Calvados, Champagne, Cabernet ...

A blend of 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Pinot Meunier, this extra-brut sparkling (3g/l dosage) is both rich and elegant. Golden in the glass, there's a lively shot of citrus lemon zest with subtle edges of caramel and toast. Nicely gourmet in style, this balances high acidity, zingy and vibrant fruit with a full body and firm structure. Soft perfumed florality is evident as well as grapefruit, lime and toasted brioche. Made every year to showcase the vintage, this is fresh with plenty of life ahead. decanter

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This is the first wine to display much wood influence and there is a mentholated top note to the peppery red and dark pinot fruit aromas. Once again there is very good volume and excellent vibrancy to the sleek and delicious medium weight flavors that display good balance on the sappy and dusty finish. This has enough development potential to reward up to a decade of cellaring.  BURGHOUND

I loved the touch of austerity and limestone drying quality in this wine. Quite serious and detailed in it's way. For the money, it's really smart Burgundy. MICHAEL MCNAMARA

The 2022 Pinot Noir leads with coffee grounds, black cherry, satsuma plum skin, Szechuan peppercorn, pink peppercorns, a hint of raspberry leaf tea and graphite. The wine smells savory while delivering all of these things. In the mouth, it is fine-boned but persistent and behaves in a gentle, splayed sort of manner through the finish. It's a very pretty wine, one that is quiet now, but I feel it will age slowly and elegantly in the cellar. This is a wine to drink now and to perhaps misunderstand in doing so. Or it's a wine to be patient with and reap the benefits after five or so years and beyond. I love the wine here, today, but I'd be cautious to recommend drinking your bottles too early—consider from 2027. ERIN LARKIN, Wine Companion

Herbal, high energy pinot noir with cherry, hedgerow, pepper/spice, and grape stem characters. Youthful wine that would benefit from bottle age. Quite complex with layers of floral, fruit and savoury flavours. BOB CAMPBELL, The Real Review

SWEET SPOT, OUTSTANDING. Here too moderate wood sets off the airy, cool and pure essence of dark currant, just turned earth and a whisper of crushed fennel. There is excellent underlying tension to the solidly delineation and mineral-driven medium weight flavors that deliver fine depth and persistence on the slightly more structured finale. This highly refreshing effort is going to need some patience to realize its considerable development potential. BURGHOUND

Deep bright purple-red colour leading into a stylish bouquet of sweet mulberry and other berry fruits, violets and cassis, succulent and mouth-filling, with masses of fine emery-like tannins that run the length of the palate adding authority, structure, length and refreshment to the aftertaste. Concentrated, superripe blackberry, cassis and mulberry flavours; oak tucked discreetly into the background. (98) HUON HOOKE, The Real Review

Really delivers as you might expect from this excellent concentrated and powerfully frame vintage in Margaret River. It’s dominant cabernet with smaller portions of merlot, cabernet franc and malbec. Typical of this wine since switching to biodynamics, it is bright and brilliant with a nervy tense energy to drive the palate. The succulent fruit is harness by fine chalky tannins and neatly played oak of which 55% was new. A wine of extraordinary elegance and poise with a few of many decades. (98) RAY JORDAN

Needless to say, Margaret River enjoyed another superb vintage with the 2022 season. Slightly cooler, Cullen report that it was a vintage of “immense perfume and texture”. The wine is a wonderfully vibrant purple in colour. The nose gives up plums, cassis, spices including nutmeg, chocolate, mocha, bay leaves, cigar box notes – think a freshly opened box of Cohiba Siglo VI – and near perfect oak integration. This is finely balanced and exhibiting immense length on a palate that sees the emergence of aniseed, mulberries and coffee beans. An alluringly supple texture with the silkiest of tannins, though plenty of them – there really is some grip here. This will easily sail through fifteen to twenty years in a good cellar. (98) KEN GARGETT, Wine Pilot

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Diana Madeline. The name evokes a lot of emotions, for what the woman stood for then and what the wine stands for now. The 2021 vintage equals 50 years of cabernet sauvignon plantings at Cullen. When released in early 2023, it was on what would have been her 100th birthday. It’s a wine that can come from nowhere else, so strong is its sense of place. Expect to swoon over aromas of roses, violets and mulberries doused in baking spices, a ferruginous quality as much as detailed if persuasive tannins. It’s complex, complete and structured. Gosh, what a wine. What a woman. The perfect combination. (97) JANE FAULKNER, James Halliday

