Vintage - 2016

LESLIE KEMENY MEMORIAL TROPHY FOR BEST ROSE AT THE 2024 SYDNEY ROYAL WINE SHOW

The freshly pressed juices fermented on their skins for 2 hours, resulting in a light blush colour. With aromatics of strawberries and cream, and natural acidity gives the wine a lovely liveliness which is backed by lush strawberry & raspberry fruits

Beautiful Isle Wines are a tribute to the vibrant apple crate art of Tasmania's 'Apple Isle' hey day. Based on the family estate Marions Vineyard which was once an apple and pear orchard dating back to the 1800's but no planted to a mix of classic red and white varietals.

The white is all the bits and pieces that don't quite make it into the final blends of their other wines, not because they don't make the cut but because there is a little too much here or there.

This is full of tropical fruit and peppery spice that leaps out of the glass. A touch of white flower and some lilting aromatics make it really enticing. Fleshy and plump on the palate a lovely zip of acidity rounds up all that plush fruit and gives it some nice focus. Plenty of energy on the finish.

A good advertisement for the 2021 vintage in the Rhone this has stacks of red fruit and spice aromas, including a touch of pepper. Notes of licorice and sandalwood on the palate where the restrained tannins neatly fit with the generous fruit. Moderately dry finish. From organically grown grapes. Drink now. STUART PIGGOT, JamesSuckling.com

60% Grenache 40% Syrah

To put it plainly this is delicious! Everything you want in a Cote Du Rhone. Based in the Northern Rhone town of Tain Hermitage Jaboulet has transformed this cuvee over the past five years. Total production is about a third of what it used to be, and the focus is very much on quality. Bright fresh with a generous juicy Grenache mouth feel but enough stuffing and spice to keep it lively and mouth watering delicious. A great value wine that has potential to improve over the next three to five years. ALEX WILCOX

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Destemmed, wild fermented, left 30 days on skins, pressed to chestnut botte. The classic southern Italian red grape is incredibly well suited to the climate and soils of Heathcote. Each vintage re-affirms that. A complex, fleshy expression of the grape is wrapped in black cherry, white pepper, allspice, dark chocolate, licorice and a gentle savouriness. A lovely depth of flavour with hints of almond nuttiness is just developing on the palate. It's going to age into a beauty. JENI PORT, James Halliday

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Fermented in amphora and on skins for six months with about 20% whole bunches. A deeply brooding expression of nero, this is bristling with savoury flavour: black plum skin, olive, dried black cherry, panforte, amaro, chicory root, tobacco, roasted hazelnut, bitter coffee. Time on skins has built a formidable wall of tannin, but what a pleasure it is, the chewy, mouth-filling impact of long extraction of natural tannin, pressed judiciously and at a mindful point. It’s an imposing, almost imperious wine, with alcohol creeping up, but it all makes such perfect sense. It’s an impressively individual take on the variety. Bravo. MARCUS ELLIS, Halliday Wine Companion

From the estate vineyard and appropriately made in amphora.

It’s soft, supple, it’s sweet with ripe cherry fruit, maraschino strong here too, pomegranate juice. Red berry ahoy! It’s attractive and slurpy, perhaps a bit of a hole in the middle of the wine but a joyous expression with ripeness and concentration on hand. That being said, pretty elementary, straightforward, albeit easy to get stuck into and appreciate. A bundle of fun. MIKE BENNIE, The Wine Front

A plethora of cherries – maraschino, black and red asserting themselves on the nose. Accompanied by an enticing tarriness, Italian amaro character, spicy oak and dark cocoa powder, this complex nose exhibits variety typicity. The palate is bright and more fruit driven than the nose – with pretty & generous flavours of cherry and redcurrent grading to dried herbs, chocolate and cherry oak followed by a lick of sweet vanilla. Firm but well integrated tannins coated by the juicy mouthfeel, a long finish is replete with an alluring orange bitterness. VINEA MARSON

 

