Kamptal

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Sourced from two terraces and predominantly rooting in a rocky subsoil of paragneiss, Hiedler's 2021 Ried Gaisberg 1ÖTW Riesling is dense and spicy on the nose, showing ripe and concentrated bright fruit with subtle earthy notes. Round and elegant on the palate, with juicy richness, well-integrated mineral acidity and persistent ripe fruit flavors on the salty, grippy finish, this is still a young Gaisberg but with promising potential. 13% stated alcohol. Natural cork. STEPHAN RHEINHARDT, vinous.com 

Anyone who thinks that dry riesling is always lean and austere should dive into this deep pool of ripe peach and apricot to discover the grape's sensual side. Generous and creamy, but without any sense of weight, this combines ripeness with zesty freshness at the bright finish. Drink or hold. STUART PIGOTT

Gaisberg is often spectral, as if its flavors were placed in your hands by a ghost dressed as a bride. Part of that is present here, but there's also a quantum concentration of mineral, catapulted upward by a slingshot of acidity. The wine is so amazing it borders on the implausible.

The grip and the mere impact on the physical palate are impossible to resist. Yet there a higher octave of flavor that wisps up into the air like the vapors from frozen nitrogen. It's a concatenation of lemons and freesia; it alludes to basmati; it alludes, hauntingly, to white peaches and to blueberries, part of an incipience of sweetness that turns it from prose into music.

It's introverted but passionate, classical but not stodgy, and it is in every way wonderful. It almost isn't "Riesling" any more. It's just Gaisberg; I know it from Gobelsburg and Hirsch, and this site is quite particular, spectral and subtle; it whispers its strange tongue and you feel an opiate tingle - What is this wine doing to me? It smells a little like Champagne, this cool high chiming, this cryptic bliss. It is a very rare wine, that delivers as many poignant questions as this one does. TERRY THEISE

The 2020 Zöbing Ried Heiligenstein 1ÖTW Riesling is clear and crystalline on the nose yet initially rather discreet in its fruit expression. Intense, ripe apricot aromas emerge form the glass after a while. Crystalline, refined and elegant on the palate this, is a powerful, tight and firmly structured Heiligenstein that is still a bit caged and needs aeration or years to open up, refine and shine. The fruit is stewed and the texture accordingly rich and fleshy, whereas the finish remains crystalline, piquant and precise. This should be another gorgeous Heiligenstein in 10 years but in the Hiedler style. STEPHAN RHEINHARDT, vinous.com