Very deep, dark, impenetrable purple colour; a gorgeous fragrance of spicy superripe berries and a hint of licorice, super concentrated and almost essency. Traces of soy sauce and nori. The wine is highly concentrated on the palate; powerful, profound and rich, with masses of sweetly ripe berry fruit and no sign of herbal varietal touches. A profound and multi-dimensional cabernet that will richly reward long-term cellaring. It drinks superbly already but it would be sacrilege to open it before it's had more time to build the tertiary complexity that we know will come with time. (99) HUON HOOKE, therealreview.com

The 2021 John Riddoch Limited Release Cabernet Sauvignon is a brilliant wine. It is achingly intense yet is defined by its levity, which is not a common attribute in Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine expounds the virtues of the red gravel in which the fruit was grown, via its iodine and crushed shells, cassis and blood, sweet marrow and tobacco. It tastes so clearly of the place, which is a wonderful thing. The back palate swells with flavor, framed by the earth and the attuned oak. This is a tribute to the earth, an ode to it. Plentiful tannins bob along on the current of fruit. This will cellar interminably. It's up there in both quality and feel with the 2010, or so I think. 13.5% alcohol, sealed under screw cap. (98) ERIN LARKIN, wineadvocate.com

One of the best vintages in Coonawarra for many years. Little wonder this release of the John Riddoch is one of the best since the initial release from the 1982 vintage. Aromas of violets and red berry with a slightly cherry glaze character adding further intrigue. The palate is medium weight and refined but with tremendous power and persistence. A combination of hogsheads and barriques has been used to deliver the perfect level of oak. One of the best of these I can recall. (98) RAY JORDAN, rayjordan.com.au

"In one word - 'epic'.  Having just returned from ten days in Bordeaux tasting a vast number of youthful Cabernets, among other styles of wine, if this beauty had been slipped into the mix, it would have lounged somewhere near the top of the pile…John Riddoch is more akin to an elite Saint-Estèphe than a typical New World Cabernet…'21 JR is pure, stunningly plush, deeply fruited but seemingly weightless and incredibly detailed. It is a superb thoroughbred with impeccable balance, and it is as relevant for an old-world geek as it is for a new-world disciple. It is time that Wynns John Riddoch sat alongside the acknowledged world Cabernet greats, and this vintage will undoubtedly help make this dream a reality. (19.5/20) MATTHEW JUKE

The generous and rounded style of 2016 is translated eloquently in the restrained house of Deutz with a primary and expressive blend of apple, pear, strawberry and fig. A friendly vintage to drink young. TYSON STELZER

The nose of the Deutz Brut Millésimé 2016 reveals itself to us with a delicate medley of fruit and pastry notes (apricot and peach tarts) interwoven with white flowers and ground almonds. The palate is direct on entry and shows a lovely vibrant character. Discreet notes of perfectly ripe yellow fruit and flowers are in keeping with the aromas perceived on the nose. The mid-palate gains in complexity to reveal delicate aromas of lovely ripe almonds. The finish is beautifully fresh and mineral with an almost saline dimension to it.

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Attractive and complex nose of salted almonds, apricots, figs, raspberries and white chocolate. Tangy green apples, too. Fine bubbles here, with vibrant acidity and sleek, integrated layers. Dry and rich yet all in balance. Equal parts chardonnay, pinot noir and meunier, with about 30% reserve wines. Aged six years on lees. Drink now. JAME SUCKLING

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from younger vines that come mostly from the eastern side of the Route Nationale; these vineyards include Etelois, Jouise, Creux Brouillard, Grands Champs, La Justice, Les Crais, Reniard and La Platière

The 2022 Gevrey-Chambertin Symphonie marries intense dark fruit with strong mineral undertones. Spice, crushed rocks, lavender, sage and dried herbs open with a bit of coaxing. This is shaping up nicely. There’s a lot of wine here. ANTONIO GALLONI, Vinous.com

OUTSTANDING. A subtle but not invisible application of wood sets off equally fresh aromas of red currant, earth and a whisper of the sauvage. There is a beguiling sense of energy to the delicious if not particularly dense medium weight flavors that retain good detail on the notably more complex, structured and lingering finale that displays better overall balance. BURGHOUND

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From a blend of excellent sites across Gevrey with lower vine age – this notably shows vivacity and seductiveness
The 2021 Gevrey-Chambertin Symphonie possesses lovely inner sweetness and depth to match its understated personality. Dark cherry, plum, spice and leather build nicely, propelled by bright acids and notable aromatic intensity. This is showing quite well today. ANTONIO GALLONI

