Calvados, Riesling, sangiovese...

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From a south-southwest, wind-exposed slope with gravel, sand and loess soils

The ripe yet delicate apricot character is married to a concentrated, sleek and very polished palate, with mineral acidity that runs right through the wine, from the tip of the tongue right to the very back. Great finesse and originality. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold. (98) STUART PIGGOT, jamessuckling.com

1 AVAIALABLE

A 480m site in Mount Torrens. Loam and clay over quartz and ironstone substrata. Hand picked, 100% whole bunches, fermented spontaneously before maturation in French oak (31% new) for 20 months. While I can sense the dill pickle of the stems, there is such depth of fruit and long-limbed grape tannins that I have no doubt the verdancy will be absorbed in time. Cornas-like. Wild and woolly. Ferrous, bloody, olive pasted and laden with smoky, spiced meats. A very good wine in an embryonic phase. Put this away for five to eight years. (95) NED GOODWIN, Halliday Wine Companion

Ink black core with a deep purple rim. Mulberry, dried woody herbs and black pepper aromatics. Medium to full, dark fruits on entry but this is built as a savoury wine. Curing meat, ironstone, iodine and dark spices with dried woody herbs all meld across the palate, grainy tannins accentuate the depth and it rolls long and dark to the finish. STUART KNOX, The Real Review

This wonderful Mosel Kabinett has a wide spectrum of white tree fruit, wild berry and herb aromas. Impressive concentration on the very focused light-bodied palate. I love the racy acidity and pronounced slatey minerality that is wrapped around the very long and clean finish STUART PIGOTT, jamessuckling.com

 

Packed with vivid black cherry, black currant and plum fruit, as well as iron, sanguine and tobacco accents, this red shows some power and tension, but also grace and balance. The lingering aftertaste features bright, ripe fruit and wild herbs. (97) WINE SPECTATOR

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2 BOTTLES AVAILABLE

The Isole e Olena 2021 Chianti Classico is a softly textured and charming wine that is impeccably buttoned up and balanced. It offers terrific value at this price point. This wine is packed with bright fruit, wild cherry and blue flower. It ends with a blast of refreshing acidity that is consistent with Sangiovese. MONICA LARNER, Wine Advocate

Bit by bit, it reveals characteristic nuances of brushwood, currants, rosehip, strawberry and pepper. Succulent and light on feet, the palate is judiciously concentrated with pure and persistent red berries. Taut, integrated tannins provide definition, and it trails off with garden-fresh herbs. This should give plenty of pleasure over the next eight to 10 years. DECANTER

Super-spicy Chianti fully focused on licorice root, restrained black cherries, fresh violets and meaty notes. It seems to be a serious effort, with graphite flavors allied to firm, chalky and chewy tannins, crisp acidity and a super-polished finish. JAMES SUCKLING

The 2021 Chianti Classico is deceptive in its light color and medium-bodied structure. It possesses notable textural depth and supporting structure. This is such a pretty and expressive wine. Dried herbs, mint, spice and crushed red berry fruit are nicely drawn. Bright acids and floral overtones pull it all together. ANTONIO GALLONI

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Full bodied, yet very approachable, Emily’s keeps on giving.  Brilliant magenta in colour, this wine will stain.  Intense dark fruits of cherry, raspberry and plum, followed through with a hint of mint and dark chocolate.  Structured chalky tannins and balanced natural acidity allows this wine to be cellared. JASPER HILL

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The 2016 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Vigneto San Marcellino is a dense, packed wine. Readers will have to be patient, as the 2016 is an infant. Super-ripe blue/purplish fruit, spice, leather, tobacco and menthol build in the glass. The 2016 is dense and opulent, and yet the acids pulse with energy, lending a feeling of translucence that becomes especially apparent on the finish. That combination makes for a compelling Gran Selezione that should age well for 15-20 years or more. ANTONIO GALLONI

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Sourced from a single block planted in 1973. Fermented with a combination of whole bunches and whole berries. Half the wine was fermented and matured in a 3500L French foudre (purchased in 2019), the other half in French puncheons (10% new). A medium-deep and very bright crimson. Lifted and immediately appealing with its aromas of black raspberries and violets alongside a cornucopia of spices including cracked black pepper, anise and fennel seeds. A gorgeous medium-weighted, intensely flavoured and long Yarra Valley shiraz with enough tannin to suggest patience will be rewarded. Great stuff. (98) PHILIP RICH

