High Altitude Nebbiolo 2025

The Dirupi 2019 Valtellina Superiore is generous and balanced, with a 360-degree approach to the palate underlined by dark fruit, plum jam, bluebells and other mountain wildflowers. You smell alpine slopes, cool weather and glacier-like aromas. The palate shows some dried herb and lightly powdery tannins. Fruit comes from a two-hectare site that is divided into nine parcels with mostly sandy soils. Production is 9,915 bottles. MONICA LARNER, The Wine Advocate

The 2019 Valtellina Superiore is super-expressive right out of the gate. Spice, cedar, leather and tobacco meld into a core of bright red Nebbiolo fruit, with dusty tannins that wrap it all together. I suppose there could be a bit more finesse here (especially in the tannins) but all things considered, this is nicely done. ANTONIO GALLONI

The Dirupi 2018 Valtellina Superiore Riserva Grumello Vigna Dossi Salati offers a special view into the Nebbiolo grape, with cassis, wild berry, crushed stone and wet slate. There is a note of wild sage and bramble that turns to bright fruit and sweetness on the mid-palate. This wine has more tannic structure that works well across the 14.5% alcohol content for a bigger overall approach and good aging potential. Only 2,942 bottles were made. MONICA LARNER

The 2020 Gattinara is elegant and lifted. Crushed red berry fruit, cinnamon and orange peel grace this ethereal, nuanced Gattinara. Bright saline notes and sweet red-toned fruit build into the long, persistent finish. Understated and silky, the 2020 is exquisite. All this needs is a few years to soften. ANTONIO GALLONI