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Dry is the lightest in colour and is slightly alpine on the nose, you can taste the citrus apples, apricot from the viognier (at least I told myself I could) and there is an intense cardamom and cinnamon spice element. You can add this to a martini, but I want this chilled over ice with a wad of orange and that’s about it. BEN KNIGHT, The Guardian

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Known more as a cutting-edge cider maker, Eric Bordelet was a top sommelier at Arpege in Paris, before returning home to Normandy in 1992 to take over the family business. He biodynamically grows more than 20 apple varieties and 15 pear varieties. JASON WILSON, Vinous

Eric Bordelet approaches Cider-making with the same intensity as a passionate oenologist brings to winemaking. Bordelet worked as sommelier in the leading 3 star Parisian restaurant, ‘Arpege’ where he became deeply familiar with the top winemakers and wineries of France. In 1992 he took over the tiny patch of family farmed orchards in Charchigné, in the heart of Normandy’s premium Cider producing area. Since then he has set about rescuing the ancient ‘heirloom’ varieties of pears and apples that produce tiny quantities and amazing flavour.

Produced from pear trees estimated to be about 300 years old. Poiré Granit has 25-80 grams of sugar per liter, yet it doesn't taste particularly sweet.  This is due to the tannin and acidity, which Bordelet says is twice as high as the apple! Stunning as aperitif or with cheese or desserts. With just 4% alc/vol this can be enjoyed any time. Cider simply doesn't get better than this !!

From 50 year old Grenache and Mourvèdre vines in lirac - all Biodynamic fruit.

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The 2016 Blanc de Blanc like all of our sparklings is crafted méthode traditionnelle, with 7 years on lees and over 12 months under cork pre-release which promotes complexity. A generous palate with rich tertiary elements making this wine's length long and delicatable.

This is a 100% Sémillon form a 1 hectare vineyard located in Montravel, a sub-region of Bergerac.
The grapes are hand harvested in small lug boxes, bunches are selected one by one. Pressed in an air tight press, the must is then barrel fermented and the wine aged on fine lees with regular batonnage. Aged for eleven months in 1/3 new, 1/3 one year old and 1/3 in two years old oak barrels.

I love this wine - Semillion grown on chalk with a minerally intense core. It is opulent and dense yet has great freshness. A slight touch of stuck match reduction adds complexity to a lifted bright nose of citrus and minerally notes. Great power and mouth coating flavour and yet finishes crisp and clean. ALEX WILCOX

This is so beautifully balanced with bright fruit, creamy and crunchy acidity and delicate tannins. Full and compressed with very polished tannins that go on for minutes. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold. JAMES SUCKLING

Lanzaga a village wine, combining 35 plots, handled separately and blended after selection. Aged a year or so: half the wine matures in relatively neutral 1500-2000 litre wood; the rest in a mix of 225 and 600 litre barrels (at most 10% new oak).

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Marsanne 59%, Roussanne 41%. Our white Rhône blend is a subtle wine that displays restraint and quiet power. It starts subdued, with hints of pear, honeysuckle, lanolin and quince. With air it expands, building depth and breadth, showing notes of honey, lemon and jasmine. On the palate, it's both taut and well rounded, savoury and subtly pithy, but also spicy and gently viscous. It's a fabulous food wine that manages to complement both delicate and more fully flavoured dishes and, unusually, satisfies both white and red wine drinkers. Full of promise, the 2016 is certainly enjoyable now, and will continue to evolve over a number of years. SANDRA DE PURY

A 59/41% split, spends 10 months on lees in seasoned barrels and it's a mighty wine for its depth and precision. Flavour wise, it's perfectly proportioned with whispers of stone fruit, honeysuckle, creamed honey and fine acidity. 95 points. JAMES HALLIDAY

An exotic nose showing spicy loquat, dried cloves, white peppers, sage, green apple ice cream and even some camembert. Full-bodied and very layered with pears and peach pith, which are really intensely flavored. Long and very spicy on the finish. Drink now. Screw cap. 94 points JAMES SUCKLING