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The 2019 Petresco picks up where the 2018 left off, although it is perhaps a bit more reserved at this stage than its older sibling was. Deceptive in its mid-weight structure, the 2019 possesses notable depth and intensity. Time in the glass brings out shades of red/purplish Sangiovese fruit mixed with suggestions of new leather, spice and menthol. The 2019 spent two years in wood (equal parts cask and barrique) followed by a year in cement. (97) ANTONIO GALLONI

Generosity of fruit with a slick and well-manicured bed of dark, soft berry fruit is overlain with some really snazzy wood influence. It plumps out to fill the mid palate before tightening up on the energetic and gravel laden finish. You think soft because of the luxuriating profile but the wine itself says "no, I'm here for the long haul" with an inner tension and rocky mineral drive. It's a serious wine, no doubt, but I drank it after being opened all day and it's more sultry, suave characters pulled ahead. Lovely. This is genuinely fantastic. ROSCOE

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The 2021 Chianti Classico is fabulous. Bright and punchy, with terrific resonance, this wine shows just how compelling the vintage is. Readers will find a Chianti Classico of dynamic energy and volume. Dark red cherry, purplish fruit, lavender, rose petal, spice and a gentle kiss of French oak build into the sumptuous, vibrant finish. Superb. The 2021 was aged in 500-liter barrels (5-6% new) for 14 months and is a blend of fruit from Greve, Gaiole and Radda. ANTONIO  GALLONI, Vinous

This has a fresh character with ripe cherries and raspberries as well as dried flowers, bark and stones. Polished and textural with a medium body and vivid acidity. Focused and fresh with chalky tannin structure and a linear finish with notes of citrus and minerals. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold. JAMES SUCKLING

A saturated purple/magenta hue, the 2021 Chianti Classico is lush and fresh with aromas of black raspberry, black cherry, violet, and fresh leather. Plush and inviting, with bright acidity along the sides of the palate shining through, it offers a velvety texture with a long finish. It’s polished but not oaky and has a very refined feel, with medium to full body and a long and balanced finish. Drink 2026-2040. JEB DUNNUCK

This red is precise, offering cherry, raspberry, rose, iron and tobacco flavors fused to a steely, dense and vibrant structure. Balanced and intense, building to a long aftertaste infused with fruit and mineral notes. Best from 2026 through 2045. BRUCE SANDERSON, Wine Spectator

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Very exotic, with papaya, pineapple and jack-fruit aromas, but also tropical flowers and touches of fresh ginger and galgant. Enormous concentration and refinement, the fruit rippling over the palate in waves, and each time you think that you’ve taken them all in, the next wave hits you. Almost endless wet-stone finish! Vegan. Drink or hold. (98) STUART PIGOTT, Jamessuckling.com

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Really pretty fruit with pure berries and cherries with flowers. It’s medium-bodied with medium round tannins and a juicy finish. Shows a citrusy undertone to the whole thing with fresh acidity that runs long. Give it two or three years to come together. Better after 2025. JAMES SUCKLING

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The blockbuster-styled 2022 Saint-Joseph La Sensonne is loaded with intense wood smoke, clove, ripe black fruit and licorice tones. Medium- to full-bodied and concentrated, the 2022 will benefit from more time in bottle. Bold and savory, it walks off the stage with persistence on the structured finish. NICHOLAS GREINACHER

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A deep well of ripe mirabelle and persimmon on the nose. Then comes the rich and concentrated but silky and precisely balanced palate. Very long and expansive finish with a fabulous texture and a delicate floral-honey touch. STUART PIGOTT, Jamessuckling.com

The 2020 Riesling Rüdesheimer Rosengarten Monopol Grosses Gewächs is from two parcels within Rosengarten, the Bienengarten and Kreuzgarten, within the village, flat, close to the river, hence a very warm site, on a sandy, loamy soil. This makes it an outlier among Rüdesheimer Grosse Lagen. The vines are 50 and 20 years old. Just a hint of honey plays on the nose, with a slight note of shriveled, dry fruit that was common in 2020. The palate is rounded and really concentrated, with insistent, bright, dried lemon notes and citrus pith. It is mouth-watering, with real chalkiness of deep soil that begins to take over from the fruit. It's round, rich and with much personality. ANNE KREBIEHL, Vinous.com

