FORTIFIED WINE - NV

Dirk Niepoort, whose family has been making Port since 1842, is now considered one of the top producers of high-end Douro wine. STEPHEN TANZER, Stephen Tanzers international Wine Guide

Juicy, perfumed and smelling of sweet ripe strawberries with hints of more savoury notes. If you wanted to write a note on what ruby Port should be, this wine would be a good benchmark to start. ROSCOE PWS

Cocchi Americano means much more to Asti than a simple wine made with the infusion of herbs and spices. An aperitif par excellence. Cocchi's is widely regarded as the original Aperitivo Americano, and has been made continuously since 1891 using only natural ingredients. To aromatise the white wine a secret blend of herbs and spices, to name a few, gentian,  cinchona and bitter orange peels, are added to the wine base which is then steeped over a period of time.

In recent years Cocchi Americano has become a cult product in the circle of best sommelier and bartenders of the world. The complexity of this product is the first thing that surprises you. On the nose you initially detect notes of orange zest, orange flower and elderflower before more mature aromas of baked apple and pear drops emerge. Your palate will immediately appreciate the bitter/sweet balance as more bitter notes mingle with honey and citrus flavors, mainly orange and lemon zest. More wine-like characteristics become evident as the flavors develop into a long, vibrant finish, with the bitter and sweet notes remaining fresh until the end.
Serve chilled with ice, a twist of orange peel and a splash of soda.

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'It has good flor/aldehyde aromas, with grip and bite to the finish, almost achingly dry. One sip follows the next, the next... you get the idea.' 94 points, JAMES HALLIDAY, winecompanion.com.au

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Spends 5 years aging in barrels, alcoholic fermentation is blocked by adding fine Champagne
The 2013 Ratafia (Chardonnay) is laced with hints of dried fruit, almond, dried flowers and chamomile. It offers gorgeous complexity, along with notable energy and freshness. It is a very fine, elegant Ratafia. ANTONIO GALLONI

My love of fortified wines is no secret, in fact I am loudly proclaiming it to any and all who are willing to listen (usually that's a small group admittedly). This is a new one for me and it is one hell of a wine. Burnt fig, orange peel, walnut, black tea and a hint of fish oil all intermingle on the really complex and decidedly enticing nose. The palate pretty much follows the same line as the nose and has an expansive, detailed and surprisingly lively finish. This little ripper is a contender for my new wine of the year. ROSCOE

Upon demand, Gutierrez Colosía make occasional bottlings of super-textural Fino straight from the barrel, or 'en Rama'. Sacas of 'standard' Fino del Puerto, 3 years old, are bottled light and fresh at 15%. Drift wood, oyster shell and chamomile reveal instantly on the nose. There is a mild white pepper note and a floral spice. The palate is round and balanced, it persists and carries the weight and texture of barrel-condition Fino with ease. Toasted pistachios, cashews and roasted seeds add a nutty weight, while a touch of peach skin and pepper-citrus-astringent hold all in line. TSA

The impressive line-up is opened with the pale-colored NV Manzanilla Deliciosa, which is produced with Palomino grapes from the Miraflores vineyard and aged for five years under yeast. It is a finer version of La Guita, easy to drink, with a sweet note of apples in the nose, a polished and gentle palate, ending with a saline touch. Drink 2013-2014. LUIS GUTIERREZ, The Wine Advocate

Lovely salt, Brazil nut and floral notes combine with a bitter citrus oil accent on the taut finish. Drink now. 800 cases made. THOMAS MATTHES, The Wine Spectator

With six centuries of sherry production under their belts, Valdespino lay claim to being one of the oldest sherry bodegas in the region. The heart of Valdespino is their vineyards. One of the few bodegas to release single-vineyard wines, their Macharnudo holding is one of the grand crus of Jerez at the highest altitude and located on the famous, and sought-after bright white Albariza chalk soils. From their savory and fresh Manzanilla Deliciosa and Fino Inocente, to their unctuous and intense Solera 1842 and Pedro Ximenez wines, the quality is world class and the bodega still ferment a proportion of their wines in wood, adding layers of complexity to the finish product. One of the few estates that age in solera far in excess of the DO regulations for all their styles of sherry.
This is an impressive start to a stellar line-up of sherry. You can be guaranteed that if you see the Valdespino logo you are going to be a happy little camper.

