Guido Porro Dolcetto d'Alba 2024

Guido Porro remains one of the most underrated growers in Serralunga. ANTONIO GALLONI, vinous.com

They are traditionalist at heart employing large format oak, no fining or filtering nor any herbicides or pesticides in the vineyards. The approach across the board is thoughtful, deliberate and with a hands-off approach in the winery. The wines are all hand harvested with either concrete or stainless steel for fermentation. PWS

There are few clearer signs of an old-school Piemontese vignaiolo than his or her use of prized land not just for Nebbiolo but also for the region’s other traditional grape varieties like Dolcetto and Barbera. Guido Porro, for instance, farms all three within Barolo’s famed Lazzarito cru, a gorgeous amphitheater that stretches down from his winery in the village of Serralunga d’Alba.

When you stand on his deck, overlooking dramatic hillside vineyards, you can’t help but do a double take when Guido points out the Dolcetto vines whose grapes go into this bottling. There they are, at the top of the slope, peering down on acres upon acres of Nebbiolo destined for world-class Barolo. In such a prime position, the vines benefit from abundant and direct sunshine. Add to this the limestone-rich soils in which they’re planted and the warmer climate around Serralunga d’Alba, and it’s no surprise why this rosso shows a little more structure and heft than you find in Dolcetti from other parts of the Langhe. Evoking blackberries, earth, and stones, this red offers a great match for mushroom risotto or your favorite stew. TOM WOLF, Kermit Lynch Merchants