The 2020 Petresco is 100% Sangiovese from the estate's highest-elevation blocks facing Lamole, where soils are especially rocky and the vines are older. Wildflowers, herbs, rocks, menthol and licorice soar out of the glass. This is an especially savory, expressive Sangiovese that emphasizes mineral and floral notes more than primary fruit. Petresco spent two years in 60-70% cask and the rest in barrique, followed by a year in cement. It remains one of the most distinctive wines in all of Italy. Magnificent. (97) ANTONIO GALLONI

Striking nose of garden herbs with just a hint wet earth underlining the delicate white tree fruit aromas. Stunning concentration and energy on the super-straight medium-bodied palate. Very long, almost perfectly balanced finish that is surprising for this category at this early stage in the wine’s development. Great slate expression. (96) STUART PIGOTT, jamessuckling.com

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The very deep and refined peachy fruit is overlain with sweet floral nuances and underlined by a fascinating minerality that builds as the wine flows over the medium- to full-bodied palate. From old vines at the bottom of the Grand Cru Schlossberg site. (95) STUART PIGGOT

The 2022 Rosso di Montalcino is exotic. The bouquet leaps from the glass, mixing medicinal cherries, mint, pine and blood orange. Seamless and silky, this soothes the senses with its soft textures of opulent ripe fruits, all balanced by tactile minerality. Residual acidity adds amazing, juicy freshness through the finish as the 2022 tapers off gently tannic, potent and long. This is quite unique from a typical Le Potazzine, ripe and intense, yet I'm loving it all the same. ERIC GUIDO, Vinous

The 2019 Brunello di Montalcino opens slowly with a blend of savory herbs, worn leather, dried roses and cinnamon-dusted currants. This flows across the palate with textures of pure silk, racy yet refined, with a seamless wave of ripe red fruits that slowly saturate toward the close. It finishes long and staining yet harmonious. Crunchy tannins frame the experience without slowing its momentum as licorice and orange notes gradually fade. This fantastic, high-energy rendition of Talenti’s Brunello will thrive over ten to fifteen years of cellaring. ERIC GUIDO

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The 2019 Brunello di Montalcino bursts from the glass with an intense array of black raspberries, lavender, sage, wet stone and crushed rocks. This is elegant and velvety on the palate. A rich wave of ripe red and black fruits soothe, lifted by vibrant acidity and hints of mint. The 2019 finishes with a mentholated freshness, leaving a tarry concentration and a coating of fine-grained tannins that saturate. This is a dark and radiant beauty that will require extended cellaring. ERIC GUIDO, Vinous.com

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A deep well of ripe mirabelle and persimmon on the nose. Then comes the rich and concentrated but silky and precisely balanced palate. Very long and expansive finish with a fabulous texture and a delicate floral-honey touch. STUART PIGOTT, Jamessuckling.com

The 2020 Riesling Rüdesheimer Rosengarten Monopol Grosses Gewächs is from two parcels within Rosengarten, the Bienengarten and Kreuzgarten, within the village, flat, close to the river, hence a very warm site, on a sandy, loamy soil. This makes it an outlier among Rüdesheimer Grosse Lagen. The vines are 50 and 20 years old. Just a hint of honey plays on the nose, with a slight note of shriveled, dry fruit that was common in 2020. The palate is rounded and really concentrated, with insistent, bright, dried lemon notes and citrus pith. It is mouth-watering, with real chalkiness of deep soil that begins to take over from the fruit. It's round, rich and with much personality. ANNE KREBIEHL, Vinous.com

Here’s a very classic Mosel Spatlese with exactly the combination of richness, elegance and delicacy that makes this category unique. Such delicate white peach and sliced pear, rose and honeysuckle aromas. Very long finish that is as succulent as it is refined. You just want to linger there for as long as you can. (96) STUART PIGOTT, jamessuckling.com