Throughout its history, the house of Cocchi has periodically produced alternative varieties of its Americano aperitif wine.  Here the wine base is a blend of two aromatic varietals such as Brachetto and Malvasia famous for imparting notes of wild rose and summer berries. These are blended with herbs, fruit and spices, most notably gentian, cinchona and citrus like for the Bianco classic version, but with an extra addition of Ginger and rose petals. Enjoy with soda or tonic and a zest of grapefruit. A Royale sumptuous edition can be made topping it with Sparkling Brachetto d’Acqui DOCG.

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Yalumaba is a force to be reckoned with and a recent chat with the team there left us pretty excited about what is going on. This was one of the highlights of that tasting, and we were throuroughly impressed. The base wine is over 40 years old, the finished wine has an average age of 15 years. Deep sienna brown colour, with distinct green olive edges, showing its great age. Made from shiraz, grenache and other Portuguese varietals.

The medium amber-hued non-vintage Museum Reserve Antique Tawny, which has had more than 15 years of oak aging, is a sensational fortified that could easily be confused with a high quality, 20- to 25-year-old Tawny Port. Delicious notes of prunes, sweet raisins, over-ripe strawberries, and caramel soar from the glass of this incredibly intense wine. 96 Points, ROBERT PARKER, The Wine Advocate

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9 BOTTLES AVAILABLE

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Although the official name of this winery created in 1852 in Sanlucar de Barrameda is Hijos de Rainera Perez Marin, it’s better known by the name of the only wine they make, Manzanilla La Guita. Moreover, the company has changed hands a number of times and since 2007 belongs to Grupo Estevez who also own Valdespino and Marques del Real Tesoro, but the names remain. La Guita, and its characteristic bottle with a piece of string attached (guita has two different meanings, it’s slang for cash, but it also means string, which in fact is the root for the word guitar) is a very strong brand locally and it’s been in existence since 1908.

La Guita is a truly wine from Sanlucar: not only is the wine aged for an average of four years under flor in an impressive 15,000-barrel solera spread over two different cellars in Sanlucar, but the grapes are also from Sanlucar, mainly from the Miraflores vineyard.
LUIS GUTIERREZ, Robert Parker's The Wine Advocate (August 2013)

Unique aromas of dried apples, lemon blossom, almonds and cream. Hints of seaweed. Full-bodied, yet focused and tight with lively acidity and a beautifully composed finish of fruit and flavor. Always a winner here. Screw cap. JAMESSUCKLING.COM

This round white has texture and grip, with rich and focused flavors of apple, almond, green olive and brine. Offers plenty of fruit, but remains grounded thanks to the briny character. Expressive and balanced. Drink now. 5,000 cases made. THOMAS MATHEWS, The Wine Spectator

With six centuries of sherry production under their belts, Valdespino lay claim to being one of the oldest sherry bodegas in the region. The heart of Valdespino is their vineyards. One of the few bodegas to release single-vineyard wines, their Macharnudo holding is one of the grand crus of Jerez at the highest altitude and located on the famous, and sought-after bright white Albariza chalk soils.

From their savory and fresh Manzanilla Deliciosa and Fino Inocente, to their unctuous and intense Solera 1842 and Pedro Ximenez wines, the quality is world class and the bodega still ferment a proportion of their wines in wood, adding layers of complexity to the finish product. One of the few estates that age in solera far in excess of the DO regulations for all their styles of sherry.

This is outstanding value PX with rasins, Christmas spice, grilled walnut in a lovely rich yet fresh frame. Don't get us wrong, it's sweet and delicious but still comes of with some nice bright citrus peel and orange fruit. Yum!

A deeper wine all around, yet - for all its richness - one of the striking features is the refreshing elegance of the wine. This could go with richer desserts like plum pudding, or it is great simply on its own at the end of a meal to lift the spirits and refresh the palate! BIBENDUM

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Planted at altitudes up to 400-metres located in the north of the island (Ponta Delgada and São Vincente), this late maturing grape is used to produce fruity, medium-dry styles. Considered a favourite amongst Madeira’s winemakers due to it’s ability to balance acidity, sugar and alcohol, at this level Verdelho produces a striking, off-dry wine that can also be served as an aperitif, with tapas dishes or more complex seafood dishes. With age, the wines grow in intensity, developing delicious honeyed depths and a creamy texture that is balanced by its racy acidity. 