Again this moelleux cuvée has a very gentle residual sugar, with just 25 g/l. Unsurprisingly it feels very pure and fresh on the nose, with a very focused style, with scents of peach leaf and some lightly honeyed orchard fruit. The palate is pure, fresh and bright, mixing a pithy substance of both orchard and citrus fruits, fresh and pure, with a very fine acid backbone. This is quite striking in the finish, where it is long and cleansed with wonderful vibrancy. Very good potential here but it needs time.”
CHRIS KISSACK, thewinedoctor.com

Chidaine does not release a Moelleux from his Vouvray vineyards every year—the balance has to be just so—and so you can be sure that when he does it is worth seeking out. It's drawn from the clay-limestone vineyards (of Le Bouchet, L’Espagnole, L’Homme, La Chatterie et al.) and made in the same fashion as Les Tuffeaux. As we have seen chez Huet, 2018 was a stunning year for sweeter styles of Chenin Blanc and here the song remains the same.

St.-Estèphe is supposed to be a robust and hard wine, but this is elegant and sophisticated with fine, cassis and lemon-peel aromas, polished tannins and a long, rather delicate finish. Drink or hold. (93) JAMES SUCKLING

Lovely aromatics of ripe black fruits edged with violet flowers and smoked cedar. This is powerful, you feel the punch and the sense of momentum, impressive grip that opens up to show charcoal, chocolate and slate, lovely balance and character, young but starting to open up, full of class and appellation signature. One of the values of the tasting. (94) JANE ANSON, Inside Bordeaux, October 2022

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The 2016 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Vigneto San Marcellino is a dense, packed wine. Readers will have to be patient, as the 2016 is an infant. Super-ripe blue/purplish fruit, spice, leather, tobacco and menthol build in the glass. The 2016 is dense and opulent, and yet the acids pulse with energy, lending a feeling of translucence that becomes especially apparent on the finish. That combination makes for a compelling Gran Selezione that should age well for 15-20 years or more. ANTONIO GALLONI

STAFF PICKS 2022 - ROSCOE HALLIGAN-ROSE


What a wine. It was a bit of an all-out brawl this year to see who would take out the big gong. I nabbed a couple of contenders on a recent weekend to examine them properly in the right kind of environment, under a tree in my yard with some mates and some nibbles. At the end There Can Be Only One and that had to be the Freddy Emile 2016. It's like they bottled The Quickening.
The power here is genuinely staggering. It's so compact and tense that it isn't entirely comfortable to taste at this early stage. Even with a few years under the belt it is almost completely primary with little or no indication of age showing amongst that youthfully imploded and inwardly focused fruit. Scintillating stuff. It practically hums with pent up potential. The length is unreal and it stains the palate with wildly mineral fruit. The palate is hugely impactful and it hits like a sock stuffed with pool balls being swung around. It is  a genuine WOW wine but it comes with a caveat, do not drink them too early. There is so much here just waiting to unveil itself. This is probably the best young version of this storied wine I have ever drunk. ROSCOE


Luminous straw-yellow. Complex, mint-accented aromas of nectarine, tangerine and powdered stone, plus a hint of licorice. Then bright, juicy and dense, showing outstanding acid-sugar balance and a penetrating juiciness to the stone fruit and herbal flavors. Finishes multilayered and very long, displaying noteworthy clarity and limy cut on the saline finish. Wine lovers everywhere know just how great Frédéric Emile Rieslings can be, but this looks to be a real knockout in the making; I absolutely love this wine's mineral drive and precision. It pulls off the neat trick of being both very ageworthy and also lovely to drink right now. I was happy to know that my palate was still working after an extremely long day of tasting when I told Pierre that in this vintage of Frédéric Emile I found more of the Geisberg than the Osterberg (in most vintages, the wine is a blend of 60/40 Osterberg-Geisberg, at times even 70/30, but this year it's more like 55/45). (97+) IAN D'AGATA, Vinous Media