Nice to have this wine back in town after an absence in 2021. The power and concentration of the vineyard and the style is immediately evident. The intensity strikes immediately on the nose, while once the wine starts to roll across your palate you know you in a head zone of great power. It was a warm and concentrated vintage. Brilliant crimson colour with a bright luminosity and brilliant purity that lifts effortlessly from the glass. Floral notes with a dried herbie sage bush character engages immediately. Dry chalky tannins with a trace of minerally iron filings. It’s vibrant and fleshy with real volume of flavour. Continues to mark its turf as an Australian classic. (98) RAY JORDAN

Now that Farvie is a trio, and not a duo, and the Mourvèdre sits neatly in between the Grenache and Syrah in terms of hue, timbre and attitude, this Grenache seems more succulent, fragrant and blushingly attractive than ever. It is imperceptibly lighter, more rhubarb and pomegranate-tinged and creamier than ever. The colour is a crimson and carmine amalgam, and the nose is akin to a stroll through an Amazonian arboretum. It is sexy, and it knows it, and before it gets too lascivious, on cue, it firms up, dries out and ends with a vicious lick of stern acidity. After such a lavish welcome, this finish is fantastic because it snaps your senses to attention and reminds you that while Farvie Grenache is a consummate charmer, beneath the surface, it is a weaponised wine with extraordinary skill. (19+/20) MATTHEW JUKES

 

A lacy layer of floral honey lies over the very ripe white fruit aromas of this very elegant Auslese. In spite of the impressive concentration and succulence, this riesling Auslese is still really fine, even filigree. What a great vibrancy this also has at the dense finish! Enormous aging potential. Limited production. Drink or hold. JAMES SUCKLING

The 2021 Kiedrich Turmberg Riesling Auslese is precise, fresh and flinty on the nose yet pretty sweet on the palate. This is an elegant and refined, dense and saline, seriously grippy and stimulating Auslese with enormous aging potential. Very long but very sweet as well. 8.5% stated alcohol plus 110 grams per liter of residual sugar. Natural cork. Tasted in July 2022. STEPHAN REINHARDT, The Wine Advocate

A cooler year has produced a pared-back, elegant and finer style that’s as exciting as any vintage. It’s peppery, spicy, a little sappy, laden with cranberries, pomegranate tartness, amaro and rosehips – quite exotic really. Accents on red cherries and red plums with oak spices and woodsy inputs bolstering the flavour profile and structure. It’s medium bodied, with the filagree tannins etched in as the acidity takes the lead to finish long and pure. Lovely now, and in good time, it will blossom further. 96 JANE FAULKNER, wine companion

The Argiano 2019 Brunello di Montalcino comes out stronger than the previous 2018 and 2017 vintages, thanks to the precision and focus of its fruit flavors in this balanced vintage. It shows ample depth and volume, with sweet cherry and blackberry that fold into softly toasted spice and earth. Floral hints of lilac and iris make brief but poignant appearances. Velvety tannins and a nicely concentrated mid-weight palate give good staying power. MONICA LARNER, Wine Advocate

Having fallen head over heels with this wine in the 2021 vintage, my stomach was in knots when I approached the 2022 in Perth. Would ‘second album syndrome’ strike? Not a chance. This wine’s fanfare is all-encompassing, with an epic nose that is striking, fruit-packed and sophisticated. There are abundant rose petals, plum and red cherry notes, and sensual waves of florality and bounteous juiciness are countered by intense, brittle minerality. The acid line scours the palate with masochistic striations that form the tramlines on which this wine delivers its message with tireless accuracy. And then you notice that something is missing. Unlike virtually every other mesmeric Mourvèdre on earth, oak is seemingly missing. Of course, this is an illusion because behind every cache of flavour molecules sits a silent oak nuance, hidden from view but doing the covert task of adding grandeur and detail without craving any credit. This is another jaw-dropping wine, and it stands a chance of running a longer race than the 2021, too, so be sure to secure your stock. (19.5+/20), MATTHEW JUKES

The second iteration of this wine (tasted pre-release), which is quickly rising to icon status in Swinney’s portfolio. Tiny production from bushvines, the fruit is harvested in three passes wild fermented in whole bunches and matured in old oak. Currently tightly wound and holding its cards close to its chest, its starry journey ahead is clear. Vibrant, densely knit dark black plum aromas with a jewel-like clarity, along with violets, star anise, eucalypt, heady ferrous notes and crushed earth. Tannins might be tight and bunched up in their youth, but they are chalky and fine in structure, and the long line of delicate acidity helps deliver waves of flavour long after the last sip. Complex, vivacious and nuanced; a new Mourvèdre benchmark has been set. (98) CASSANDRA CHARLICK, Decanter

