Jonathan Didier Pabiot Pouilly Fume Elisa 2023

Previously labelled Prélude and now named after the winegrower’s youngest, Elisa, this is the first Pouilly in the range. It’s drawn from the domaine’s younger vines, and shrewd yields and precise farming elevate this above the norm. The vineyards cover the gamut of Pouilly’s soil types from a selection of lieux-dits, including limestone, silica and flint. The grapes are pressed as bunches with some crushing for structure, and aging occurs in stainless steel tanks on the lees for eight to 12 months. Despite the price, this bottling is the domaine’s smallest. It’s also the most citrusy, oozing fleshy ripe lemon, grapefruit pith and flecked with florals and juicy white fruit, all neatly cosseted by chalky salinity. It’s a great window into the Pabiot style.