The lemon-sherbet note here is really beautiful. Then comes a wealth of herbs, ranging from thyme to parsley, with a touch of sea salt, before turning to more floral nuances, such as cherries and almond blossom. The powerful acidity seems to surround the whole mouth and makes this almost like licking a lemon; the unmistakable dryness is all the more enjoyable because of it. Long and very elegant on the finish. STUART PIGOTT

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The 2020 Lafon-Rochet represents the essence of classicism in Bordeaux. Medium in body and finely-cut, Lafon-Rochet is one of the classiest, more refined Saint-Estèphes readers will come across. Dark fruit, earthiness, lavender, licorice, menthol and cloves add nuance, but it is the wine's balance and vibrancy that impress most. Give the tannins a few years to melt away. Superb. ANTONIO GALLONI

I loved the 2020 Château Lafon-Rochet, a rich, powerful, concentrated Saint-Estèphe that stays beautifully balanced and elegant. Lots of pure cassis and darker currant fruits as well as tobacco, chocolate, and damp herb notes define the nose, and it's medium to full-bodied, with plenty of mid-palate depth, building tannins, and a great finish. It's going to take 7-8 years to hit the early stages of maturity, but it's a brilliant wine. The blend is 61% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, and the rest Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, with an alcohol of 13.5 and a pH of 3.68. Tasted twice. JEB DUNNUCK

Aromas of wild berry, rose and baking spice align with a whiff of menthol. Elegantly focused, the vibrant, youthfully austere palate delivers crushed raspberry, Morello cherry and licorice framed in taut, close-grained tannins and fresh acidity before a rather drying, tight finish. Give it a few more years to fully unwind. Drink 2024-2036. (96) KERIN O'KEEFE

Youthful ruby. Concentrated and lifted and with hints of sweet spice on the nose. Lithe, sweet and ripe cherry fruit palate charged with stalky tannins. Great intensity and transparency of fruit. Bright acidity and firm, slightly drying tannins that demand more ageing, streamline the whole. WALTER SPELLER

The 2019 Lafon-Rochet is every bit as compelling today as it was from barrel. There is a feeling of elegance to the 2019 that is so striking. Sweet dark cherry, plum new leather, tobacco, licorice, spice and rose petal all grace the 2019 as it unwinds to its long finish. Lafon-Rochet is not huge nor obvious, as some Saint-Estèphes are, but it is absolutely compelling. ANTONIO GALLONI

The 2019 Lafon-Rochet, which was picked from 25 September to 5 October, requires a little coaxing from the glass, eventually unfurling with blackberry, bilberry, violet and light crushed stone/clayey scents that is quintessential Saint-Estèphe. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-boned tannins, fresh and saline in the mouth, old school in the best sense of that expression. No, it is not the most flamboyant Lafon-Rochet, but it is imbued with a sense of nobility and classicism that I much admire. Tasted three times with consistent notes. NEAL MARTIN

Brilliant stuff, the 2019 Château Lafon-Rochet shows the best of the vintage with its pure, precise, elegant, yet at the same time concentrated style. Showing lots of ripe currant, plum, tobacco, Asian spice, and cedar pencil aromatics, it's medium to full-bodied, has nicely integrated acidity, and just seamless tannins. It's beautifully done and well worth seeking out. It's going to evolve for 20-25+ years. JEB DUNNUCK

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One of the top sweet wines in this report is the 2016 Château Coutet, which has the vintage's plush, opulent style as well as thrilling purity and good acids. Pineapple, white flowers, sugared peach, and honeyed notes all emerge from this full-bodied, layered, balanced Barsac that's already impossible to resist yet will evolve gracefully 2+ decades. (97) JEB DUNNUCK

The vibrant, tropical fruit-coulis character draws you into this concentrated and elegant Barsac. Then the crisp acidity and a wave of lemon and mineral character comes through, driving the finish out in the direction of the horizon. (95) JAMES SUCKLING

