Mountain Wines - Melbourne

The Dirupi 2019 Valtellina Superiore is generous and balanced, with a 360-degree approach to the palate underlined by dark fruit, plum jam, bluebells and other mountain wildflowers. You smell alpine slopes, cool weather and glacier-like aromas. The palate shows some dried herb and lightly powdery tannins. Fruit comes from a two-hectare site that is divided into nine parcels with mostly sandy soils. Production is 9,915 bottles. MONICA LARNER, The Wine Advocate

The 2019 Valtellina Superiore is super-expressive right out of the gate. Spice, cedar, leather and tobacco meld into a core of bright red Nebbiolo fruit, with dusty tannins that wrap it all together. I suppose there could be a bit more finesse here (especially in the tannins) but all things considered, this is nicely done. ANTONIO GALLONI

The vines here reflect the challenging extremes of viticulture. Surrounded by mountains, winters arev long and freezing and the short summer months scorching hot, with nearby Bolzano often recording Italy’s hottest temperatures. Breezes from nearby Lago di Garda provide a moderating influence and there is a dramatic difference between day and night temperatures, especially at the vineyards over 500 metres. The wines are characterized by crisp fruit and refreshing acidity with real personality and ageing potential.

From vineyards between 600-800 metres with soils with a high content of clay and lime, this is fermented off skins at controlled temperature, mostly in stainless steel with 20% in old barriques and aged on lees for a few months for a fuller body and complexity. About one third of the wine also goes through malolactic fermentation. On the nose there are floral notes, ripe apples, almond and fresh bread crust. The palate is full and round with good acidity, finishing long and persistent.

Petite Arvine originated in the Swiss Canton of Valais and was brought to Aosta in the mid-20th century. Displays a complex fruity/floral nose ranging from pineapple to grapefruit with mountain herbs. Made without oak, it is a distinctly Alpine white wine with loads of flavour and a steely freshness on the palate. In Aosta, it would pair with cheese, sausage, ham, veal and other robust alpine foods. Locally, we think it goes particularly well with shellfish and seafood.

An attractive mix of ripe lemons, fresh peaches and honeysuckle with dried flowers and stony minerality. Impressive tension with medium to full body and nervy, linear acidity that cuts though the palate. Super steady and fresh. Long and crisp finish. Drink or hold. JAMES SUCKLING

The Cave Mont Blanc 2022 Vallée d'Aoste Blanc de Morgex et de La Salle (made with the local Prié Blanc grape) is a steely and tonic white wine with an icy, transparent hue and sharp aromas of star fruit, white pepper, grapefruit and lemon water. The wine is thin and direct in approach, with nice freshness, making this a great easy-drinking proposition. Fruit comes from a vineyard site at a nose-bleed 1,000 to 1,200 meters in elevation. MONICA LARNER, The Wine Advocate

Towering over the alpine city of Trento, at over 700 meters are the biodynamic vineyards of Cantina Furlani. A dynamic producer in the Dolomites, crafting detailed & serious sparkling and still wines. Vines are planted on limestone using the traditional Trentino pergola method. (Biodynamic)

True Mountain Still red from a 60 year old parcel at 770m. Field blend of rare varieties Pavana della Valsugana, Negrara, Marzemino, Teroldego & Lagrein all spontaneously co-fermented w/ 10 days of maceration. Aged in steel.