Kofererhof Grigio 2023

Some of the most exciting white wines of Europe are found in a tiny valley in the very far north of Italy's Alto Adige region, almost into Austria. In the relatively unknown Eisacktaler (or Valle Isarco, in the 'secondary' Italian language) an exceptionally talented young winemaker has been making textured and icily-structured white wines (considered by many to be the best examples in Italy) since they moved from grower only to bottle their first estate-made wine in 1995.

Master of these wines is Günter Kerschbaumer, proprietor of this tiny estate, a patchwork of little vineyards at 700-800 metres at the foot of the Dolomites. Each of these plots is a unique terroir and have been planted specifically to suit each variety.

Stylistically, these Eisacktaler whites - their DOCs are worded as either Alto Adige Valle Isarco or Sud Tirol Eisacktaler - are quite distinguishable from their highly-regarded and perhaps much better known cousins an hour back down the A 22 closer to Bolzano. To say these Eisacktalers are more Germanic is not unreasonable, but Alsatian is maybe more accurate. These are whites of even greater body and texture than the lower AA, with more subtle but more complex aromatics that are underpinned with a perception of minerality, some serious structure and a driving acid profile.

An intense and layered bouquet that is fruity and aromatic with tropical and orchard fruits These fruits are mirrored on the palate and there are also mineral notes reminiscent of the gravelly limestone the fruit is grown in. The wine has a rich palate and textural quality assisted by 8 months on lees with a portion of time in 30hl older oak. Less than 2gl residual sugar - spice and all things nice.