Oh that's lovely. Ginger and sumac spice, and a gorgeous richness with the perfect balance of minerality. Rich but pure botrytis character and gently curling smoky notes leap out of the glass. Amazing persistency, easily one of the best wines in the tasting. This is excellent; succulent and mouthwatering. (96) DECANTER

With coaxing, the pale lemon colored 2016 Coutet slowly unfurls to give a myriad of preserved lemons, pineapple pastry, almond croissant, fresh ginger and lime blossoms scents with nuances of chalk dust, white pepper, star anise and cedar. Rich, seductive and yet exquisitely balanced, the satiny-textured palate has layer upon layer of citrus and savory notions, finishing very long and spicy. (97) WINE ADVOCATE

PLATINUM - DECANTER WORLD WINE AWARDS
Outstanding elegance and finesse pervade this exceptional wine with its well-honed toasty sourdough, gunflint and grilled citrus notes, razor sharp acidity and mouth-filling mousse. Brilliantly poised and brimming with potential, the long and zesty finish runs and runs. (97) DECANTER

Bright straw. Deep, refined aromas of peach, nectarine, lemon jelly and tangerine jam, complicated by spicy botrytis. Rich, dense and juicy, this luscious beauty has a remarkable light-on-its-feet quality; the very pure orchard fruit, smoky and honeyed flavors are neatly extended on the long, suave, concentrated finish by lively, harmonious acidity. Knockout SGN from an estate with a long history of excellence (96) IAN D’AGATA, Vinous Media

An exotic fruit extravaganza! Luscious and seductive. This remains totally straight, all thanks to the vibrant acidity and the purity of the flavors. Right through the very long clean finish. Delicious now, but this wine will develop magnificently over at least a quarter of a century. (98) SRUART PIGOTT, jamessuckling.com

Firm and focused, this finely knit version offers a satiny texture and hints of smoke and oyster shell, which underscore flavors of pureed raspberry, peach skin and blood orange granita, with a rich touch of toasted brioche. Long, lightly spiced finish. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Drink now through 2030. Alison Napjus, Wine Spectator

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Very fine, pure, ultra-mineral expression of Nebbiolo here. Strawberry, raspberry, spice, fennel, mint and stones. It's bright and very tight, with fine crushed rock tannin, red fruits and orange peel, even some bergamot tea perfume. Finish is long and firm. You can almost feel an alpine breeze running through your hair as you taste it (that is, assuming you have hair, otherwise maybe around the nape of your neck). (95) GARY WALSH

An explosion of all manner of black berries with discreet, toasty and smoky oak, makes this a joyful St.-Estèphe. Then the great balance of ripeness, lively acidity and velvety tannins come together beautifully at the elegant finish to make this the best wine from this producer in modern times. Needs two or three years to soften. Try in 2022. JAMES SUCKLING

A sleeper in this vintage, the 2016 Lafon-Rochet is positively stellar. Bright, translucent and super-expressive, the 2016 has so much to offer. Lavender, tobacco, cedar, mint and dried herbs give the 2016 striking aromatic top notes to play off the darker fruit flavors. The 2016 is pure class. Don't miss it. ANTONIO GALLONI

The 2016 Lafon-Rochet has a very engaging bouquet, a mixture of red and black fruit laced with pencil shavings and loamy scents. In fact, the more you nose this wine, the more its complexity becomes apparent. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and a fine line of acidity, ripe and generous yet maintaining outstanding tension and revealing a judicious touch of peppercorns on the finish, which fans out gloriously. This is a fabulous Lafon-Rochet NEAL MARTIN

All the success of St-Estèphe in 2016 can be seen in Lafon- Rochet this year, where the 30mm of rain on 13th September and 13mm on 8th October, with nothing in between, allowed the clay, limestone and gravel soils to fully ripen the grapes. Owner Basile Tesseron says he had never seen such maturity in his Cabernet Sauvignons, and certainly we have hugely intense aromatics from the first nose. The palate features finessed and fleshed out mouthwatering black fruits making it hard not to love this. Tasted three times in total, and every time it stood out. JANE ANSON, Decanter

