Cavallotto New Arrivals - Enlightened Traditionalists
Time has always marched to a different beat at Cavallotto. One of the things I enjoy most about visiting this property is the absolute calm and relaxed pace here. Cavallotto remains somewhat of an anomaly in Piedmont. Up until recently the estate was off the radar screens of all but the most devout Barolo aficionados. ANTONIO GALLONI
Cavallotto does an excellent job of presenting the genuine side of Nebbiolo no matter what the price point of the wine. These are excellent wines from a unique position. MONICA LARNER
I thought I was out but they pulled me back in! I thought we were done with 2018 Baroli but the last of them is arguably the best of the bunch - the Cavallotto Bricco Boschis is close to wine of the vintage at its level. Tasting it recently, it bats back any preconceptions you may have about the vintage (lovely vintage by the way despite some early worries) and delivers a wonderfully expressive wine, full of cherry, bruised strawberry, mint, earthy ferrousness. The tannins are tightly gathered and ripe. It's everything you want it to be.
In addition, this allocation comes with the added attraction of a small clutch of the 2016 riserva wines - Vignolo and Bricco Boschis San Giusseppe. We all know the 2016 story and to have a few more on offer this long after the release is a special treat, albeit in tiny numbers.
The thing I love about Cavallotto - in fact there are many things - but the one thing that always strikes me about these wines from this wonderful family estate is how they seem to embody so much of the character of the commune of Castiglione itself. By that I mean, Castiglione Falletto is a transition point of the soil profiles, a place where you can find some of the more ethereal aromatics and pliant textures of La Morra and Barolo but, at the same time you can find more austere tannin profiles and a hint at what lays beyond in Serralunga and to a lesser extent, Monforte d'Alba. To me, Cavallotto wines manage to capture that very thing, the aromatics are pure and woven with florals, spice and flecks of mineral while the palates translate these aromas into the mouth and are carried on insistent tannin profiles. It's what makes the commune and the wines from this estate so attractive. The best of all worlds and when driven by such an experienced family, some of the greatest wines in the whole zone.
The variations on theme within the bottlings is also a sign of the long term tenure/experience and mastery of their sites and in turn their individual crus. As an example of this, at the heart of the estate and the source of their fame is the Bricco Boschis vineyard. They understand that different parts of the vineyard (planted with varying clones and having different soils and aspects) deliver very different wines. The mainstay ripper Barolo known simply as Bricco Boschis is from the south facing section and delivers wines that are more open and ready earlier. The Riserva San Giusseppe comes from the mid section with the oldest vines and produces a more age worthy, robust and statuesque Barolo.
All the wines are now made by Alfio Cavallotto, one of this new breed of talented young winemakers who are both outward looking and technically adept but are also fully respectful of the family legacy. In practical terms this has meant recommitment to the traditional styling of the estate but he has also refined it, "knocking the edges off" and making wines of more finesse and clarity. What you get is compelling Barolo that draws you in via pure and complex aromatics and keeps viscerally and intellectually engaged by beautiful fruit and site typicity.
These are wines with individuality and x-factor that is so craved by nebbiolo lovers.
Cheers
Michael McNamara
Cavallotto does an excellent job of presenting the genuine side of Nebbiolo no matter what the price point of the wine. These are excellent wines from a unique position. MONICA LARNER
I thought I was out but they pulled me back in! I thought we were done with 2018 Baroli but the last of them is arguably the best of the bunch - the Cavallotto Bricco Boschis is close to wine of the vintage at its level. Tasting it recently, it bats back any preconceptions you may have about the vintage (lovely vintage by the way despite some early worries) and delivers a wonderfully expressive wine, full of cherry, bruised strawberry, mint, earthy ferrousness. The tannins are tightly gathered and ripe. It's everything you want it to be.
In addition, this allocation comes with the added attraction of a small clutch of the 2016 riserva wines - Vignolo and Bricco Boschis San Giusseppe. We all know the 2016 story and to have a few more on offer this long after the release is a special treat, albeit in tiny numbers.
The thing I love about Cavallotto - in fact there are many things - but the one thing that always strikes me about these wines from this wonderful family estate is how they seem to embody so much of the character of the commune of Castiglione itself. By that I mean, Castiglione Falletto is a transition point of the soil profiles, a place where you can find some of the more ethereal aromatics and pliant textures of La Morra and Barolo but, at the same time you can find more austere tannin profiles and a hint at what lays beyond in Serralunga and to a lesser extent, Monforte d'Alba. To me, Cavallotto wines manage to capture that very thing, the aromatics are pure and woven with florals, spice and flecks of mineral while the palates translate these aromas into the mouth and are carried on insistent tannin profiles. It's what makes the commune and the wines from this estate so attractive. The best of all worlds and when driven by such an experienced family, some of the greatest wines in the whole zone.
The variations on theme within the bottlings is also a sign of the long term tenure/experience and mastery of their sites and in turn their individual crus. As an example of this, at the heart of the estate and the source of their fame is the Bricco Boschis vineyard. They understand that different parts of the vineyard (planted with varying clones and having different soils and aspects) deliver very different wines. The mainstay ripper Barolo known simply as Bricco Boschis is from the south facing section and delivers wines that are more open and ready earlier. The Riserva San Giusseppe comes from the mid section with the oldest vines and produces a more age worthy, robust and statuesque Barolo.
All the wines are now made by Alfio Cavallotto, one of this new breed of talented young winemakers who are both outward looking and technically adept but are also fully respectful of the family legacy. In practical terms this has meant recommitment to the traditional styling of the estate but he has also refined it, "knocking the edges off" and making wines of more finesse and clarity. What you get is compelling Barolo that draws you in via pure and complex aromatics and keeps viscerally and intellectually engaged by beautiful fruit and site typicity.
These are wines with individuality and x-factor that is so craved by nebbiolo lovers.
Cheers
Michael McNamara