From Jura With Love

Five years in barrel and topped up (ouille) style here. Fine wine paradigm producer of biodynamic credentials.

Intense as the variety is and should be, lemon curd, lime, ginger, salted almonds, strong brine currency and red apple sweetness and crunch, with a touch of mustard powder in the mix for good measure. Slippery texture with a little grip and flintiness to it. Complex, intense, but fresh. So many layers to the wine. Glorious. (94) MIKE BENNIE, the wine front

The Crémant du Jura Blanc NV from Marie-Pierre Chevassu-Fassenet is a traditional method sparkling wine, made from hand-harvested fruit and produced with the same attention to detail seen across her small, hands-on estate. These wines sit firmly in the artisanal, low-intervention camp, with a focus on purity and terroir expression. The wine undergoes secondary fermentation in bottle and spends extended time on lees before disgorgement, building texture and complexity.

Fresh and lively in styl and with such lovely purity and transparency to those wonderful chalky soils of the Jura. This shows citrus, green apple and a light brioche note. The palate is crisp and clean with fine bubbles and a refreshing finish. So easy to love and with enough depth to hold interest.

The 2018 Côtes du Jura Vin Jaune opens with intense characteristics of walnut, bruised apple and bread dough. A trace of straw adds further nuance. Full-bodied and concentrated, the bold 2018 carries ample vitality and nutty subtleties on the savory close. NICOLAS GREINACHER, Vinous

A classic, textbook Vin Jaune from Savagnin, aged sous voile for over six years. This sits firmly in the traditional camp, but with a nice sense of balance and lift. There’s real length and persistence here, and while already compelling, it will continue to evolve for decades. A proper gastronomic wine—crying out for Comté, morels, or anything rich and earthy.

Yellow apple, pear, subtle flintstone and lemon flesh aromas introduce the 2023 Côtes du Jura Chardonnay, a light- to medium-bodied, moderately concentrated Jura white that fades out with solid freshness. VINOUS

A pure, mineral-driven expression of Jura Chardonnay from the marl-heavy Roussots slopes. This leans firmly into the fresher, ouillé spectrum—bright, precise, and quietly complex. A Chardonnay that feels closer to Chablis than Burgundy proper, but with that subtle Jura savouriness humming underneath. Clean, focused, and very easy to drink.

Domaine de Montbourgeau L’Étoile Savagnin 2020 is a classic oxidative Jura Savagnin from the small L’Étoile appellation, grown on grey and blue marl soils and often from relatively old vines. The grapes are hand-harvested and fermented with indigenous yeasts before being aged for an extended period (typically around 3–4 years) in a mix of barrels and larger vessels without topping up, allowing a veil of yeast to form and develop the traditional sous-voile style. This long oxidative élevage gives the wine its concentration, structure, and ability to age, while retaining the mineral imprint of its limestone and marl terroir.

In the glass it shows a powerful, savoury profile typical of oxidative Savagnin, with simple notes of hazelnut, almond, apple and subtle spice, supported by a rich texture and firm acidity. The palate is broad and persistent, finishing dry and mineral with a slightly salty, nutty edge, making it very food-friendly, especially with Comté or creamy, umami-driven dishes.

One of those Jura producers that seems to get overlooked for the Instagrammable ones, and by virtue of that, leaves us, the righteous, opportunity to access the wines! Hurrah!", "Organic producer that sits under the radar in Jura, but is firmly on mine now. It took me a while to get to these wines, but when I did they suddenly became very important in my Jura matrix. (96) MIKE BENNIE, The Wine Front

BETTANE & DESSEAUVE: 2* STARS: "Montbourgeau shines at the top (summit) of L'Etoile. The oxidative wines are undoubtedly the most successful of the area, not overpowering but very delicate, likewise for the topped up wines..."

This Savagnin comes from the same small estate in Château-Chalon, where Marie-Pierre works just a handful of hectares with a very hands-on, traditional approach. The focus is on expressive, site-driven wines with minimal intervention. The wine is made in an ouillé style, topped up during ageing to preserve freshness while still allowing some gentle development.

A nicely balanced Savagnin with both freshness, clarity and character. A nice boldness to the palate too that delivers citrus, orchard fruit and a touch of almond come through, with a lightly textured palate and a clean, savoury edge. Straightforward, expressive and completely smashable!

The Trousseau 2023 from Domaine Jean-Luc Mouillard comes from small, high-elevation parcels on limestone and marl soils. This is a precise, vibrant expression of the variety, with gentle handling in the cellar to preserve freshness and site character.

Light, bright and energetic. Red cherry, raspberry and a touch of violet lead into a fresh, mid-weight palate with soft tannins and lively acidity. Juicy, vibrant and very easy to enjoy.

The 2017 Château-Chalon from Domaine de La Pinte is a classic expression of Savagnin grown on blue marl soils and aged in the traditional sous voile style for over six years. Fermented with indigenous yeasts and matured in old oak without topping up, it sits firmly in the great Vin Jaune lineage, built for longevity and complexity.

This is a powerful, structured wine that leans confidently into the classic Jura spectrum. Aromas of walnut, almond, curry spice and preserved citrus unfold with air, underpinned by a savoury, oxidative depth. The palate is broad and authoritative, driven by firm acidity that carries the wine through a long, saline and deeply resonant finish. Still very youthful in feel, this is a wine that will continue to evolve over decades.

“La Capitaine” 2023 from Domaine de La Pinte is a blend of Pinot Noir and Poulsard grown on blue marl soils and handled with a light touch in the cellar—native ferment, gentle extraction and ageing in older oak to preserve purity and site expression.

This is all about energy and drinkability, without sacrificing character. The Poulsard brings a lifted, translucent quality, while Pinot Noir adds a little more shape and structure. Red cherry, cranberry and wild strawberry dominate, with a flicker of blood orange and soft spice in the background. The palate is bright and juicy with fine tannins and a fresh, savoury edge, making it both effortless and quietly engaging.