One of the potential sleepers of the vintage, Basil Tesseron's 2015 Lafon-Rochet is a total knock-out. Explosive, deep and powerful, the 2015 possesses remarkable richness and intensity. A host of black cherry, smoke, gravel, menthol, tar and licorice notes abound. I tasted the 2015 four times over two weeks. During that time, the wine seemed to acquire more and more freshness as well as finesse. There is little question Lafon-Rochet is one of the stars of Saint-Estèphe in 2015. The blend is 54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc and 4% Petit Verdot ANTONIO GALLONI

A gem from Saint-Estèphe is the 2015 Château Lafon-Rochet and it's certainly one of the top wines from this appellation in 2015. Elegant, medium to full-bodied, beautifully pure and refined, it offers impressive notes of sweet dark fruits, crème de cassis, classy oak and a kiss of minerality. It's the finesse and quality of tannin, as well as its solid mid-palate, that sets this beauty apart. This wine is 54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc and the rest Petit Verdot, and it's hidden little gem worth tracking down! JEB DUNNUCK

Raspberry, cherry, light spice and smokiness, almond, floral prettiniess this vintage too. Bright red fruits, firm, brick dust tannin, very ‘mineral’ and stony, slip of orange peel and dried herb on the finish. It’s a complete iteration of Passorosso with weight of fruit, freshness and perfume all in the mix. Splendid (95) GARY WALSH, The Wine Front

Woodland berry, smoke, wild rose and Mediterranean scrub lead the way on this vibrant red. Racy and succulent, the savory, focused palate delivers juicy strawberry, red cherry, star anise and chopped herb alongside polished tannins and bright acidity. A saline note gives it a tangy finish KERIN O’KEEFFE, Wine Enthusiast

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2 BOTTLES AVAILABLE

A more stemmy, mulchy expression of Moorooduc Pinot with the influence of 100% whole bunch fermentation quite apparent. A suggestion of Beaujolais-like carbonic maceration character, a hint of Mescal, and the slightly green aromas and flavours of stalks all contributing to that point of difference. That said, there's ample and attractive varietal pinot fruit to be found, with sour-cherry and cranberry on the bouquet and palate and ripe tannins playing their part. STEVEN CREBER, Halliday Wine Companion

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The 2016 Valpolicella Superiore is intense, with a captivating bouquet that blends cedar shavings, savory herbs and balsamic spices with rum-soaked cherries, sweet lavender and dark chocolate. This sweeps across the palate with silken textures, delivering masses of tart red and black fruits along with hints of espresso bean. Crunchy mineral tones and zesty acidity add dramatic lift. The 2016 tapers off long and staining, sporting a pleasantly bitter tinge of cocoa as grippy tannins resonate. The 2016 is a well-muscled dancer yet still youthfully coiled. (95) ERIC GUIDO

Dense garnet color, full of polished aromas of balsamic, cedar wood, earthy minerality, licorice, leather, restrained bramble fruit and coffee grounds. Dry, full-bodied and velvety on the palate, with lifted acidity and an austere finish. Long, slightly chocolatey aftertaste. (96) JAMES SUCKLING

The new release for 2024, 2016 is a much anticipated vintage from Dal Forno given that the 2017 was released first. But it has needed the extra time in bottle: export manager Marco Pinna explained that production volumes in 2016 were compromised by hailstorms in 2015. This had the result of naturally reducing yields and lending even more concentration than usual to the wine. Darker and richer in aroma compared to the 2017 Valpolicella, it clings on to a nutty, reductive character, with wisps of mint and fenugreek. In the mouth it's fleshy and powerful; less vertical than the 2017. There's a slightly meaty touch to the ripe, concentrated red and black berries, lifted by floral notes of iris and violets as well as crushed rock and exotic spices. Voluptuous black cherry emerges towards the end, but this still feels quite tight and closed; the best is yet to come. (97) DECANTER