Dalwhinnie New Releases - No Eagle But Definitely A Phoenix From The Ashes
Dalwhinnie. It’s one of those producers that was a big deal back in the day. Listing the country’s top producers always included this Victorian Pyrenees stalwart and wines like the single vineyard The Eagle were venerated, but then the wheels fell off. I’m allowed to say that, I know it’s not particularly respectful to those involved in the recent past but it’s gotta be said because, well, they did. The wines coming out weren’t bad or anything, they just never evolved and to me they became a captive of their own history. Like a shark, if you don’t swim, you drown and that’s exactly what happened. On the upside though, one thing that never changed is the unique vineyard terroir. This site (or collection of sites) does have true individuality that marks the wines with characteristics that are singular to Dalwhinnie. That’s the story here, the rebirth and reignition of this terroir in the hands of new owners, a bag of cash and a winemaker who is the best in the business.
Enter stage left, the Fogarty Group and winemaker Julian Langworthy. They took over the place in 2019ish and, under the pall of Covid, started the process of remaking Dalwhinnie. These new wines are the fruits of that work and they’re seriously great. Like stripping back the lino in an old house to find beautiful hardwood floors, Langworthy (with a little help from Steve Flamsteed in the early days) has done the same.
He says the main job really was the vineyard which seriously lacked investment but as soon as they got that right the rest of the tetris bricks started to fall into place. He says that was the main thing but I think he’s being a little too modest; what impresses most about these new wines is the vividity of the fruit and the site. The turbid and lumbering nature of the old style is gone and the wines are full of energy. Aromatically they sparkle with their varietal under-pinnings but the chime of Australian bush and dried herbs is a delicate background beat, never dominating but sitting beautifully within the wines. Texturally, again their clarity and transparency here and the wines travel across the palate with lovely fluidity.
One thing that’s important here, Langworthy is clever enough to know that while changing the style meant giving the wines this clarity – removing artifice I suppose – hit’s what he’s left in the wine that makes them especially exciting, and that is the intrinsic Dalwhinnie character and terroir has been given more primacy, more spotlight. The combination is deadly.
I tossed up which wine I should offer – the Estate Shiraz 2021, the single vineyard Pinnacle or the newer Shiraz LDR. In the end, I couldn’t decide. They’re all beautiful wines. The press has recently caught up to this release and, as you can see below, they’re raving about them.
Ok, the LDR is the one wine that is a departure and more playful from Langworthy. We pour it in the restaurant; we’ve offered the previous vintages. We lovely the style. Here, there’s a large percentage of whole bunch and elevaged inlarge format oak. It’s lifted and fragrant and svelte and slippery in the mouth. Super moreish and freshness that makes you go back for more. The fruit actually comes off the Eagle vineyard.
A couple of small points on the above wines. The estate Shiraz in 2021 comes mainly off the original block but in 2021 it includes single-vineyard material from some of the single vineyard sites that weren’t produced like Eagle. Merely 13% alcohol heightens the aromatics and dry bush track, red and black fruits and lifted spice. I love the weight of this wine, goldilocks zone just right.
The Pinnacle comes off the highest single site. Meaner soils and more intense aromatic and flavours. Also sees a little new oak (about 20%). The extra “polish” of oak shows in the wine here (in a good way) complementing the dark and shade of the berry fruit and blue florals and dried fragrant herbs. Slippery textured, submerged tannins rail the extravagance of the wine.
The point of this offer is to say, Dalwhinnie is back. The new team have not only breathed life into the old girl but they’ve delivered better wines than have ever been made here. Big call I know but the combo of winemaking smarts and a terroir that may one day be regarded as unique as Wendouree, has seen this Phoenix rise from the ashes.
Do yourself a favour and buy a few bottles. The Moonambel and LDR don’t really need cellaring so you can crack those now and get through the brutal winter we’re having and stick some Pinnacle a way for a few years.
Cheers
Michael McNamara
Enter stage left, the Fogarty Group and winemaker Julian Langworthy. They took over the place in 2019ish and, under the pall of Covid, started the process of remaking Dalwhinnie. These new wines are the fruits of that work and they’re seriously great. Like stripping back the lino in an old house to find beautiful hardwood floors, Langworthy (with a little help from Steve Flamsteed in the early days) has done the same.
He says the main job really was the vineyard which seriously lacked investment but as soon as they got that right the rest of the tetris bricks started to fall into place. He says that was the main thing but I think he’s being a little too modest; what impresses most about these new wines is the vividity of the fruit and the site. The turbid and lumbering nature of the old style is gone and the wines are full of energy. Aromatically they sparkle with their varietal under-pinnings but the chime of Australian bush and dried herbs is a delicate background beat, never dominating but sitting beautifully within the wines. Texturally, again their clarity and transparency here and the wines travel across the palate with lovely fluidity.
One thing that’s important here, Langworthy is clever enough to know that while changing the style meant giving the wines this clarity – removing artifice I suppose – hit’s what he’s left in the wine that makes them especially exciting, and that is the intrinsic Dalwhinnie character and terroir has been given more primacy, more spotlight. The combination is deadly.
I tossed up which wine I should offer – the Estate Shiraz 2021, the single vineyard Pinnacle or the newer Shiraz LDR. In the end, I couldn’t decide. They’re all beautiful wines. The press has recently caught up to this release and, as you can see below, they’re raving about them.
Ok, the LDR is the one wine that is a departure and more playful from Langworthy. We pour it in the restaurant; we’ve offered the previous vintages. We lovely the style. Here, there’s a large percentage of whole bunch and elevaged inlarge format oak. It’s lifted and fragrant and svelte and slippery in the mouth. Super moreish and freshness that makes you go back for more. The fruit actually comes off the Eagle vineyard.
A couple of small points on the above wines. The estate Shiraz in 2021 comes mainly off the original block but in 2021 it includes single-vineyard material from some of the single vineyard sites that weren’t produced like Eagle. Merely 13% alcohol heightens the aromatics and dry bush track, red and black fruits and lifted spice. I love the weight of this wine, goldilocks zone just right.
The Pinnacle comes off the highest single site. Meaner soils and more intense aromatic and flavours. Also sees a little new oak (about 20%). The extra “polish” of oak shows in the wine here (in a good way) complementing the dark and shade of the berry fruit and blue florals and dried fragrant herbs. Slippery textured, submerged tannins rail the extravagance of the wine.
The point of this offer is to say, Dalwhinnie is back. The new team have not only breathed life into the old girl but they’ve delivered better wines than have ever been made here. Big call I know but the combo of winemaking smarts and a terroir that may one day be regarded as unique as Wendouree, has seen this Phoenix rise from the ashes.
Do yourself a favour and buy a few bottles. The Moonambel and LDR don’t really need cellaring so you can crack those now and get through the brutal winter we’re having and stick some Pinnacle a way for a few years.
Cheers
Michael McNamara