Calvados, Nebbiolo

Screwcap. Three sources here. First, Massolino’s younger vines in Serralunga—in other words, declassified Barolo fruit. Then, Monforte’s Cascina I Maschi (Massolino credits this cool, chalky site with giving the wine lifted perfume and freshness). And finally, a parcel in Alba on lighter, sandy-clay soils, bringing generosity of fruit. The blend is roughly one-third from each of these areas, and there’s little doubt the sum of these parts brings even more finesse and early-drinking appeal to what has always been an outstanding Langhe Nebbiolo.

The 2022 is another gorgeous release from this label. It is a pure-fruited, pretty wine (suggesting strawberry, cherry, violet, anise) with ripe, chalky tannins and a terrific, perfumed finish spiked with graphite-like minerality. Following very gentle extraction, it aged in large Slavonian oak casks for 15 months, as opposed to 24-plus months for the Barolo wine. To call this a bargain is to grossly understate the case!

The Langhe Nebbiolo is crafted from a selection of 10- to 15-year-old vines in the Neive crus of Balluri, Albesani and Gallina. The wine fermented in stainless steel and then aged in oak botti for 12 months before being bottled unfiltered.

This is just a gorgeous, old-school rendition of Nebbiolo. Pale-coloured, medium-bodied, and loaded with red and blue fruits, hints of rosewater, red meat and leather, as well as plenty of powdery tannins. A Nebbiolo to open when you’re in the mood for a Pinot-weighted wine. Gorgeous.

Organic. This vibrant, perfumed Nebbiolo equally blends two sites that were both planted by Lalù. The first site, Roncaglie in La Morra, is a plot of land that Lara Rocchetti and Luisa Sala bought in 2015 and planted in 2017. Looking towards Verduno, this parcel faces east at an altitude of 400 metres. It’s a cool, windy, slow-ripening site. The second source is Bussia Bovi, a sub-Cru within Monforte’s superstar Bussia MGA. Lalù’s parcel is located at 320 metres above sea level, in the south of Bussia, between Bricco San Pietro and the area historically known as Bussia Arnulfo. The soils here are rich in sand, gifting a perfumed wine with supple fruit and great delicacy—the yin to Roncaglie’s yang. The fruit from here fermented as whole bunches and was raised in concrete to retain as much fragrance as possible. Both vineyards could be classified as Barolo (when the vines are of age), which says a great deal about the quality on offer here.

This Langhe Nebbiolo delivers more than most. The 2021 is a juicy, pretty Nebbiolo brimming with vibrant red and dark cherry fruit, anise, florals and some wood spice. In the mouth, the typical austerity of young Langhe is traded for svelte, integrated tannins and supple texture, all supported by mouth-watering energy.

San Stunet is the only Busso vineyard not in Neive, and instead is in the village of Trieso. Busso farms 1.5 hectares of vines, which sit at 400 metres in altitude on a steep gradient (16%). San Stunet soils are mostly yellow marl with a lot of limestone. The Busso vines lie on the southeast face of the ridge which delivers the deepest and most articulate Nebbiolo of this cru. The site is late ripening, usually picked 10 days after the estate’s other vineyards.

The winemaking is identical to the Albesani Vigna Borgese, but this has both more flesh and is punchier, suggesting both more tannins and acidity. Decant it and serve it in a Burgundy glass and you’ll be rewarded with a wonderful Nebbiolo loaded with character (dark cherry, honey, leather), depth and structure. It would ideally get 10 to 15 years bottle age, but if not, then lots of air.

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Just mid ruby. Intense nose of dried fruit, damson and rosemary. Lush fruit given an edge by the bite of energetic tannins. The fruit becomes more and more pure on the palate. Fantastic focus and juiciness on the finish. The spicy fruit is reminiscent of Monforte d’Alba but with added energy. Dynamic. WALTER SPELLER, JancisRobinson.com

Organic. Lalù farms just 0.5 hectares in one of Monforte’s great Crus, Le Coste di Monforte. With an average altitude of 420 metres, this south-facing vineyard is the highest and southernmost vineyard in Monforte. The site perfectly fits Lalù’s preference for finesse and openness. Although its 35-year-old vines lie parallel to the Ginestra and Mosconi Crus, Barolo from this vineyard is typically prettier and rounder than its neighbours—this being attributed to the unusually high content of sand layered throughout the region’s Sant’Agata marls.

This year, the Barolo was mostly destemmed and fermented in a tronconique oak vat. It spent one month on skins, including just over two weeks with the cap submerged in the juice. Aging was in large oak vats (from Austria and Alto Adige) for two years before eight months in concrete.This release is only Lalù’s second Barolo and explains why there is already so much excitement surrounding this producer.

Rose, violet, new leather and forest floor are just some of the aromas you’ll find on Cavallotto’s excellent 2019 Bricco Boschis. Full-bodied and still youthfully austere, it shows great aging potential, delivering juicy red cherry, wild raspberry, star anise and tangy mineral notes suggesting rusty iron, all set against a backbone of tightly knit, fine-grained tannins. Bright acidity lends balance and great energy. (97) KERIN OKEEFE

The 2019 Barolo Bricco Boschis is an absolutely gorgeous wine that needs plenty of air to open. Bright red-toned fruit, blood orange, rose petal, cinnamon, star anise and mint all grace this mid-weight, wonderfully expressive Barolo. It has been some years since I have tasted a Cavallotto Barolo with this kind of translucent old-school classicism. ANTONIO GALLONI

The 2016 Barolo Riserva Vigna Rionda is absolutely stunning. Deep and statuesque in bearing, the 2016 captivates all the senses from start to finish. A whole range of Rionda aromatics soars out of the glass. Silky and yet powerful, gracious and yet full of gravitas, the 2016 captures all the contrasts that make Barolo such an alluring wine. Rose petal, lavender, red/purplish fruit, spice and new leather lend striking nuance to this hypnotic Barolo from Massolino. ANTONIO GALLON,Vinous

Tasting this Vigna Rionda is such a sensual experience, with the complexity you’d expect from the top-level Barolo, showing hints of iodine, dark mussels, walnuts, dark stones to the fleshy dark cherries and plums. Then it turns a little “bloody,” minty and tarry on the nose. “Dark” and full-bodied with a massive amount of small-grained tannins seamlessly knitting the fruit on the palate, driving it to a very long, mineral finish. Very tight and powerful now, yet seductively rich and full of flesh, too. Shows lots of potential ahead. Much better from 2025. It should hold well for the next 20+ years. JAMES SUCKLING

Packaged with a special black label, the Massolino 2016 Barolo Riserva Vigna Rionda is only released in the best vintages. Showing the power and the determination of Serralunga d'Alba, the wine is redolent of dried berry, lots of rusty earth and fragrant red rose. These are the typical aromas of this vineyard, and this wine presents them with impeccable integration. To the palate, this Riserva remains open-knit, tightly structured and broad in scope. MONICA LARNER, The Wine Advocate