Bilancia Luncheon Offer

It is preposterous that New Zealand's finest red may not be a pinot; inconceivable that it could eclipse every Euro, Aussie and everywhere-else red so far this year. Such are the contradictions of La Collina. Hawke's Bay syrah with pepper, graphite, coal, flint, iron filings and the textural structure of dreams. TYSON STELZER

Since acquiring their initial 6-hectare parcel of vines in Roys Hill in Gimblett Gravels, Hawkes Bay in 1997, Bilancia (so-called as both proprietors Lorraine Leheny and Warren Gibson are both Librans), have quietly established themselves as one of the region's premium producers, with some exceptional Syrah and Pinot Gris. NEAL MARTIN, Wine Advocate

Outside of the Northern Rhône, and perhaps Chile, it is hard to think of a place that delivers syrah with this much allure. NICK STOCK, JamesSuckling.com

Never heard of Bilancia? Well, you're probably not on your own but let me tell you, few New World producers can boast a track record of quality, as well as ridiculous value at all levels and with all varieties, than this tiny Hawkes Bay estate. Be it chardonnay, pinot gris, or syrah - led by the world renowned La Collina bottling - their wines demonstrate an astute understanding of style, texture and balance that few match. More than that, they demonstrate winemaker Warren Gibson's understanding of his place in the process, these are wines made without ego.

The estate itself has only been a happening thing since Gibson and partner, Lorraine Lenehy, returned to Hawkes Bay from winemaking studies and a grand tour of the world's winemaking hotspots in the 1990's. While working his day job at Trinity Hill, Gibson quickly saw the potential of this relatively unknown part of the winemaking world and in 1997 he and Lenehy established Bilancia, the jewel in the crown of which is the La Collina vineyard. This superb site is something quite special - north/north west facing, impossibly steep and terraced, it looks for all the world as though they've transported a piece Cote Rotie and plonked in in the middle of Hawkes Bay. The upper slopes are dedicated mostly to syrah and the bottom to chardonnay and some viognier.

In the range on offer here is a value triumvirate of pinot gris, chardonnay and syrah that come variously off La Collina, the neighbouring Roy's Hill vineyard or from other trusted sources across Hawkes Bay. These three represent some of the best buying in our range, serious quality at yesteryear pricing. The gris is a perfect management of texture, preserved gris aromatics and flavours carried along by good energy. It balances the best of the variety without undue oiliness or being too skinny. The chardonnay too, must be one of the better values on the market showing Gibson's continuing journey with the variety managing subtle sulphide characters with perfectly pitched fruit and weight. Finally there's the entry level syrah which again, shows the best of the variety in the region - red and blue fruits, spice and violets with lovely mineral lurking in the background. It's a bargain, pure and simple.

At the premium end of the spectrum, there are two wines off the La Collina hill. The newest addition to the range is the Tiratore chardonnay (Italian for Marksman, denoting the fact they found old bullets in the vineyard when planting, from the time it was a rifle range). The idea here is to make the a white equivalent to the La Collina syrah. I am yet to taste the wine but reviews are unanimous in their praise making it clear New Zealand has added another great chardonnay to the ranks of Kumeu River and the like.

Finally, the big daddio, grand formaggio of the estate is the La Collina Syrah. There is no doubt this is one of the greatest syrahs on the planet and certainly one of the greatest in the southern hemisphere...dare I say the greatest. Fighting words, but luckily I don't do social media so I can't be trolled (I'm happy to accept telegrams of abuse from Barossans).

Magisterial and deeply pitched with an indelible combination of dark and red fruits, graphite, blue flowers, mineral and spice all carried by ripe tannins. It treads the line between cool climate syrah and something more hedonistic, savoury and plush at once. I have two vintages available in tiny amounts.

If you haven't tried the Bilancia wines, then you're doing yourself a disservice, they're beautifully made, superb value and a joy to drink.

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