A notably more deeply pitched nose features notes of plum, wild dark currant and more prominent earth nuances. There is better volume to the delicious, round and equally seductively textured flavors that pack very good punch on the focused and balanced finale. This should also drink well relatively early on. BURGHOUND

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70%Cab. Sav. 30% Sangiovese.The 2017 Camartina is going to need a few years to open. That will be helpful as the wine ages, but it also means the Camartina does not have the opulence readers are likely to expect in this warm, dry year. Time in the glass brings out brighter tonalities of fruit and floral overtones that give a good idea to where the 2017 is heading. Readers should be in no rush here. ANTONIO GALLONI, vinous.com

Taking on a darker ruby hue, the 2022 Pinot Noir Wester Reach brings forward woodsy spice aromas, with notes of fresh cherries, pine, and peppery spices. Approachable on the palate, it offers ripe tannins, a supple texture, and a nice lift of freshness on the finish. It is a charmer for sure and is going to offer a wide drinking window over the coming 10-12 years. Bottled unfiltered (95) JEB DUNNUCK

… Bright, mineral and intensely vibrant, the 7 Crus is all energy. All the elements are so well proportioned. A blend of 90% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Noir, this captures all the house signatures with tons of energy and better overall balance than in some previous editions. White flowers, chalk and citrus linger. Dosage is 6 grams per liter. ANTONIO GALLONI

From a mix of their favoured sites in the north of Gevrey on clay rich soils from old vines that average 80 years of age - it runs deep.
The 2021 Gevrey-Chambertin Mes Favorites is a blend taken from sites in three sectors of the village, all planted on clay-rich soils. Deep and explosive, the Favorites shows terrific energy, naturally in the smaller-scaled size of the year. There's good depth to the old-vine Pinot fruit in this intriguing villages. ANTONIO GALLONI

A fresh combination of dark berries, forest floor, crushed fennel and a whiff of the sauvage serves as a very Gevrey-like introduction to the rich, caressing and palate coating medium-bodied flavors that possess both good volume and focused power on the mildly austere and sneaky long finish. This is very good for its level and in contrast to the prior two wines, one that should amply repay mid-term keeping. OUTSTANDING, BURGHOUND

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Delicate nose of chopped apples, apricots, raspberries, grapefruit, salted almonds and praline. Lovely freshness with salty and zesty undertones plus a hint of five spice. It’s medium-bodied with vibrant acidity and a gentle mousse. Somewhat understated with a soft yet tangy energy. 100% meunier. 70% base wine from 2015, with 30% reserve wine from 2013. 64 months on lees; disgorged November 2021 with 2g/L dosage. Drink now. JAMES SUCKLING

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50 yo vines, 100% chardonnay off clay/limestone soils. minimum aging of 8 years on lees before disgorgement with 8g/L.

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The insider's choice among Rapet's reds is the 2022 Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru Ile de Vergelesses, a medium to full-bodied, fleshy and seamless wine that's layered and velvety, evocative of sweet red berries, baking spices, rose petals and orange zest. WILLIAM KELLEY

Extra layers of ripe dark-cherry fruit compared with the elegant Bourgogne Rouge. Good density here with crispness allied with a purity of black fruit. Soft and enveloping light oak provides extra support. Really very fine and punches above its weight. ANDY HOWARD MW, jancisrobinson.com

An overtly floral, airy and cool nose offers up a variety of dark berries, herbal tea, earth and a hint of kirsch, all of which is trimmed in just enough wood to notice. The delicious tension-filled and beautifully textured flavors exude more evident minerality on the sappy, youthfully austere and equally serious finale. This also needs to develop better depth but the Rapet Ile virtually always ages well. OUTSTANDING, BURGHOUND

 

100% pinot noir from Clouet's 10 best plots, dubbed by Jean-Francois 'the golden square of Bouzy'; 50% 2006 fermented in Sauternes barriques; 50% solera of reserve wines; full malolactic fermentation; a symbolic production of just 1911 bottles; 6g/L dosage.

