Arpepe Valtellina Masterclass

Very fine, pure, ultra-mineral expression of Nebbiolo here. Strawberry, raspberry, spice, fennel, mint and stones. It's bright and very tight, with fine crushed rock tannin, red fruits and orange peel, even some bergamot tea perfume. Finish is long and firm. You can almost feel an alpine breeze running through your hair as you taste it (that is, assuming you have hair, otherwise maybe around the nape of your neck). (95) GARY WALSH

Dog rose, wild red berry, flint and dark culinary spice aromas come to the forefront on this fantastic mountain Nebbiolo. Firm, savory and loaded with energy and elegance, the palate shows woodland strawberry, sour cherry, star anise and cake spice set against a backbone of taut, refined tannins. A savory mineral note recalling saline caps off the finish while bright acidity lends balance and racy tension. Drink 2026-2038. (96) KERIN O'KEEFE

Just a baby, the compelling 2018 Rocce Rosse underwent 133 days of fermentation and maceration. It's full-bodied and structured but still shows the estate's focus on finesse, delivering sensations of red woodland berry, sun-warmed hay, wild rose, camphor, blood orange, tobacco and Alpine herb before closing on iron mineral notes. Taut, refined tannins provide the framework. Drink: 2028-2038. (98) KERIN O'KEEFE

Red berry, lavender, wet stone, Asian spice and Alpine herb aromas form the nose on the fragrant, finessed 2018 Sesto Canto Riserva along with a whiff of sun-warmed hay. All about elegance and energy, the linear, vibrant palate features cranberry, pomegranate, crushed mint, white pepper and blood orange before a black tea finish. Refined, glossy tannins and great acidity provide support and balance. Drink 2026-2038. (95) KERIN O'KEEFE

This young Nebbiolo from the mountains of Valtellina is racy, polished and incredibly enjoyable. It's bright and linear, with aromas and flavors of red forest berry, rose, blood orange and ground clove. Lithe tannins and vibrant acidity keep it balanced while a salty finish lends depth to the close. Drink through 2030. KERIN O'KEEFE