Lilbert Fils Blanc De Blancs Perle

The NV Brut Blanc de Blancs Perle Grand Cru is fabulous. A Champagne of uncanny depth and intensity, the Perle is quite structured in this release. White pepper, flowers, crushed rock, mint and lemon peel abound. More than anything else, I am struck by the wines. ANTONIO GALLONI

A lower-pressure cuvée originally inspired by Mumm's erstwhile Crémant de Cramant, it offers up attractive aromas of yellow orchard fruit, sweet citrus, hazelnuts, buttery pastry and flowers, followed by a medium to full-bodied, pillowy and charming palate that's suave and fleshy, concluding with a saline finish. WILLIAM KELLEY, wineadvocate.com

Bertrand Lilbert's wines have long been insider favourites, particularly the intensely characterful, clean-cut and aromatic Cramant Chardonnay, and the Perle - which follows a tradition in the village of reducing the pressure of the mousse by one third to give finer, creamier bubbles. This hits a sweet spot with its pear, apricot juice and citrus oil intensity, fragrant with jasmine-like florals and rounded out by a third of the blend coming from a perpetual reserve system… TOM HEWSON, decanter.com