The non-vintage 15-Year-Old Bual is initially reticent, but it blossoms in the glass to reveal notes of nutmeg, cloves and honey, although the toffee-ish element is conspicuous. The palate is very smooth with toffee notes on the entry. Neal Martin, ROBERT PARKER

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Graham’s 10 Years Old is made from wines of the very highest quality which, following careful selection, are matured in seasoned oak casks of 534 litres until their peak of maturity is reached. These are among the most demanding and challenging  styles of Port to produce requiring great skill and years of experience from the winemaker and blender. It is essential to strike the correct balance between the delicacy and elegance which results from prolonged cask ageing while retaining the  fruit quality which lends this old Tawny its structure and longevity. GRAHAM'S

I've been tasting a lot of port recently and on several occasions this particular wine has really stood out as being much more vigorous and satisfying than its peers.  It has that slight touch of rancio that comes from many years in wood but mainly it is a thoroughly delicious blend of fruit and nuts (no chocolate).  JANCIS ROBINSON, MW

A fresh, vibrant style, showing cherry and redcurrant pâte de fruit notes, with blood orange and rooibos tea flavors. Light cinnamon and mineral nuances add to the streamlined finish. JAMES MOLESWORTH, winespectator.com

The non-vintage 15-Year-Old Verdelho has a Baume of 1.9 degrees. It has a terse, orange rind, California raisin and dried apricot-scented bouquet with attractive resinous aromas emerging with aeration. The palate is well-balanced with superb acidity, crisp, honeyed fruit and a delicious spicy finish that is focused and tense. This is one of the best in their range. Neal Martin, ROBERT PARKER

STAFF PICKS 2022 - EFFIE ROSS

Stepping into the cellars at Chambers is something akin to stepping into another dimension. The barrel room is a labyrinth of towering casks with age ranges from the most recent vintage through to old elixirs that reliably pre-date all of us. The sense of timelessness at Chambers is palpable. For me, the Grand Muscadelle is the best possible introduction to the style. Burnt butterscotch, orange peel, aromatic spices. The length and persistence are the hallmark of this wine, along with an alluring tension: the wine is simultaneously as unctuous, rich, and deeply caramel as it is ethereal - vibrant and lifted by lightness.

This is an incredibly complex wine; there's a sense as though layers of scents and flavours hidden in time are flecked throughout, lying dormant, seeping through the staves of old wood. Wines like this speak of Rutherglen, but they also speak of myriad places, things and old memories. A clove orange on the kitchen counter, displaced by tins of cocoa unloaded from the shopping basket, soaking up crumbs and noise of hundreds of honey sandwiches made and eaten in the long days of endless summer holidays. The oldest barrels for the Grand Muscadelle date back to the late 19th century. How astounding to think of these old barrels full of spirited, aromatic Tokay sitting quietly while we live out our lives. Equally astounding is how little thought many emerging wine professionals and oenophiles give to Rutherglen fortified's. I highly encourage you to give this wine a spot on your Christmas table this year. EFFIE

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The non-vintage 15 Year-old Sercial offers more drive and fruit intensity on the nose than the 10 Year-Old, with vivacious aromas of dried honey, hazelnut and a touch of marmalade. The palate is medium-bodied with lemongrass driving the spicy entry. This Sercial shows good weight and sweetness, leading to a harmonious spice and clove-infused finish that lingers nicely in the mouth. Neal Martin, ROBERT PARKER

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Mixed dried fruits and nuts in a soft nose, all gooey and golden. There are dates and jar plums with fine old treacle from a tin can, a flourish of billy tea, and touches of aromatic timber and baking spice. Has a nicely defined palate with fruit extract and developing abstract secondaries providing a drying rail and grooving the palate. Succulence is nicely controlled – the sweetness only makes it halfway through the palate before the acid train takes over ... but by then the mouth-feel is up and about and sugar has done its trick. Scott Wasley, The Spanish Acquisition

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Albero is the passion-project of local Spanish importer, Scott Wasley in conjunction with famed Manzanilla Bodega, Delgado Zuleta, and more specifically, a separate 275 year old solera called Barbiana solera - purchased in 1978 and kept separately ever since. Essentially, each year Wasley is given access to the solera to put together his own blend from this amazing vinous resource. In the first year, the blend was a mix of 5 of the 34 bota. That wine was a revelation, the en rama or non filtered Manzanilla is, in and of itself, such a departure from the water-clear, racy salty sherry we've become accustomed.

