Mac Forbes Yarra Villages Masterclass

The wines of Mac Forbes are always complex. CAMPBELL MATTINSON

Mac Forbes cut his vinous teeth at Mount Mary before heading overseas in 2002 to make wine in Portugal and Austria and working with Southcorp as a winemaking liaison before returning to his beloved Yarra Valley to start his eponymous label. He brought a wealth of experience and a modern and clean approach to winemaking that produces incredibly transparent wines with wonderful site expression.

He is a winemaker who threw out the rule book and was ahead of his time becoming one of the Yarra Valley's greatest champions shining a spotlight on its lesser-known sub-regions. His understanding of the Yarra and its many microclimates is second-to-none and he has helped shape the conversation around Australian terroir-driven wines.

YARA JUNCTION

East facing within a smaller valley that runs from Yarra Junction to Poweltown in the south, featuring grey loam soils with underlying silt. Cooler winds roll off the Yarra River, with mountains directly to the north and south-west providing protection from hot afternoon sun in summer. Typically later ripening, thicker skins and higher acids are reflected in elegant structure with clean lines and powerful drive.

WOORI YALLOCK

Sitting behind the Waramate hills, this area encompasses both red volcanic and grey loam soils making it slightly more complicated to pinpoint a clear identity of this subregion. The undulating hills provide protection from the drier winds, the rainfall is slightly higher and the perfume, weight and structure appears more dense and effortless, pulling through seamlessly to the back palate.

GALDYSDALE

Sitting at the southern end of the Yarra below Yarra Junction in the valley running north-south down to Gippsland. Gladysdale subregion receives increased warm air that travels down the valley, with increased air moisture content due to the surrounding forests and higher solar radiation. Grey/brown clay soils dominate, with full, rich aromatics and a supple structure that sits prominently on the front palate.

COLDSTREAM

At the entrance to the Valley floor, this subregion is low elevation with grey/loam clay based soils. Ripping winds from the north slow transpiration in summer but the cooler overnight temperatures aid the plants ability to regulate after hot days. Ironstone/mudstone is a consistently big influence, building full mid-palate structure with soft, melting tannins.

GEMBROOK

Located at around 300m elevation at the southern end of the Yarra Valley, much of the Gembrook subregion is situated on red volcanic soils, with small outcrops of granite scattered across the region. The vineyard this fruit is drawn from grows entirely on one of those patches of granite, and we see this so clearly in the tactile structure of the wines. An exciting addition to the village portfolio.