Cheers
Roscoe
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