The en rama element means the wine is brassy golden in colour signalling a rich and earthy vibe running from aromatic through to the textured palate. The 2022 version is another beauty but it's different to previous years. Richer, more masculine and boasting a deep seated resonating set of flavours. There's a beautiful aromatic of orange and lemon rind, whiskey esthers and retaining an unmistakable spary of the ocean sewn into every mouthfull. Like hot sun drying salt and sand on your skin in the height of summer. MICHAEL MCNAMARA, PWS

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Mas Amiel’s classic, non-vintage renditions of Maury keep getting better for the price, first off because the genre remains a challenge to sell and the estate wants to make an impressive price:quality statement, but also simply because the younger wines – such as the current batch of nv Maury 6 Ans d’Age that I recently tasted – are now based entirely on wine harvested and vinified since the aspiring and inspired new team took over here in 1997. This elegant wine redolent of roasted chestnuts, toasted pralines, dried cherries, and cocoa powder is smooth and polished on the palate, retains a lovely, refreshing brightness and finishes with superb subtlety of flavor and sweetness. There are many more things one can serve this with, though, than chocolate desserts – one simply needs to experiment. Given the price of a bottle, and since it will remain fresh for months after opening, there is no excuse!

Olivier Decelle and his winemaker Stephane Gallet at Maury’s (if not Roussillon’s) best-known wine address continue to offer excellent dry red values to accompany their vast assortment of sweet wines. DAVID SCHILDKNECHT, The Wine Advocate

My favorite of the multi-vintage blends, the NV Maury 30 Ans is similarly colored to the 20 year, with an amber/toffee and semi-opaque color. Beautifully ripe, with lots of candied licorice, almond, old cigar and brown sugar, it’s medium to full-bodied, perfectly balanced and has vibrant acidity that keeps this lively and highly drinkable. Slightly less sour than the 20-year release, with more fruit, this beauty is drinking spectacularly today. JEB DUNNUCK, The Wine Advocate

A complex nose with dried fruit, grilled meat, dried herbs, black earth, walnuts, ripe plums and spices. Focused, polished and harmonious with a lively, vibrant mid-palate. Textural and pleasantly bittersweet towards the flavorful finish. Drink or hold. JAMES SUCKLING

Hand harvested, 100% de-stemmed. The grapes are macerated for 30 days to extract the aroma and polyphenols contained in the berries. Aging for one year in glass bottles placed outside, followed by 33 years in oak barrels of 350 hl. The wine is aged for a long period of time, which allows it to acquire a great maturity of its aromas and structure.

Canonita! What is it? Think Aperol but better. Ok. Bold statement but this stuff is absolutely delicious. It's made from the best organic Canoneta oranges from Mallorca's Sóller Valley.

The Valley is located on Mallorca's northwest coast and sheltered by the Tramuntana mountains is a magic place. Thanks to its unique terroir it is the centre of citrus cultivation in Mallorca for over  a  1000 years and the valley is theoriginal home of the highly aromatic Canoneta orange, considered the "queen of oranges".

Carefully crafted by Antonio Nadal, Mallorca's oldest and most renown distillery, the Canoneta essence is blended with white wine and refined with a secret selection of herbs from our beautiful island.
Its beautifully fragrant with fresh crushed orange, citrus peel, delicate sweet floral notes and a gentle bitterness of fresh cut herbs. This is perfect as a spritz or even with tonic but honestly we would happily drink it with ice and a dash soda as an apertif all summer long.

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The non-vintage Light Manzanilla Papirusa Solera Reserva (with an average age of five years in this solera) possesses an extraordinary, penetrating nose of salty brined nuts intermixed with crisp fruit, terrific acidity and intense, powerful, authoritative flavors that are ethereal in their lightness. ROBERT PARKER