Laurent Perrier Grand Siecle Cuvee N 26

JAMES SUCKLING WINE OF THE YEAR 2023 – This is really something. Electric on the palate. The aromas are so complex with sliced fresh and dried ginger, subtle pie crust, tarte tatin and hints of nutmeg with some salted caramel. Toasted bread, too. Always subtle. The palate is full- to medium-bodied yet hemmed-in with a freshness and balance that draws you back. Savory and vibrant. It's full of energy. Spectacular. Fascinating. Symphonic blend of 2012, 2008 and 2007. 65% of the 2012, 25% of the 2008 and 10% of the 2007. Eight grand cru. Chardonnay 58% and 42% pinot noir. (100) JAMES SUCKLING

65% 2012, 25% 2008, 10% 2007. 58% Chardonnay from Mesnil-sur-Oger, Oger, Cramant and Avize. 42% Pinot Noir from Tours-sur-Marne, Ambonnay, Bouzy, Verzy. 10 years’ ageing on lees. Disgorged February 2024.
Pale greenish straw. Very sweet and intense nose. Masses of intense character on the palate. Lemon and pastry cream. Dry, tight finish. Tighter than when it was released. At this point it’s less opulent. Very youthful, more youthful than I remember! (19/20) JANCIS ROBINSON

This iteration of Grand Siècle is almost entirely composed of two of Champagne's greatest recent vintages, so expectations are high. The wine more than meets them, tempering the generosity of 2012's fruit – ripe apricots, white peach, clementines and sunny, zesty citrus – with a pitch-perfect streak of 2008 tautness and structure. There are some fleshy, creamy notes of papaya and toasted white sourdough, but everything is as delicately rendered as expected and impeccably shaped, with a sleek, silky mousse. A little more approachable than Itération No. 25, it will welcome extended bottle age rather than demand it. The blend is 58% Chardonnay and 42% Pinot Noir from eight grand cru vineyards. 65% is from the 2012 vintage, 35% from 2008 and 10% from 2007. DECANTER