Hobo Wine Co. With Kenny Likitprakong

Hobo Wine Camp is the brainchild of Kenny Likitprakong created in 2011 with the idea to showcase the quality and diversity of Sonoma's wine scene. Working closely with top growers often from lesser-known vineyards he produces some of the most approachable, accessible and in terms of California, stupidly affordable wine. A self-confessed surf bum, and avid skateboarder he studied winemaking at UC Davis (mainly for the surfing) and later cut his teeth working and traveling from place to place, winery to winery throughout Sonoma and abroad -  the 'Hobo' moniker was born.

While he has moved away from sleeping on beaches and drinking cheap Bordeaux, he continues to employ that formative winemaking philosophy preferring the flexibility to pick and choose grape type, vineyard, appellation, and winery on an ongoing basis. No easy feat when you consider the spread of 42 vineyards or so Kenny works with span over 240 miles from his most southerly parcels in Arroyo Seco to his most northerly vineyards in Redwood Valley with vineyards as far east as Clarksburg, over 60 miles from his Santa Rosa winery.

In total, he sources grapes from about 200 acres where he farms 70 acres direct (hands-on) or indirectly (under contract) while for the remaining vineyards Hobo play more of an advisory role partnering with growers whose philosophy aligns with his - making high-quality wines through ecological farming practices.

"It's important that the agricultural views of the people tending the vines line up with mine," Kenny

88% of the vineyards that Hobo work with are farmed organically while 100% of the vineyards that they farm direct are farmed organically. Packaging is as sustainable as possible with locally sourced, and almost exclusively recycled glass for their bottles, natural corks (lower carbon footprint), recycled labels, environmentally friendly ink and, even geothermal energy. Capsules for their wines were dropped a couple of years ago to reduce waste and the winery recently received its organic certification.   

Winemaking across the range is kept to a minimum. There are no additions other than a little sulphur and only natural yeast ferments. Where oak is used it is used judiciously allowing the fruit to shine resulting in wines that are a breath of fresh air and a million miles away from many of the over-hyped, over-priced and over-made wines of the region.

It's an impressive operation indeed and one that at first glance might seem disparate or chaotic, but one whose central winemaking philosophy under Kenny's guiding hand and watchful eye ties together beautifully. The wines are expressive of site or region and are made with a fresh and modern aesthetic that stands out for its vibrancy, purity and light touch.

These are modern expressions of the Californian wine scene, a joy to drink and ridiculously affordable.

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  1. Hobo Wine Camp Folk Machine Central Coast Pinot Noir 2021
    Hobo Wine Camp Folk Machine Central Coast Pinot Noir 2021

    From the organically farmed Vecino Vineyard, this is a 50/50 blend of Pommard and Dijon 115 clones. 70% whole cluster.

    Each year the names changes, though the wine is fairly consistent. This year it is called The Center of Gravity.

    2021
    Pinot noir
    USA
    362
  2. Hobo Wine Camp Folk Machine Suisun Valley Charbono 2020
    Hobo Wine Camp Folk Machine Suisun Valley Charbono 2020
    A rare grape variety in the USA and most-where else too. This is from a vineyard ownded by Brian Babcock in Suisun Valley. A small two-acre block of Charbono which is slow ripening even with the warm weather and holds its acid well. Seems like a perfect pair for Cali's sun-drenched vineyards and owner Kenny Likitprakong vision to bring something a little more interesting to the table than the just the usual drab fair of innocuous plonk.

    A dark brambly affair on the nose, with a little blue fruits, plum, savoury spice and an earthy hit that remind me of some southern Italian varietals like nero d'avola and primitive combined. The palate though comes through with a lovely bite of acidity and firm, chalky tannin that keep it much fresher and brighter than one might expect. A little fleck of cherry and wild earthy hit on the close make for a fascinating drink.

    20% Whole Clusters or stems were included in the natural fermentation and the wine was aged in all older barrels for 10 months before bottling. PWS
    2020
    USA
    362
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