Albero Saca 4 2025

Albero is the passion-project of local Spanish importer, Scott Wasley in conjunction with famed Manzanilla Bodega, Delgado Zuleta, and more specifically, a separate 275 year old solera called Barbiana solera - purchased in 1978 and kept separately ever since. Essentially, each year Wasley is given access to the solera to put together his own blend from this amazing vinous resource. In the first year, the blend was a mix of 5 of the 34 bota. That wine was a revelation, the en rama or non filtered Manzanilla is, in and of itself, such a departure from the water-clear, racy salty sherry we've become accustomed.

This latest blend is different and climbs into the middle of the barrel and towards the top. What that gives you is a more fragrant and to me anyway, a more refined, softer style. It's not as much of a smack in the mouth of flavour as the earlier wines but it's every bit as compelling.

The gentler texture couches the same chamomile, sake and whiskey aromatics but there's also a higher toned yeasty element and the florals are more pronounced. As always there's the orange rind and iodine elements that set off the deeper more umami characters. It's super complex, confronting (in a good way) and ultimately one of the most satisfying/nourishing wines I drink every year.   MICHAEL MCNAMARA