EN PRIMEUR
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Luis Perez el Muelle Palomino 2022
DOZEN: $518.40 or $43.20 each
El Muelle is named for a pier which used to serve fishing boats in Sanlúcar de Barrameda. It’s ‘nominally’ a Vino de Pasto, a wine with some bodega ageing development, but short of the requirements for Fino. In the case of ‘el Muelle’, it’s a Vino de Pasto very lightly touched by ageing.
El Muelle is a structured, detailed rich and savoury wine, part of which is given a brief soleo. It’s fermented and aged in a mix of stainless steel (80-90%) and bota. Only a small portion develops flor. Both portions spend 6 months in tank to unify. The wine is naturally acidified with addition of a light ‘green wine’ fermented from the green harvest in July.
Somewhat tropical fruit, with peach, apple, and pear. After release, this fruit resolves into citrus and chalk. There's a touch of plumpness, then toast, cereal, and floral aspects in balance, with the false sweetness of chalk filling out the flowers. Savoury and long, with the feel of chalk and lovely structural definition.