This is the second vintage of the Farvie Mourvedre and takes the excellent ’21 up a notch. It has a dry, savoury and slightly ferruginous rusty nail character offsetting the sweet floral notes on the nose. The palate is a superb interpretation of the variety in these Frankland soils. There is a slightly greater volume of fruit than ’21, bit it retains the same Old-World charm and expression. Chalky tannins and balanced use of oak. Tasted this about 4 months apart and already the shy middle palate I first saw has started to unfurl. Energy and vibrancy set this apart. A worthy addition to the Farvie triumvirate. (98) RAY JORDAN

STAFF PICKS 2024 - SARA TORRES

When you open a bottle of Domaine du Tunnel you know that you are opening the door of the purity and terroir. Cornas 2022 is delicate, with lighter body than other producers from the area but with all the intensity and complexity. On the palate is delicate, full of blueberries, graphite, raw meet and spices. If you close your eyes, you can see a purple and velvet cake in a glass of wine. Simply delicious. SARA TORRES

The 2022 Cornas brings another level of density and depth, and while tasting it, you feel like you're eating a raw piece of meat given its bloody, meaty, profile. Dense purple-hued, with notes of blueberries, roasted herbs, iron, and ground pepper, this beauty is full-bodied, has a silky, layered mouthfeel, fine tannins, and a great finish. It's a big, powerful Cornas, yet it still shows the focused style of the vintage beautifully. (96) JEB DUNNUCK

A well-balanced, velvety and well-rounded Cornas with aromas of wild berries, wild herbs and baking spices. It's medium-bodied with fine tannins. Balanced with a seductive core of succulent berries and a well-integrated structure of tannins on the palate. Focused and vivid, with some more peppercorns toward the finish. Try after 2026. JAMES SUCKLING

STAFF PICKS 2022 - ROSCOE HALLIGAN-ROSE


What a wine. It was a bit of an all-out brawl this year to see who would take out the big gong. I nabbed a couple of contenders on a recent weekend to examine them properly in the right kind of environment, under a tree in my yard with some mates and some nibbles. At the end There Can Be Only One and that had to be the Freddy Emile 2016. It's like they bottled The Quickening.
The power here is genuinely staggering. It's so compact and tense that it isn't entirely comfortable to taste at this early stage. Even with a few years under the belt it is almost completely primary with little or no indication of age showing amongst that youthfully imploded and inwardly focused fruit. Scintillating stuff. It practically hums with pent up potential. The length is unreal and it stains the palate with wildly mineral fruit. The palate is hugely impactful and it hits like a sock stuffed with pool balls being swung around. It is  a genuine WOW wine but it comes with a caveat, do not drink them too early. There is so much here just waiting to unveil itself. This is probably the best young version of this storied wine I have ever drunk. ROSCOE


Luminous straw-yellow. Complex, mint-accented aromas of nectarine, tangerine and powdered stone, plus a hint of licorice. Then bright, juicy and dense, showing outstanding acid-sugar balance and a penetrating juiciness to the stone fruit and herbal flavors. Finishes multilayered and very long, displaying noteworthy clarity and limy cut on the saline finish. Wine lovers everywhere know just how great Frédéric Emile Rieslings can be, but this looks to be a real knockout in the making; I absolutely love this wine's mineral drive and precision. It pulls off the neat trick of being both very ageworthy and also lovely to drink right now. I was happy to know that my palate was still working after an extremely long day of tasting when I told Pierre that in this vintage of Frédéric Emile I found more of the Geisberg than the Osterberg (in most vintages, the wine is a blend of 60/40 Osterberg-Geisberg, at times even 70/30, but this year it's more like 55/45). (97+) IAN D'AGATA, Vinous Media

The lemon-sherbet note here is really beautiful. Then comes a wealth of herbs, ranging from thyme to parsley, with a touch of sea salt, before turning to more floral nuances, such as cherries and almond blossom. The powerful acidity seems to surround the whole mouth and makes this almost like licking a lemon; the unmistakable dryness is all the more enjoyable because of it. Long and very elegant on the finish. STUART PIGOTT