Clouet’s flagship is a radiant, golden silk-satin ballgown of ravishing complexity and breathtaking grace, a delicate high-heeled balancing act of refreshing poise in the midst of profound concentration. Its richness ventures to champagne’s outer limits of succulent white fruits of all kinds, grilled pineapple, honey and great complexity of brioche, nougat and butter. Celebrating a generous 50% reserve from solera, its rumbling maturity is proclaimed in hints of butterscotch, coffee beans and smouldering hearth. Just when you fear it’s all too much to behold, the vibrant energy of its 2002 base swoops into a finish defined by well-poised acidity and softly mineral, fine chalk texture. It holds its posture of tall, slender magnificence for minutes without ever dropping its determined gaze. TYSON STELZER, Champagne Guide

The NV Un jour de 1911... is another 100% Bouzy Pinot Noir with an ancient label design. The shining golden-colored cuvée combines ripeness, complexity and finesse with intensity and elegance on both the nose and palate. It's a powerful and rich yet very fine and balanced Champagne with great freshness and complex length. It is juicy and intense but also highly delicate, and its mineral tension and persistent finish make it a first-class wine for elaborate dishes. A great Champagne, with a label that doesn't give any more detailed information regarding vintages or disgorgement date, but we know it's always a 50/50 blend of three vintages (including one great millésime at least 10 years old) and reserve wines from a solera system. I tasted the wine as a Brut with Clouet's German importer in Bremen. You shouldn't drink it too early, as it would be a waste of its talents. STEPHEN REINHARDT, www.robertparker.com

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The 2012 Brut Spécial Club is gorgeous. Radiant and expansive in the glass, the 2012 offers up a compelling mélange of dried pear, apricot spice, chamomile crushed flowers and almond. There’s lovely complexity and nuance, as well as captivating balance between the freshness that is such a house signature with the natural radiance of the year. The 2012 can be enjoyed now or cellared for a decade, maybe more. It’s a gorgeous wine in every way. ANTONIO GALLONI, Vinous

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A Central Russian River Blend, the 2022 Chardonnay Chloe is a bright yellow hue and captures a wide spectrum of citrus with notes of orange, Meyer lemon, fresh pineapple, toasted spice, and a hint of almond through the mid-palate as well as a nice lift of citrus on the finish. It's a beautiful wine offering a richer tone through the range. (96) JEB DUNNUCK

Lemongrass, sage and apples with some pastry dough and flint. Medium-bodied with a pretty core of fruit and hints of minerals, flint and spices such as peppercorns and cloves. (95) JAMES SUCKLING

Disgorged April 2022. For a number of vintages, Aurélien Laherte has been experimenting with a sans soufre (zero sulphur) cuvée. In 2018 he cracked it with two barrels of Côte des Blancs juice, drawn from two Premier Cru terroirs in Vertus and Voipreux. Laherte noted that the key factors to the stability of vinifying in the absence of any additions were zero dosage and full malolactic conversion.
The third release of Laherte’s Nature de Craie is drawn from a single vintage (2020) drawn from parcels planted in 1960, 1965 and 1987. The word craie refers to the chalky soil of these terroirs, which lie on the lower slopes ensuring good exposure, in turn providing ripeness of fruit and no need for additional dosage. From hand-harvested and traditionally pressed fruit, this release was vinified in neutral oak barrels before aging on cork for 12 months. It was disgorged in April with no dosage. Bibendum

The 2022 Pinot Noir Estate Pomarium is fabulous. Broad, ample and resonant, the Pomarium shows the more extroverted side of the year. Black fruit, mocha, chocolate, incense, leather and dark spice soar out of the glass. This potent, brooding Pinot Noir packs a tremendous punch. It's the most extroverted Pinot in the Peay range and is absolutely fantastic in this tasting. ANTONIO GALLONI

Youthful ruby with a hint of light magenta, on the nose, the 2022 Pinot Noir Pomarium offers bright pomegranate lift, fresh pine needles, minty herbs, dried flowers, and a hint of licorice. It reveals vibrant tension and deeper concentration on the palate, with a long, earthy finish and notes of tea leaf. Its ripe tannins have a chiseled but elegant feel, and it’s fantastically sculpted. Drink 2026-2046. JEB DUNNUCK

The NV Blanc de Craie, 100% Chardonnay from vineyards in Aÿ and Louvois, is bright and finely sculpted, with terrific aromatic intensity, tons of nuance and all the vibrancy from the chalk-rich soils that give this cuvée its name. Citrus peel, white flowers, white pepper, mint and anise lead into the vivid, persistent finish. The Blanc is done entirely in oak, but it is neutral, so there is virtually no oak imprint at all in the flavors, only in the textural feel. One of the unique aspects of the Blanc de Craie is that the base vintage (2017 in this case) accounts for only 30% of the blend. Dosage is 6 grams per liter.  ANTONIO GALLONI, vinous.com

