From Bierzo To Galicia: A Tasting Tour Through North-West Spain

Even the entry-level white 2020 Candea Blanco, a regional blend of equal parts of Dona Blanca, Verdello and Treixadura fermented and kept with lees in stainless steel for one year, shows character, cleanliness, precision and freshness beyond the price point, and it transcends appellation and vintage and is offered with some time in bottle. It has only 12.5% alcohol and an expressive nose of herbs and flowers, and it is balanced, harmonious and elegant and finishes dry and long with a tasty and salty twist. A bargain. 6,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in August 2022. LUIS GUTIERREZ, Wine Advocate

The pale red 2021 Julia, named after José Antonio's wife, comes from a plot planted with a field blend of Mencía, quite a lot of Merenzao (Trousseau) and Godello, Alicante Bouschet, Palomino, Alicante and Malvasía on sand and gray slate in the village of Villafranca del Bierzo. The clusters of all the varieties together were foot trodden, pressed, fermented in foudre and matured in used 500-liter barrels for one year. It has a bright ruby color, a light to medium-bodied palate, moderate alcohol and ripeness and a very expressive nose with notes of wild berries and herbs. They first produced this wine in 2020. This is quite a breath of fresh air, elegant, ethereal and fresh, with a spicy twist, still a little marked by the élevage, but it should get integrated with a little more time in bottle. 3,500 bottles produced from 2.3 hectares. LUIS GUITIERREZ, Wine Advocate