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The 2022 Pinot Noir Savoy Vineyard is juicy and expressive, which makes it a fine choice for drinking now and over the next handful of years. Succulent dark cherry, spice, new leather and lavender caress the palate, with plush, silky tannins that wrap it all together. There's lovely texture and resonance. The Savoy Pinot is rarely super-complex, but it sure is delicious. ANTONIO GALLONI

Donum has purchased the Savoy Vineyard, so 2025 will be the last vintage of this wine for Peay. A ripe medium red hue, the 2022 Pinot Noir Savoy Vineyard is woodsy and complex, with notes of pine needles, fresh sage, rose, wild cherries, and bright blood orange citrus. Medium-bodied, it’s elegant all the way through, with a linear feel, fine tannins, evenly balanced acidity, and a finish that floats gently away. Drink it over the next 15 or so years. JEB DUNNUCK

From the 2012 vintage. 80% chardonnay 20% pinot noir 6g/l dosage.

Tasmania has become such a hot-bed of awesome talent and great wine. As one of Australia's coolest wine growing regions pinot noir and chardonnay have excelled and sparkling wine still proves to be one of its crown jewels. These have been mainstays of the Apple Isle for some time and there looks this to be no stopping the tide of incredible examples of each making their way across the Tasman.

Fast-forward a generation and we are really starting to see what the verdant land can really turn out. In our mind some of the best Euro-styled rieslings are being produced there while the marginal climates and savvy wine-making are turning out some stellar textural pinot gris.

While pinot noir may reign supreme it is other reds like shiraz, that may, in time, prove to be something even more special. Time will tell and while it does we will happily sip our way through all that Tasmania's has to offer.

Bollinger continues its quest to highlight its Pinot Noir expertise with arguably the most exciting and focused wine yet in the PN series, focusing on the grand cru village of Verzenay from 2019 (although backed up with reserves from all around the Montagne de Reims and Grande Vallée, 25% of which comes directly from magnums). It weaves a beautiful line between the clear, long and ultra-fine Pinot of Verzenay, mineral and understated, the quiet power of the 2019 vintage, and the stunning complexity of reserves. Roast apricot, scorched orange citrus and soft raspberry fruits are backed up beautifully by toasty nougat, cocoa and dried pear ageing characters. It's a striking wine of persistent, tightly packed quality, holding terrific mid-term potential. DECANTER

The NV (2019) PN VZ is another terrific wine in this new range of Champagnes from Bollinger that is now in its fifth release. Exotic floral and spice notes play off a core of Pinot fruit in this captivating, mid-weight offering. Time in the glass accents the wine's inner sweetness and perfume. Pear, mint, jasmine and white pepper linger. In this release, the (2019) PN VZ is like a mini-Vieilles Vignes Françaises. It's an incredibly racy, sexy Blanc de Noirs. This release is based on 2019, with 50% reserve wines back to 2009. About half of the reserve wines were aged in magnum ANTONIO GALLONI

Something new in the range, the NV Champagne PN VZ19 is 100% Pinot Noir from Verzenay. It's assertive on opening, with aromas of raspberries, fresh baked bread, black cherries, violets, wet stones, passionfruit, and sweet citrus. It brings forward a good deal of intensity on the palate, with a lot of purity and a distilled feeling, its black cherry fruit gliding through a long finish with a saline flourish. This lovely wine has a lot to offer now but will improve with time and is going have 15 or more years of longevity. There's a fresh umami feel through this wine JEB DUNNUCK

The latest rendition of Bollinger's blended blanc de noirs bottling is the NV Brut Blanc de Noirs PN VZ19; it is based on the 2019 vintage, which represents 52% of the blend, and the village of Verzenay, which accounts for the origin of 40% of this bottling's components. 2019 is complemented by fully 48% reserve wines, and above all, fully a quarter derives from 2009; and it has the tension of Verzenay by Aÿ, Avenay-Val-d'Or, Tauxières and Mutigny. If all that sounds complicated, the wine's appeal is easier to see, as it offers up a demonstrative bouquet of yellow stone fruit, mandarin and praline, followed by a medium to full-bodied, pure and pillowy palate that's charming, even giving, but also attractively racy, concluding with a saline finish. It was disgorged with six grams per liter dosage. This doesn't tower above its 2018-base counterpart (perhaps unsurprisingly, as the percentage of reserve wines in this bottling is so high), but it does seem to be marginally the strongest iteration of this cuvée to date. WILLIAM KELLEY